The Return of the D&J Railroad


D&J RailRoad

Professor of HO
In 1984 I started a small layout in the empty basement of my new home, using left over lumber from the construction. I named it the D&J Railroad for Dad & Jon, my son who was a youngster then. A point to point switching layout with a single DC power pack and a couple of Athearn Trainmasters.
I mentioned to my mother that I had built this small layout and she told me she still had my trains that I left at home when I went off to the Marine Corps back in 1968. Hmmmmm, I thought I sold all that. Next time I visited her, I went up to the attic and found the box of HO scale Lionel freight cars and a Texas Special with nuke payload, box car and caboose with sprung trucks and a few other items.
The layout began to grow with a loop around at each end for constant running. Developed a freight yard control panel, then added an infra red remote control and a year later installed a couple of Aristo Craft radio controllers. The layout expanded around to another wall of the still empty basement, then one day, the bad news came when my high school age son told me, "Dad, trains aren't cool anymore." I was on my own. Almost a week later, my wife told me that one of the teachers at the school she worked at was a model railroader. I invited him over to see the layout and a new friendship began. He didn't have a layout, but he had tons of HO scale stuff. His many career moves made it impossible to establish much of anything and his pack rat style made it impossible to start any kind of layout even if he wanted to. A bit of encouragement and an influx of about 200 feet of flex track from him and I was convinced I had to extend the layout completely around the basement. Yeah, DCC wasn't too far behind. I got into it in the early years and built about 15 controller boards. I eventually stripped out the rotary cab controllers and sectioned the layout into three sections, each with its own Digitrax computer and breakers. The layout was club sized and I soon was sponsoring an established club at my house for full scale operating sessions, complete with radio headsets, a dispatcher position upstairs complete with video observation of major nodes in the layout. Teams of train crews had assignments for the 14 industries on the layout. The division yard had its own check in frequency and a yard team. A staging yard of 8 tracks, 45 feet long, held trains in ready for their appearance on the main layout with helper service to push them up the 70+ feet of 2.5% grades. A smattering of passenger service in an operating session saw a commuter or long haul Amtrak part the freight service as they made their way across the southwestern landscape. 60 car UP coal drags meeting 60 car COFC with BNSF motive power were common sites on the D&J Railroad.

The hobby was fun and life was great.

One day, the wife and I came to the decision that the basement had to be fixed up to sell the house. I couldn't put drywall up with the layout in place so I made the hard decision to tear it all down with the hope of rebuilding the D&J in some other place, in some other time. More than two months of work to remove and save all the track, signals, structures and foliage, then dismantle the bench work and haul most of it to the landfill. Construction began to put up framing and drywall, carpeting and a bathroom, with completion just in time for the housing market to fall apart.
So its been a few years now, lots of rolling stock in plastics tubs under the stairway. I finally put an 8 foot long 5 inch wide shelf on a wall in my video studio upstairs to just check the operation of a few locomotives. The housing market doesn't look good for years into the future now. The basement is virtually empty and beaconing me to do something with it.
I was doodling today and came up with an idea. I can't put track completely around the basement wall now as it was before because of the bathroom. The stairway and utilities are in the center of the 54' X 35' basement. I do have enough room for an 8 foot loop at each end of a 200' run of track and possibly fold it back over itself a few times for a long 1% or less grade uphill for a scale 10 miles. Division yards would be at the bottom end and the top end. The track would negotiate the elevation change with occasional flats for industries. The run from end to end would be on narrow shelfs of double track mainline with sidings in the corners of the basement. I envision 3 divisions for the Digitrax and a central easy access location for the computer and power supplies. I envision a programming track spur off of the mainline at a work station with programming software on a dedicated computer. The ceiling has recessed lighting and the whole room is air conditioned. I will be meeting with a long time model railroader this week to brainstorm how to launch this new railroad, using lessons learned, planning software and a real desire to get trains running again.
 
Hi Ken,
Sounds like you got caught up in being on the cutting edge of technology with those AristoCraft controllers. I think DCC will be around a little longer.

I like your idea for the basement. I'm a fan of around the wall layouts rather than big square things. One issue to think about is those eight foot blobs at each end of the dogbone. The average reach is about 33", which means a fair portion of that eight feet will not be easily reachable even if you access to all sides. Not saying that the eight foot blob isn't a good idea, just that you should plan some small pop-up in the middle so you can reach things when the need arises.
 
