The Union Pacific Soggy Bottoms Subdivision (HO scale)


Thanks for the answers. I'm planning on doing the benchwork in 32"x 48" sections (1/3 sheet of plywood) with 1"x4" framing. I will probably use 48"x48" corner modules to allow my main line to loop back. First module will be primarily an industrial switching module. I'm going to try and take pictures and post them as the work progresses.
 
I have been working on the river scene today. It's a good day for it, since it's only 13 degrees right now (3:17 PM as I type this). It was down to 11 at 8:30.
I installed an Atlas re-railer into the track just before the liftout to catch anything before it heads onto the bridges. These will be disguised as a road crossing. Yes, I know: right into a wall. Hey, ya does what ya gots to!;)
The feeder wires to this section, which is isolated to prevent long drops to the floor, were originally underneath this area of track, so they will be relocated behind the re-railers. The track joiners will be soldered as well.
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Two pieces of older flex track have given their rails for this project. Let us have a moment of silence in memory of their sacrifice............... OK, now that that's over: I used the rails to make a single rail across both bridges. Each bridge kit came with two rails that slide into the bridge, but that would have meant a rail joiner between them. I didn't really like that idea, so I used two older pieces of flex track for their rails. I slid the rails into one bridge and then into the next. It makes a surprisingly strong assembly.
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I used a narrowed down strip of .030" styrene on each side of the Warren truss bridges to fill in the I-beam web and give a place to glue the ends of the deck bridges to. You can see the white in the photo. I'll touch that up with some pewter gray to match the bridges. Gluing the bridges together REALLY stiffened them up! You can also get a better look at how the rails cross the bridges seamlessly.
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I used a thin cutting blade on my moto tool and cut through the rails on the liftout.
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The feeder wires you see will be un-soldered as all the track on the liftout will be replaced when the finished scene is integrated into the layout. I will be installing new track as though the liftout were permanent, and then re-cutting it to ensure correct alignment.

Next I removed the track and roadbed from the area where the bridges will be and marked the cut lines on the liftout. I originally thought about trying to carve the end abutments in place, hence the reason for the second line 1/2" in from the the outer lines, but then decided I would make the abutments off layout and fit them in. The reason for that is that the deck bridges will have to have an angled slot carved into their abutments for the sloping beams to nest into.
Also if I screw one up, it'll be easier to fix.:eek:
The plan for the middle pier was always to carve it off layout to fit the bridges, then cut it to height. This is looking at the 'back' of the liftout. When operating, I will be on the other side.
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Next step (gulp) was to cut up the liftout. I drew what I wanted the river to look like, then cut it out. I use a saber saw with a fine metal cutting blade set at an angle to give the banks a little slope. I think it came out alright. (Whew!)
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Here is the bridge assembly set in place to give an idea of what this will look like. This is looking at the front of the scene, as it will appear during operations.
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The plan for the river is to have the actual river about half as wide as the cut out. The other half will be some cork to represent a sandbar, on which will be some fishermen camping out. I don't think I'm going to go for a glowing fire, though, as this will be a daylight operation. There will be a walking trail carved into the bank from the sandbar to the top, where there will be a parking area.
My original plan was to have the trains, and remember that operating direction will be from left to right in this pic, first cross the deck bridge, then the truss bridge. But then I got to thinking (yes, dangerous I know) that since the town of Soggy Bottoms is going to be to the right of this scene, it would be more logical to have the camping scene and access road on that side. That means the sandbar will be on the right. You may be wondering why I don't just have two back to back deck bridges. Notice how far down they come? I wanted to have a truss bridge to allow clearance for river traffic. Since the sandbar is going to be on the right, that means the river, and the truss bridge, will now be on the left. So the trains will first cross the truss bridge, then the deck bridge. Need to be adaptable.
I have some 5/32 cork tiles left over from a different project, so they will become the sandbar. I will use two layers and bevel the edge for a slope.
The black cable thing you see is the power connector for the liftout. I had a couple sets of 1/4" headphone jacks (male and female) laying around so I decided to use them to power the liftout. Since the track 1 foot before the liftout is electrically isolated, I am using 1 set of jacks to take power from the main bus under the layout over to the liftout using 16 gauge stranded wire for flexibility. This goes to a terminal strip on the liftout to which there are feeders going up to the bridge track, and also another set of 14 gauge stranded wires going back out via the other set of headphone jacks to the isolated section of track before the liftout. When the liftout is not in place, a locomotive cannot get near the edge of the chasm. And if the liftout is in place, but the jacks are not plugged in, same thing. It may not be purdy, but it works and it was free!:D

