Upgrading Wheels, Trucks, and Couplers.


N

nickf06gli

Member
I am semi new to the hobby and was looking into doing a few things to my existing rolling stock, I want to change all the wheels to steel wheels as I have a few cars that ride really good on them, but can't seem to figure out the sizes, is there a chart as what goes onto what? Also same thing with couplers in trucks?

I think this is a question we all could benefit from, also what is the best brand (in your personal opinion)
 
The Kadee website has everything you need to know about couplers. Since they are the best brand I would go there for both info and products. As for wheels, I'm not sure if any one brand stands out, but if you're in HO scale you'll have to determine between 33" and 36" wheel sets, which will depend on how your couplers line up vertically on your track. Coupler boxes and spacers might come into the equation as well (Kadee again is the place for that).

http://kadee.com/
 
Generally 33" wheels were for cars of 70 to about 90 tons. 36" wheels would be used on cars of 100 tons or so. The 36" wheels would be also used on passenger cars.
 
wagonmaster said:
I believe that the proto 2000 trucks where one of the best when I was last in railroading.

Tim
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Tim, I think that the trucks from Tahoe Model Works are currently the best. You look at a car with these in them, and they move!:D

But IMHO, nothing can beat the old Central Valley trucks.
 
For my Santa Fe (1958 era) HO layout here's what I use:

Freight Cars
Intermountain 33'' Metal Wheels
Kadee #158 Scale head whisker couplers

Passenger Cars
WalthersProto 36'' Metal Wheels (flat back)
Kadee #118 Shelf whisker couplers (modified per Kadee instructions to type H coupler)

Locomotives
All freight locos have Kadee #158 Scale head whisker couplers

All passenger locos have Kadee #118 Shelf whisker couplers (modified per Kadee instructions to type H coupler)


I paint all freight car and loco couplers Poly Scale Roof Brown. I paint most of my passenger car and loco couplers with Poly Scale Stainless Steel. I paint heavyweights and passenger steam loco couplers Poly Scale Roof Brown.


I use the trucks that come with my models. But I do use the Micro-Mark Truck Tuner on them.
 
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Cjcrescent said:
Generally 33" wheels were for cars of 70 to about 90 tons. 36" wheels would be used on cars of 100 tons or so. The 36" wheels would be also used on passenger cars.

Carey's reply to him -[Tim], I think that the trucks from Tahoe Model Works are currently the best. You look at a car with these in them, and they move!:D

But IMHO, nothing can beat the old Central Valley trucks.
Click to expand...



Say Nick, Per what Carey stated above, as well as depending on what era your modeling, not only did the older lighter equipment use lighter wheels code 88, the width of the tire that road on the rail head, in either 33" & 36" but the wheel sets were Ribbed-Back [Cast Iron] which existed on private roads til interchange regulations about 1958 required smooth back wheels sets [Rolled Steel] be used where cars would change from one line to another in the delivery process.

For the earlier lighter weight cars the code 88 looks so much more prototypical especially on my lighter weight rail.

Kadee offers both types and I have them available if your interested. They can also make up trucks with the Ribbed backed wheels too if requested. They are very congenial that way.

As I model the 1890's to about 1910 I'm changing my standard 110 smooth back wheels out to the code 88 Ribbed-Back. Most of the kits come standard with the code 110 tread which is appropriate for most cars as they became larger in about the mid 50's I think but not positive about the date.


As far as the trucks go I'm not familiar with most that Carey mentioned except the Central valley ones and they are very good but I don't think they are still available. Kadee seems to have some very decent trucks too though.


Because of the early time period I'm modeling as well as the fact I want the equipment to look well used most of the coupler, draft boxes and wheels and axels etc are usually painted using Floquil Rust from their weathering pens sets. These are also available. A bottle of paint could easily be used too.

Hope this info helps?
 
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