Just did a brain storming with a friend about the D&J Railroad. There are some facets that we just can't get our head around. This is going to be a loop to loop railroad. Double track running. Starting at one end where the track head will be 30" off the floor the double loops back on itself, so in effect one of the double tracks is uphill track and the other track is coming back downhill. The roadbed runs along the wall for 60' (I don't know where I got 200' from) where it loops around at 48" radius and heads back to the other end of the run. At the far end it loops back again, 48" radii and runs back the 60' to the other end for the loop back where the double track splits to turn the train around. Each run is right about 1 scale mile. The elevation change from one end to the other is about 7.5" making a little less than 1% grade. The center point of the run is were the rail heads will have the maximum vertical separation of 7.5". As the track approaches each end loop, the vertical separation becomes less until they merge for a level loop to decrease drag.
One of the issues I'm wrestling with is how to attach the road bed to the wall. There are 2X4 vertical studs behind the dry wall on 16" centers. The vertical studs are anchored to the sill 2X4 which is anchored to the concrete floor. The top is anchored to the ceiling joists. In other words, the wall structure is very secure. I intend the road bed to be just wide enough for the double track and a bit of scenery. Maybe 10" wide at the most.
I'm inclined to think that securing 2X4 material flat on the wall and cantilever the road bed off of the top edge of that. Probably 5/8" plywood for the road bed. Cork roadbed on the plywood then the flex track. Metal screen for scenery contour covered with drywall mud then painted tones of earth. Earth tones painted onto wall with horizon and blue sky. Digitrax and signal wiring can be run under the forward edge of the road bed.

Thoughts, suggestion on these plans?
 
Sounds like a reasonable plan to me. You've got enough run to make a reasonable grade. Are you sure you need to attach the roadbed to the wall? You could use built up layers of 2" extruded foam to both provide a shelf for the roadbed and give you the scenery contour at the same time. It's just a matter of using some latex caulk to bond the layers together and then some caulk on the rear of the layers once they are complete to hold the foam on the wall. It doesn't sound you have enough weight to need all that structural work and using foam will save you the screen wire and plaster mess for the scenery.
 
I considered the styrafoam, but I just don't think its strong enough for an application like this. The weight of trains along with the track and ballast and the occasional bumping by operators or observers I think would easily cause quite a bit of damage. I don't know how many times kids tried to do chin ups on the bench work of the previous layout. With styrafoam, that would put an end to the operating session right then and there.
 
Ken, just so we understand, the styrofoam I'm talking about is the real Styrofoam, not the bead board that's used for what are commonly called styrofoam coffee cups. Styrofoam is very strong and should have no problem supporting HO tracks and trains, since it's in common uses on thousands of layouts today. You can cover the Styrofoam with with some plaster cloth for final shaping if you're worried about dents from little hands. The foam plus the plaster cloth will literally be hard as rock.
 
Ken, just so we understand, the styrofoam I'm talking about is the real Styrofoam, not the bead board that's used for what are commonly called styrofoam coffee cups. Styrofoam is very strong and should have no problem supporting HO tracks and trains, since it's in common uses on thousands of layouts today. You can cover the Styrofoam with with some plaster cloth for final shaping if you're worried about dents from little hands. The foam plus the plaster cloth will literally be hard as rock.
I think I know what you are talking about. I have seen some pretty strong stuff used for packing delicate equipment. I don't know if I would want to glue it to the wall though. Taking it down some day would pull the paper off the drywall and make it a real job to fix.
 
Ken, you just use latex caulk to glue it in place. If you ever want to take it off the wall, you just run under the bead of latex with a putty kinife and it comes right off with no damage to the drywall.
 
I would think if a putty knife under the caulk would break it loose, it might come off on its own one night when I leave an expensive COFC train sitting on it.
Thinking through this though, if I place a sheet of plywood on the wall first, with sheet rock screws into the studs, then I have an expendable surface to solidly glue the foam to.
Where can I get the foam for this venture?
 
Ken, you're over thinking this. Really, you wouldn't even have to secure it to the wall - 7 inches of foam will stand on its own and won't even need to be secured to the wall except for the comfort factor. The latex caulk is extremely strong laterally. It would take a lot of force to pull it straight off the wall without damaging the wallboard. When the seal is broken by a putty knife, it peels very easily but you're not going to be doing that behind 7 inches of foam accidentally. I really don't think you need any plywood on the walls but do whatever makes you feel comfortable.

You can get Styrofoam insulation board at almost any home improvement store like Home Depot or Lowe's. It might be called extruded insulation foam board but as long as it's pink or blue, you have the right stuff. The ideal thickness is 2" but not all stores carry that - 1" is more normal. You can either get them to special order some 2" foam if you don't get lucky or you can use latex caulk to laminate two 1" sheets together. This makes an ideal surface for your layout since you can easily carve below grade features like rivers and lakes without all the mess of traditional methods.
 