Now I need to sand all the old adhesive and foam out of the riverbed. I'm going to wait for a warmer day and do that OUTSIDE!
I appreciate all the kind words from everyone. I wish I had more time to devote to this, but after 10 hour days of doing my job, the weekend is the only time I have the energy! Knowhutimean, Vern?
 
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Thanks for the answers. I'm planning on doing the benchwork in 32"x 48" sections (1/3 sheet of plywood) with 1"x4" framing. I will probably use 48"x48" corner modules to allow my main line to loop back. First module will be primarily an industrial switching module. I'm going to try and take pictures and post them as the work progresses.

I look forward to seeing your progress. I notice you are in Maryland. Next time you're in Baltimore and a police helicopter flies over, wave to the pilot for me. It might just be my cousin!
 
Looking really good Flyboy. Are you going to cast some stone retainer walls for the vertical sides under the bridge? I like the cut out of power for when the liftout is not in position , that's a very good idea . I may have to steal that one !!!
 
I hadn't really thought about retaining walls. I'm not sure, given the contours, how that would work. Might have to study some on that.
 
I've been workin' on the raaailroad! (It's probably a good thing you can't hear me sing. I've been told I should sing tenor...... tenor twelve miles from anybody else.)
I have been doing some work on the river scene. I sanded the riverbed down flat, not worried about the adhesive still on there. Then I cut a couple of cork squares for the sand bar. I'm going to use two layers and bevel them down to a nice slope.
The riverbed sanded and the bank cut out of the first cork square.
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I drew the outline of the river on the cork sheet
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and cut it out with a sharp razor knife.
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I looked online for suggestions as to what to use to glue cork to plywood, and flooring adhesive seemed to be a popular choice. I have no flooring adhesive and didn't want to buy any for this small a project, so I used Liquid Nails construction adhesive.

I had to run an errand, so I stopped at Menard's on the way home and bought a 1"x6"x4' piece of aspen to make the bridge abutment and center pier from. I routered a a 3/4" groove 3/8" deep across the board, then used the table saw to cut it so the groove was .160" deep from the top of the abutment. This will be the ledge that the truss bridge will sit on. I cut the Homasote and foam to 5-1/2" wide, 2-3/4" on each side from a center point between the tracks. This centers the abutment between the tracks. I still need to cut the opening farther back to enable the bridge assembly to fit between the banks. It's also not perfectly square with the end of the liftout since when I line up the rails where they should be, the truss isn't quite square with the abutment ledge. But I'll fix that.
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If I measured everything properly, when the roadbed and track are installed the tops of the rails will match correctly. The roadbed will extend slightly onto the abutment. I think I still need to cut the abutment down a little.
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The truss abutment needs to go back about 1/4" to enable this end to fit.
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The second layer of cork waiting to be glued down. Once I get the deck bridge abutment made, I will cut out the cork to enable it to sit on the plywood.
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It's getting there.
 
