Turn Radius


Regardless of how you create the curves, they must be of consistant curvature throughout the bend. I personally prefer sectional track for anything tighter than 24-inches. The other thing is that you should use flex track at the beginning and end of each curve in a transition.

So far as what locos and rolling stock to use, I will grant that the longer (and most of the modern locos are longer) equipment will have a tougher time of negotiating tight radius curves and turnouts. As I model the '50's and '60's era, I only have one diesel that needs to take the tight curves. It appears to do it okay. With earlier six-axle diesels, most of which are older Athearn products, I removed the wheels from the center axles, but left the axles and gears within the truck sets. You can't really tell unless you get right down to track level and have a light behind the engine. Similarly, I have kitbashed 2-10-2's, 2-10-4's and a 4-8-2 that negotiate 18-inch radius curves and #4 turnouts with ease. These were made from Mantua/Tycho 2-8-2's. A 4-8-4 was kitbashed from Mantua Pacific 4-6-2's. The trick is to use blind drivers (which came with the original kits or r-t-r locos) on all but the end drivers. You also need to shim the end axle bushings between the frame and the bushings with a .015" shim, and shim under the blind driver axles, between the axles and the cover plate with the same thickness shim. The connecting rods are jointed at each wheel, so they will compensate for the difference in the height of the drivers. What this does is lift the blind drivers off the rails so they don't catch on the outside rail coming out of the curve. Lead and trailing trucks may need to be modified and/or the inside of cylinders, frame, etc, may need to be cut away slightly to allow the trucks enough movement.

The other thing is to compromise on some of your equipment length. While I have no trouble running full-length 85-foot passenger cars, I make considerable use of 72-foot Athearn and Con-Cor "shorties", and stick pretty much to 40-50 ft. freight cars. The shorter cars take up much less room, so in a train, I can get the illusion of running farther.

Green board all the way!
 
There is no disagreement about being able to bend flexible track down to tight radii, so long as you use the appropriately sized trains such as trolleys and the short wheelbase stock shown in the photos above. Some industrial railways and tramways are like this in real life.

What I did say was this may be a problem with larger locomotives, implying that a (border-line, hypothetical) larger locomotive my find it easier to get around an 18" set track curve than flexible track bent to 18" radius. Take another look at the photo with the graduated square. If the ties were not twisted, they would all be pointing at the corner of the square. I'm not saying that it is wrong or doesn't work, just pointing out possibilities for fine-tuning. The rustic track is probably more realistic for some industrial models!

OK, what I meant to say was that I had experiened none of the gauge narrowing you described, and unlike Tooter, I just tacked mine down on homasote. Not saying this isn't possible...keep your handy dandy NMRA gauge nearby when doing this, but It has not been a problem for me. PS: trolleys and critters are not immune to these problems. Being very light, they'll jump right off the rails if there is a problem.

Six axle diesels and 4-8-4's through 18" radii are an ongoing problem for many of us who like the big stuff but don't have the necessary real estate. :D
 
Trailrider:

You are absolutely correct about consistant curvature, regardless of radius. Another issue is the so called verticle curve which is due to uneven roadbed and sub roadbed, but resuts in undesired uncouplings and occasional derailments.

Building a home layout is a compromise. I am in the process of revising my layout to extend the run. I plan on retaining my current main line minimum of 26" which allows me the freedom to use the somewhat larger engines and cars introduced in the late 1960s, as well as short trains of Walthers passenger cars. If I were to increase the size of the curves to 30"+ radius, I would seriously limit what I could do within my allocated space.

Clear Block
 
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I run ho bachman ez track witch is 18' R with a athern dash 9 44 cw it runs pretty good i recomend athern BUT NOT BACHMAN FOR LOCOS
 
You're going to find good and bad units in any product line from my experience. I have a cheapo Bachman GP40 and 2 Spectrum Dash 8's that I would rank in my top 5 runners.
 
Take another look at the photo with the graduated square. If the ties were not twisted, they would all be pointing at the corner of the square. I'm not saying that it is wrong or doesn't work, just pointing out possibilities for fine-tuning. The rustic track is probably more realistic for some industrial models!

Hi Alien, :)

The "staggered ties" look on that little prebent curve is because there are alternating connecting tabs on the Flex track which keep alternating ties from coming closer together. So you end up with parallel pairs with "pie shaped" spaces between them. The tabs can be removed from the underside with an Exacto knife to even everything out, but I like the unevenness.;)

Greg
 
I'm running 18" radius curves due to tight space. My locos are all GPs (38 & 40s) and it works well for me. I run nothing over 60 scale ft and have never had an issue.
 



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