what glue for mating brass and plastic


NYSW F45

Active Member
I was working on my athearn sd40t-2 model yesterday. Got alot done. Shaved alot of the molded on pieces, filled in holes with green putty and added brass pieces to the shell. I use model master hobby cement. Now i thought the omi brass headlight i had glued was secure, till today. While working on something else it just fell off. Not only did it fall off, it left to nice indentations like it melted the plastic where it was mounted. But thats not my only problem. I've been trying to glue 2 brass pieces together with the same cement. They are the large intake grills for the long hood. One is a metal frame and the other is the mesh grill. Neither will stay together when glued. I even tried soldering and that didn't work.

Is there any kind of glue that is strong enough to hold the brass to the plastic with out it breaking off and for brass to glue to brass?
 
I have no idea what you are doing, but if soldering doesn't hold brass, your technique is faulty.

if these are new parts, clean everything well and use a hot, clean soldering iron with either acid flux or rosin core solder.

Touch a bit of solder to the tip, then apply the tip to both parts. When they are hot, touch the solder to the joint. The hot metal will melt the solder and it should flow between the parts. If you used acid flux, wash the parts again to remove any residue.

Solder is not usually used to make a mechanical joint as it isn't very strong, but there shouldn't be any strain on your intake grilles.
 
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As far as I remember, Model Master cement is a plastic cement. It WILL not hold anything but plastic as it melts the plastic togeather.

Use an epoxy, or CA.
 
i'll pick up some CA tomorrow. I was trying to find my epoxy but remembered it was just plastic epoxy.
 
i picked up this zap a gap ca glue. I asked the guy if it would bond brass and plastic he said yes. So im hoping it works. If not i picked up soem evergreen rectangular stock so i can make the piece instead.

Does anyone use crazy glue?
 
Super glue, glue whatever is on sale for lots of things.

Lowes or the like normally has a large selection of glues in the paint department. I came across Loctite super glue with a primer that I use on the stubborn things that wont stay. But our store has 100s of kinds of fast and slow setting glues to glue about anything. Is well worth looking and last time I was there it was much cheaper than what the family grabbed for me at walmart.
 
Barge Cement

The only adhesive I use for metal-plastic bonding is Barge Cement. It's a rubber type cement often used by cobblers for repairing shoes. It can be a little hard to find though. Ace Hardware seems to be the only major hardware chain that carries it, however they tend to stock it erratically. I've had good luck finding it at higher end shoe stores, and also any shoe repair business should have it. Then of course there's the internet where enough searching will find anything :)

Barge is a little thick, so it's best to get a glass jar (of the sort you would use to mix paint with) and thin the Barge with Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK) which is what I use, or a Lacquer thinner. MEK can be found most anywhere... I think I got mine at Home Depot. Anyway, dilute the Barge 50/50 with your thinner of choice and use a small cheap paint brush to apply it to whatever you want to adhere. The nice thing about the thinner is that it melts the plastic slightly, giving you a bit of the plastic "weld" that you get with straight up plastic cement. Check your mixture regularly though, I've found that under certain climate conditions the thinner tends to evaporate leaving you with straight barge again. Just add some more thinner though and you're good to go.

I generally apply the mixture to one surface and then attach, but some people recommend applying it to both surfaces and allowing it to dry, then lay down the part you're attaching, and brush straight thinner onto the joint, the thinner will be sucked into the joint by capillary action and will reactivate the Barge, sealing the bond very tightly (this method is particularly effective for laying down brass treadplate). For bonding larger or heavier parts (such as weights) straight barge (undiluted) works quite well.

Barge has a lot of advantages over CA and other options. For one thing it doesn't dry instantly, so you have the ability to position your part before it sets. It also won't get brittle, or cause parts to pop off as CA will over time and with exposure to air. It also won't craze the plastic.

Check out my blog: http://milepost15.wordpress.com. The F unit I'm building was assembled using Plastruct cement for the plastic-plastic bonds and Barge/MEK for all the plastic-metal and metal-metal bonds.
 



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