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I spent my Saturday afternoon weekly work session (seems that's all I get anymore :( ) working on the abutments. I cut out the sandbar where the deck bridge abutment will sit, so it looks like it's sunk into the ground. The tricky part was how to carve the angled slots into the wood to inlet the deck trusses. I wanted the trusses inlet all the way to the back of the abutment, so I held the abutment in place alongside the truss and drew a line for the needed angle. Then I placed the bridge on top of the abutment and marked the spacing for the trusses. I drew a line across the face of the abutment at the angled line I drew earlier. This gave me the depth of the cut.
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I measured the angle and set my table saw to the same angle.
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I then cut a piece of 2x4. I drilled a pilot hole through the abutment and screwed it to the 2x4. I used the 2x4 a push stick to cut the angled slots on my band saw. Here you can see the angled line giving me the cut angle needed for the bridge trusses, and the band saw blade behind it.
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I cut the lines on the band saw and chiseled the cuts out with a narrow wood chisel.Then I placed it on the lift out to see how close I'd come. Not too bad I think.
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I will clean up the cuts with a file to smooth them out. I wanted the rail tops to match up with what is already there. I think I came pretty durn close!
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I also cut the opening for the truss bridge abutment back about 1/4". It appears I have some back filling to do now.:eek:
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The rail heads will match up pretty well with roadbed and rail when I get that far. (Sorry for the blurry picture.:eek:)
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I may start the center pier tomorrow. Looks like a bit of support is needed there.
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Looking really good , you seem to think things thru well before you do them ( or you are just a lucky gut :) ) and it shows in the finished product . Funny you say you don't have much time anymore . It seems that everybody has slowed down a bit , atleast going by the posts on the board , and this is supposed to be train season !!!!!
 
Looking really good , you seem to think things thru well before you do them ( or you are just a lucky gut :) ) and it shows in the finished product . Funny you say you don't have much time anymore . It seems that everybody has slowed down a bit , atleast going by the posts on the board , and this is supposed to be train season !!!!!

Thank you for your kind words. I try to think it through, but sometimes it doesn't go the way I planned it! They say that the difference between an amateur and a professional is that the professional knows how to hide his mistakes!:eek:
I may get an additional day to work on things this Tuesday, depending on what the weather does. The forecast is for 6-8" snow with 40 mph+ winds. If we get those conditions, they'll just have to get by without me at work. I'd like to live long enough to see my son leave home!
 
OK, I have a question for you bridge experts out there: Were bridge piers ever sunk straight into a river bed, or were they always built on a foundation? The center pier for the bridge will be a combination of the two abutments. The truss bridge beams will rest on a ledge, while the deck bridge side will be inlet the same as the bank abutment. In order to make the base, I will need to use a 1x8, which I don't have and would rather not have to purchase just for this. I could use a piece of 3/4" plywood, but I don't want to have the ply layers showing through the paint. I could sink the pier straight into the river, but if it was never done that way I'd rather make a base for it.
What to do, what to do...........:confused:
 
Well, If I did not have a 1x8 piece to use .. I would:
1. Cut a thin piece of wood to glue to the ends of the plywood - sand and wood fill so when painted would look like a solid piece.
2. Smear some drywall mud on the ends and sand smooth.
3. Glue 2 pieces of 1x4 together.
 
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And I just realized something else: I don't have to cut across the board, I can cut down the board! In that case, a 1x2 would work, and I have some of those.
Oh, where, oh, where has my brain gone today?
Oh, where, oh, where can it be?:confused:
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Started making the center pier for the river. The truss bridge will sit on a ledge 3/8" wide, while the deck bridge trusses will be inlet into the pier in the same fashion as they were into the bank abutment. To make the ledge 3/8" wide, I used the same technique as on the bank abutment. I used a 3/4" router bit set to a depth of 3/8". I made a cut across the pier, resulting in a ledge 3/8" wide.
Many people are intimidated by routers. I must admit I was until I learned how to use one. One of the first things I learned is that is VERY difficult to make a straight cut freehand. It is imperative to use a straight edge to guide the router to ensure a straight cut. I made a very simple jig consisting of a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood for the base, two pieces of scrap 1x4 for the sides, and a piece of scrap 1x4 for the straight edge. To ensure the edge is straight, hold the piece vertically up against something such as a door frame and check for light between the piece and the door frame. Then turn the piece around and check the other side. If you see no light on either side, the piece is straight.
I screwed one piece of 1x4 to the plywood, then positioned the piece to be cut. Then I screwed the other piece of 1x4 to the base on the other side of the piece. I held the router along side the 1x4 and determined where to position the straight edge to give me room to make the cut. I screwed one side down with a single screw, then used a framing square to ensure that the straight edge was square to the jig. I then screwed down the other side. I used two screws on each side. You want to be sure that all screws are sunk below the surface of the wood to prevent your router from snagging on them.
See those safety goggles and ear muffs? USE THEM!! Routers make a very loud high pitched whine (much like an irate two year old) and they make a lot of saw dust. I also use ear plugs in addition to the ear muffs.
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Keeping the router firmly against the straight edge, I made the cut.
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The router bits i have aren't the greatest, but they work alright.
So how straight was the cut? In this pic, the lip of the framing square is in the router cut laying against the edge it's entire length. This is looking down the side of the piece of aspen that the cut was made in. Looks pretty square to me!
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I measured the deck trusses and determined that the ledge needed to be .367" from the top of the pier. I will cut this on the bandsaw.
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I took a piece of pipe and zip tied to the bridges to ensure level when I measure for the height of the pier. I need to cut a piece of 1x2 for the pier footing, and then I'll measure for the height of the pier up to bottom of the truss bridge framing, which will be the top of the ledge.
But that's not getting done tonight.
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It will be nice to have this off my workbench!:)
 
