Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread


logandsawman said:
Thanks, Tom. I was going to do what you said, exactly what I was thinking, but wife persuaded me to wait. I guess it didn't hurt but next time I will move forward without asking the wife -- kind of a bad habit I got in, trying to include her in my model tasks. Honestly, she is not that interested but does sometimes does feign interest .

Worst part is when she wants to touch stuff on the layout. She is like an 8 year old with some super clumsy fingers. I cringe everytime she reaches in there.

Dave LASM
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Terry is my most ardent supporter and my worst critic. I will occasionally ask her to look at something for an opinion. But, sometimes she will pop into the studio and tell me something about what I am weathering. Usually that she’s not feeling it, her words for it’s not looking good!
 
Has anyone tried the Atom paint line from Ammo by Mig?

Has anyone tried the Ammo Dio Drybrush paint line?

I’ve started using the Ammo Rail Center paints, the streaking brushes, the oilerbrushes and really like them. So thought I’d ask about the above paint lines.

My normal paints for custom work is the Vallejo series of Aryclics, Model Air, Game Air, Model Color and Panzer Aces. I use Tamiya Arcylics for my base coats. But, for my own stuff I use Abteilung502 oils over a base coat of Tamiya.

I feel I’m getting I tired of the same type of results from the Aryclics

I’m looking for something different than oils and have been experimenting with the Ammo Rail Center. Watching videos on You Tube all say they are just wonderful, super, tremendous paints. The usual propaganda

Any thoughts as the Dio Drybrush stuff really intrigue me
 
It’s May and I can ship again. These have been done for awhile. Heading to Chicago

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Sorry folks for posting later than I wanted, but I've been busy with work and getting ready around the house for summer!

I just finished up on side 2 of this car, I might have pushed it a little harder on this side!

All in all, I'm happy with it. Trying to get into the knack of hand painting graffiti, man is it tuff. But starting small and getting larger as I progress might be the way to go!

Cheers!
Z
 
Hi
CPR Zee said:
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Sorry folks for posting later than I wanted, but I've been busy with work and getting ready around the house for summer!

I just finished up on side 2 of this car, I might have pushed it a little harder on this side!

All in all, I'm happy with it. Trying to get into the knack of hand painting graffiti, man is it tuff. But starting small and getting larger as I progress might be the way to go!

Cheers!
Z
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Z, we keep no timetables here. Post along your weathering process anytime you want, or later! While the 2 CN covered hoppers have never been seen in this thread before they were weathered a few years ago. The modeler that commissioned them lost interest in model railroading before they were done told me to keep them. I was doing publicity shots and a modeler in Montreal saw them in the background on my FB page. Similar to the inquiries I’ve had on the 2 graffitied reefers in the background of the pictures I posted here
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These went to the post office this morning
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Even when faded it was still to pink! Tamiya white thinned 20% paint and 80% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA 91% concentration) on 1st 3 sprays. Let dry a couple days. Then a matte clear coat of Tamiya xf86. Decided with the client to fade some more, 30% white to 70% IPA. 2 sprays and we called it good

The roof is Vallejo Air, dark earth 50/50 mix thinned with water

Side sills and front and back panels (not shown) is a USA Dark Earth from Vallejo Air thinned 50/50 with water and at PSI pressure of 16. The matte clear coat is again Tamiya xf86

In person it really looks good, every Proto picture showed graffiti and tags but this client does not like either!

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This was faded with Tamiya xf 2 (?)White. The mix was 20% white, 10% xf86 flat clear and 70% Tamiya x20a thinner.

The side body sill grime is Vallejo Air dark earth brushed on as a wash maybe 40/60 mix with water. I eye balled it the mixture

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Fade coat on this car is Vallejo Air Sand applied by brush as a strong wash 50/50 thinned with water with a few drops of IPA mixed in. A few scratches and spots are from Panzer Aces dark rust, applied 100%. The roof and the body of the car was airbrushed using Vallejo’s light orange rust thinned with Vallejo thinner 90% paint 10% thinner. The kick up spray on this car is NATO Brown straight no thinner with the air brush set at 21 psi

The matte clear coat was VMS matte clear varnish only applied to seal the car. There are no other matte clear coats on this car.
 
Ok, I’m kind of bored and have mentioned it few times. A client sent me a project that I decided to tackle today. A KIT, yep a KIT.
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I do follow instructions (usually) for kits and have on this.
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Previously cut off the sprue parts (someone else) were repaired. The balance of the parts were cut off the sprue. Gluing has begun and I should pictures tonight
 
TLOC said:
Ok, I’m kind of bored and have mentioned it few times. A client sent me a project that I decided to tackle today. A KIT, yep a KIT.
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I do follow instructions (usually) for kits and have on this.
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Previously cut off the sprue parts (someone else) were repaired. The balance of the parts were cut off the sprue. Gluing has begun and I should pictures tonight
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Ahhh yes.... the kit, kind of brings a tear to my eye. Not really! Been there, I've assembled 3 Intermountain hopper kits years back and a 4th is still waiting in the que for it's turn.... which will probably never happen. They almost put me in the nut house!🥴
Have fun Tom!

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CPR Zee said:
Ahhh yes.... the kit, kind of brings a tear to my eye. Not really! Been there, I've assembled 3 Intermountain hopper kits years back and a 4th is still waiting in the que for it's turn.... which will probably never happen. They almost put me in the nut house!🥴
Have fun Tom!

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It wasn’t bad at all. I’m letting the glue dry and will put the body on the frame tonight. Trying to decide if I weather this (as a surprise gift) one or not. Maybe a nice light gray dust. Private road name that the friend purchased. Midland Roads is from Tony Koester’s (former editor of RMC and a contributor still at MRR magazine) layout!
 
PayPal had a lucrative weekend on my behalf. This morning at 9 I will be heading out to the Post Office. I try to avoid the 7 to 8:30am rush… The more I can ship between now and noon Wednesday the less the daughter has to do for me this month

Just as a FYI. I will be away from the bench most of May and will post barely any new stuff if at all. I am not abandoning this thread and I will still check in and comment. So keep posting your works, new materials, comments, advice and constructive criticism

I will finish ( if successful) before flight time Wednesday, a post of the roofs of 2 diesels (see locomotive continuous…) as I experiment with oil shaders (via air brush) from Ammo by Mig


enjoy
 
C&OMtnMan said:
Does this mean you’ll be airbrushing oil paints, then? If so, I will be keenly interested in your learnings.
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From what I have read on these SHADERS they are formulated for air brushing. Dry time is 24 hours though and I cannot locate my old cake cover I use to prevent dust from settling on models. I may just put the diesels into the dehydrator for the 24 hours and NOT turn it on. I do want to test that 24 hour thing.

Good or not, I will post what I discover

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These are more like an ink and have no smell at all, still testing
 
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Nothing to report on the Ammo by Mig Shaders. Seems a close family friend has won a Pulitzer Prize and between texts and phones the family has gone crazy. Planning a party! That and I have to dig out my airbrushes that are packed away, somewhere.

What I did was read the bottle. It’s Arcylic based, not oils but takes 24 hours to dry and until its fully drive is removable with water. Basically between the instructions on the bottle and of the 5 videos I watched it’s a glorified Arcylic wash. No need to thin it per the You Tube videos but the bottle says to thin it with water
 
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