Finally got started on the installation of the layout. My final plan idea is to use the extruded styrofoam as the layout surface. The 8' diameter loops at each end will have track at the outer edge, so popup isn't necessary. To preserve the walls, I am putting up a layer of scenery drywall over the existing drywall so I won't tear things up to much when I eventually have to remove the layout at a later date. I plan to cut strips of plywood, 2" wide and secure them to the scenery drywall layer with drywall screws to provide strength to hold the multiple levels of layout without the drywall pulling away from the wall. The extruded styrofoam will glue to the plywood strips.
After many setbacks and delays over the past few months, I was finally able to go downstairs and put two sheets of scenery drywall up last night. I had planned to try to get quite a few more sheets up but the grandson, who we were having over for a few days, got sick all over my easy chair so I had to clean that up.
Anyway, I'll be taking pictures of the progress. These pictures are what I accomplished last night.
Wall1.png


Wall2.png


The first picture is looking from the end where the lowest 8' X 8' loop will be. The second picture is from down the wall where the 9" wide shelfs will be installed.
 
Kem, glad to see you are still at it. Seems like your plan should work fine. You don't happen to be an engineer, do you? My son is a civil and I worked in construction project management for a number of years. It always seems like engineers just need one more thing to make a plan perfect. :)
 
No, not an engineer, but I do work in planning for Marine Corps communications systems as a defense contractor.
I got a few more sheets of drywall up last night. I have a bunch of Christmas decoration stuff to put away before I can proceed further down the right of way. I should be able to knock that out tonight then get somemore drywall put up on New Years Day.
 
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I finished putting up the drywall scenery layer. The pictures are in sequence on how the trains will run from one 8' turn around loop to the other. The end loops will be 7.5" higher than the previous with the lowest level loop being to the left edge of the first picture. The second loop will be along the wall of the last picture. The double track mainline will return along the wall back to the third loop which will be 8' in diameter and 15" higher and above the first loop. The mainline will then go back along the wall to the other end where the trains will turn around and come back down the grade. This will be about 6 scale miles of running, up the grade then back down. The staging yards will be on the first and second loop. with a few industries planted in the corners. There will be passing sidings on the 9" wide shelves along the walls. I will be using the extruded foamboard.

Wall1.png


Wall3.png


Wall4.png


Wall5.png


Wall7.png


Wall6.png


The next step will be planning exactly where the extruded foam will be glued to the wall. I will be cutting plywood strips, 3" wide that will be secured to the drywall scenery layer with drywall screws. This will provide the additional support for the drywall, because it isn't standing on the floor.
 
Is that a laser level I see? :eek: You're much too neat. You're making the rest of us looks like slobs. Seriously, very nice job so far.
 
..................................Where can I get the foam for this venture?

Have enjoyed following your thinking on this matter. Builders foam can be gotten at any building supply store. Home Depot, Loews, Menards, etc. One can get almost any thickness desired. I am using this material currently and it is a blast to work with. Two inch foamboard for the base thickness. Sculps easily. Can repair a goof with no problem, track and roadbed clues to it easily (white glue). Pin it down while drying with straight pins. Use laytex based paint. This is my second layout using foamboard as the first was 'an experiment' layout. Thought it good enough to use for the 'final' layout. Entire layout sits on a light 2x2 frame 40" from floor.
 
Getting a little progress on the layout. This is the lowest loop of the layout. 8 feet in diameter. The uprights will support two more levels that will be built when the construction of the foam shelfs return from the far end of the run. The loop structure is anchored into the wall on the right side of the picture in three places and then on the back side near the door is another anchor point. The whole structure is setting on the plastic cups that have the points in them so the carpet isn't crushed under the wood frame. The loop is turned slightly away from the wall for access to track on the backside in the unlikely event of a derailment. The center will not be a pop-up because it will be sceniked. This is about as flat as a pool table and rigid enough to support an overlayment of the 2" foam along with the scenery, trains other stuff that ends up on the layout surface in violation of layout rules. The average .83% grade will begin upward just off to the right of the picture and continue to the far end loop, about 70 feet away. That will give me a 14" railhead to railhead rise when the track returns to this loop. Some parts of the track run will be harder than .83% while other sections will be level for sidings. The sidings can be developed on their own section of foam independant of the mainline.


Lowestloop.png
 
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I love seeing a layout go up like this. Nice looking work Ken.

Man, what I'd do to have a nice, finished area like that!
 



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