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I got a bit more done on the river scene today. I got the path from the top down to the river carved out. I made it 1-1/4" wide, which works out to 108" in HO scale, or just over 8-1/2 feet. So technically you could back your semi down that path, but I wouldn't advise it.
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I also did something I haven't done since 6th grade: played with plaster! Well, plaster cloth actually.... but still.
I picked up some plaster cloth at Hobby Lobby a few weeks ago. Humorous story: The plaster cloth is in the same section as their toy dinosaurs. While I was looking at plaster cloth trying to decide which brand to buy, I heard a growly noise to my left. I looked over and there stood a boy, I'd say 11-12 years old, playing with the dinosaurs. He looked at me and began to explain all about the different types of dinosaurs, when they (supposedly) lived, their habits, etc., etc. I remarked to him that he certainly knew a lot about dinosaurs, and maybe he should be a paleontologist when he grew up. Then he proceeds to tell me all about the types of college courses needed to get a degree in paleontology. Now, mind you, I have absolutely NO idea who this kid is, but he didn't seem to care. Then his dad came around the corner and told him it was time to go, so he left. I told the story to my wife when I got home. She just chuckled and said "Well, he was probably just glad that he had someone that would listen to him!"
Anyway, the last time I did anything with plaster was when we made papier mache (and yes, the proper way to spell it is with an 'i') puppets for a world history class in 6th grade. I wanted to blend the Homasote and foam together to get rid of the striation line, and to to blend the the sandbar and bank together. I tried to keep it out of the river bed, however. A bit of undercutting will look more natural there.
I pre-cut the pieces I needed so I wouldn't have to to so while working.
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Here is the result after the first layer:
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I did the other side the same way, with the pieces for the path overlapping in the middle and a piece the width of the path on top of them. When I do the second layer, the middle piece will be about twice as wide as the path. This will put the 'seam' on the walls of the path. I have not yet decided how to finish the sides of the path yet. I want some type of retaining material there to prevent the walls from caving in, which is what would have been done in the 1:1 scale world. I was thinking of wooden cribbing sheet material, such as:http://www.sceneryexpress.com/HO-SCALE-FLEXIBLE-LIGHT-TIMBER-CRIBBING/productinfo/CH8500/#

