Weller 7200 soldering iron


M

Mister Bill

Member
I have a 30 watt or so soldering iron that I have been using with no problem. At some point, I thought I was upgrading by buying a Weller 7200, the kind that you pull the trigger to get heat. I put it away because I could not get it to even heat the solder. I don’t know how to use it. How long does it take for the point to cool off when you let off on the trigger? How much time do you have to allow for it to heat up to the proper temperature? If you are soldering track, about how long should I have to wait to solder a rail? Maybe I am not waiting long enough.

What is the benefit of having a trigger?

Bill
 
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Mister Bill said:
Ihave a 30 watt or so soldering iron that I have been using with noproblem. At some point, I thought I wasupgrading by buying a Weller 7200, the kind that you pull the trigger to getheat. I put it away because I could notget it to even heat the solder. I don’tknow how to use it. How long does it takefor the point to cool off when you let off on the trigger? How much time do you have to allow for it toheat up to the proper temperature? If you are soldering track, about how longshould I have to wait to solder a rail? Maybe I am not waiting long enough.

Whatis the benefit of having a trigger?

Bill
Click to expand...

Safety....
 
Hey Mister Bill,

Pull the trigger, wait a bit, touch your solder to the tip, if it melts quickly you are ready to go.

Like anything else the more you use it the more familiar you will be with it.
 
I suggest not even using a solder gun. To cumbersome, heavy and not consistant. Tips wear out to quickly and the tips are not normally small enough to work well for most model railroad projects. There are a number of excellent tutorials for solder techniques and equipment recomendations for model railroaders on You Tube. Also check out Fast Tracks (handlaidtrck.com)web site for solder techniques and equipment. I use a Weller WP 35 pencil and also use a Hako 936 solder station. I also use a 60/40 solder that is .025-.030 diameter solder with acid flux. Hope this helps.
Thanks
Wayne
 
I have that Weller Gun as well as a smaller one also from Weller. I bought the smaller gun due to the 7200 being too cumbersome to use (for me) I have found the smaller the Soldering Iron, the more manageable they are and the more control you will have, not that I am any where near an expert in soldering.

The idea of the trigger is a "Safety" measure, stops people from burning themselves and other things.

You may have an issue with your 7200, as mine heats up fairly quickly, it has been awhile since I used it so I can't tell you a time frame. I use a small 2 X 4 block of wood as a rest. To find out if the gun is hot enough, I touch the tip on the wood - if it burns the wood, it's hot enough :)

The gun also cooled down fairly quickly as well. I have gotten into the habit of putting mine to one side and leaving it for a good 15 minutes though, just to make sure.

Bottom line, use a smaller iron for soldering your track.
 
35tac said:
I suggest not even using a solder gun. To cumbersome, heavy and not consistant. Tips wear out to quickly and the tips are not normally small enough to work well for most model railroad projects. There are a number of excellent tutorials for solder techniques and equipment recomendations for model railroaders on You Tube. Also check out Fast Tracks (handlaidtrck.com)web site for solder techniques and equipment. I use a Weller WP 35 pencil and also use a Hako 936 solder station. I also use a 60/40 solder that is .025-.030 diameter solder with acid flux. Hope this helps.
Thanks
Wayne
Click to expand...

Keep acid flux away from your electronics. That being said, I agree. I find a trigger gun too bulky for model railroading. I have a 30 watt iron, a soldering station from Micro Mark (the cheapie, not the Weller, but it works just fine thank you!). I also use resistance gear for metal to metal work on brass models.
 
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The "chisel" tip can be filed down to make a smaller heating surface too!

I have found that soldering paste, mixture of solder and flux together, is much more precise and makes cleaner looking joints. You don't end up with blobs of solder everywhere.
 
Oddly what espee just posted were the two things I was going to add. I will briefly add acid flux on electronics has always been a big no-no. The corrosive effects will deteriorate them in the long term. Clean, clean, clean before soldering is best. There are non corrosive fluxes out there that work well. If you don't like the gun, I suggest a good stand for your iron. I have one with a magnifying glass and some clamps for small work. Very handy! Hope this helps.
 
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