The only problem I can think of is that the front of the bank is not perfectly straight, but is canted backwards. This would make the front of the cribbing either stick out past the bank if left uncut, which it wouldn't be, or cut and throw off the pattern at the front of the cribbing. I've also thought about coursed stone which would be easier to make look better at the front of the bank by simply trimming along the course line. After I paint the path with some earth colored latex paint, I'll put some fine or medium ballast on the path to simulate crushed rock. I'll apply it while the paint is still wet and let the paint secure it to the path.
Anyway, here is the sandbar side after the first layer:
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The sandbar is two layers of 5/32" cork sheet trimmed at an angle. I'll use some filler to get rid of the step between the layers before adding the water.
Since today was such a nice day, I was able to do some spray painting outside. I gave the abutments and center pier a couple coats of Rust-Oleum gray primer. This will be allowed to dry for at least a week, and then they will be airbrushed a light gray to simulate concrete. These were made in a single pour, so no block lines are needed. Yay!!
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They are temporarily fastened to the 1x4 by three dots of latex caulk to facilitate easy removal, but be solid enough for painting.
A lot of people seem to have problems with cracking paint when they use spray paint. The reason for that is that spray paint takes a while to fully dry, and while it is drying it gives off gases. If a second coat of paint is applied over a coat that has partially hardened, those gases are going to go right through the fresh coat of paint. This is what causes the paint to crack. It isn't the 'old' coat that is cracking, it's the new coat. If a second coat of paint is applied while the first coat is still wet, or has just barely begun to set, say within 10 minutes of the first coat, cracking will not occur because the first coat is still fresh and the second will simply blend/mix right in with it, effectively becoming a single coat of paint. Waiting until the first coat has partially hardened before applying the second coat is almost guaranteed to result in cracking. Waiting until the first coat has completely dried, say 7 days, and then applying the second coat will almost never result in cracking. Now, the foregoing assumes two things: 1. Temperature and humidity are within the acceptable range to paint, and 2: the first and second coats are of the same type of paint, or at least compatible with one another. Some paints are simply not compatible with each other, and you're paddling your own canoe there, bub!

Now that spring is approaching and the outside jobs are needing done, I may have even less time than normal to work on the railroad, but I'll do what I can when I can!
Thanks all!
 
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I was on Google Maps (yes, I know. Shame on me for wasting time on the computer when I could be working on the railroad.) and I went out to Big Springs, Ne., the town that my semi-fictional railroad is based on. I took a view from the Route 25B bridge. Now I know what to base my river scenery on, and about how it should look. I also discovered nowhere west of Lincoln does the UP mainline cross the Platte River. Oh, well. Modeler's license. The buildings you see on the right side of the pic are the Farmer's Co-op elevators, as near as I can tell anyway.
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Have you ever noticed how, when you get started on a particular project, you get sidetracked and wind up having to do one or two things you hadn't planned on BEFORE you can get back to your original project?:(
I decided, since the big workbench in the main room of the basement is needed for other things right now which resulted in a temporary halt to the river scene project, to work on the railroad yard.
This is what the yard was originally going to look like:
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I have since put in a section of benchwork in the corner, so no trains will take the long drop to the floor. I put in the Atlas #8 turnout and wired the frog. I then started to lay out the turnouts for the yard when I realized: Where am I going to put the water tower and coaling tower kits I bought at the train shows?:confused:
There being no room on the left side of the service tracks (the steamer is on the right service track in the pic), they would have to go on the right side of the tracks. But how much room would they need, and how far back from the track to look realistic? Only one way to find out: Time for some structure building. I did the water tower first. I found this pic online:
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I like that look, so that's what I went for. How close I came you'll have to decide. I did paint the frost box in brown, though. I like that better.
A front shot of the tower. I tried to capture the look of a tower that's been subjected to smoke while the steamer is getting coaled from the tower to the left of it.
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A shot of the spout assembly and frost box.
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The ladder:
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I added some water stains and rust in appropriate spots. The maintenance man wasn't real careful repainting the top side of that hatch. He just wanted down from there!
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Some of the shingles have been replaced with whatever was available.
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Now that I knew where the water tower had to go, I could start locating the turnouts for the yard.
Using the standard geometry of Atlas #4 turnouts will produce a spacing of 2" centers for parallel tracks.
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This is fine for mainline work, but I want my tracks a bit closer together to better simulate a real yard. The solution? :eek: Heresy!! Shorten the turnout.
This will provide a track spacing of 1-3/4", and permit longer yard tracks.
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All turnouts will have the frogs powered. The yard tracks will all be flex track.
Now to build the coaling tower.
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I've seen some pics of this model online that looked pretty durn good! I hope my meager skills are up to the challenge!
 
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