Trucklover
BNSF SD70MAC's
Thanks everyone 
I used Bragdon Enterprises Weathering Chalks for all the weathering, i love the stuff.
I used Bragdon Enterprises Weathering Chalks for all the weathering, i love the stuff.
The Construction of the Ashland Iron & Steel Blast Furnace
- Thread starter Trucklover
- Start date
Just looked thru this whole subject thread (and a few others related to steel mills). You did a really nice job there Josh.
I've got 2 questions for you:
1) How did you post your images? Are they 'hosted' on another site, then posted as "images" here on this forum? They are not just attachments, is that correct?
I'm trying to decide where to post some photos of another AWESOME steel mill complex I photographed recent on a layout tour near Balt. Don't know whether to start a new subject thread, or add it too an existing one. Lots of impressive photos.
2) Just wondering if you've ever worked with those real liquidy bonding cements such as Tenex, or Ambroid Weld, or Plastruct Plastic Weld, etc?? I've found that they work rather quickly, and get thoroughly into the tight joints, and don't leave a glue 'presence' like many of the older cements and/or CA.
I've got 2 questions for you:
1) How did you post your images? Are they 'hosted' on another site, then posted as "images" here on this forum? They are not just attachments, is that correct?
I'm trying to decide where to post some photos of another AWESOME steel mill complex I photographed recent on a layout tour near Balt. Don't know whether to start a new subject thread, or add it too an existing one. Lots of impressive photos.
2) Just wondering if you've ever worked with those real liquidy bonding cements such as Tenex, or Ambroid Weld, or Plastruct Plastic Weld, etc?? I've found that they work rather quickly, and get thoroughly into the tight joints, and don't leave a glue 'presence' like many of the older cements and/or CA.
Trucklover
BNSF SD70MAC's
First off, thanks!
I had them all uploaded to Photobucket and then linked as Images here on the forum. Just clicked on the little picture of the mountain and sun when submitting a new post which inserts the correct format for posting the image to the forum.
I'd love to see those pictures of the mill you photographed! Please do post a link to the thread here when you make it! Im not on the forums all that much, and thats one that I would really like to see! Im always trying to gather new ideas for my future steel mill lol
I havnt had much experience with those kinda adhesives. Ive heard of the Tenex stuff, but never really done any research on the stuff or where to even get it. Ive been using just plain old Loctite super glue from Lowes. Ive heard this stuff breaks down and becomes weak over time and when the sun gets to it (if its infront of a window or gets any kinda exposure to the sun and heat) but I personally have not had this happen, yet... Ive been using it for a couple years now in my building projects. Do you happen to know where to get the Tenex stuff?
As for Ambroid Weld, ive never heard of it. Id be interested to check this out as well
I didnt have a good experience with the Plastruct stuff. Maybe I just wasnt using it right, but I found that it did not bond quickly at all, and when it did, it was very weak. I have 2 bottles of the stuff at home. Ive tried applying it to both pieces of plastic and sticking them together, tried applying them to only one piece and not the other, and also tried butting the two pieces up against each other and applying the stuff to the joint, nothing really works for me when using the adhesive. Again, I could be using the stuff completely wrong, but ive never really taken the time to use it more and figure the stuff out. I know its gotta work, otherwise they wouldnt be selling the stuff...
Just to let you know I doubt you'll find new bottles of Tenax or stuff that hasn't gone stale. I think it was taken off the market a couple of years ago. But if you can get it it does work quick and don't work with it unless you have a supply of fresh air. And don't work with it in a room where you're next to some heat source as that makes it really nasty to breath. Talk about getting high - it ain't cool. Been there, experienced that a couple of winters back working in the basement next to a space heater and building a kit.
Tenax 7r
I actually used this adhesive very effectively for a few years,...and before I knew of its potential toxity.
Here is one source that might still have product
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Tenax-7R-Space-Age-Plastic-Welder-p/tnx-7.htm
"Super-fast clear plastic cement. Thin formula spreads itself through a joint.
Apply a drop at a time, usually one drop will do. Cures is seconds.
Features
Tenax-7R causes plastic to become its own bonding agent.
Works on styrene, butyrate, ABS and acrylic plastics.
Nonflammable, non-sniffable, non-sticky and leaves no residue.
Bonds in seconds and dries in minutes."
I found this description to be true.
Here is another interesting forum discussion on the product, as well as some alternatives
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/general_discussion/f/9/t/123666.aspx
Don't buy a big amount of this product like I did, as it evaporates thru the plastic cap. But if you are careful with this product it works great. Don't put too much on at any one time. A small drop goes a long way,...and instantly.
I actually used this adhesive very effectively for a few years,...and before I knew of its potential toxity.
Here is one source that might still have product
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/Tenax-7R-Space-Age-Plastic-Welder-p/tnx-7.htm
"Super-fast clear plastic cement. Thin formula spreads itself through a joint.
Apply a drop at a time, usually one drop will do. Cures is seconds.
Features
Tenax-7R causes plastic to become its own bonding agent.
Works on styrene, butyrate, ABS and acrylic plastics.
Nonflammable, non-sniffable, non-sticky and leaves no residue.
Bonds in seconds and dries in minutes."
I found this description to be true.
Here is another interesting forum discussion on the product, as well as some alternatives
http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/general_discussion/f/9/t/123666.aspx
Don't buy a big amount of this product like I did, as it evaporates thru the plastic cap. But if you are careful with this product it works great. Don't put too much on at any one time. A small drop goes a long way,...and instantly.
I'll get those pics for you. I promise you will enjoy them.
Ask yourself, or go visit a shop that makes plastic items from raw sheets, tubes, etc. They use a very liquidy 'cement' that acts to bond the plastic parts together...
It is actually Pro-Weld. Here are some comments
http://www.amazon.com/Ambroid-Pro-Weld/product-reviews/B0035Y26HS
I did not find that it worked as quickly as Tenax, and thus required holding things in place a little longer than I wanted,...and with a bit more chance for mistakes.
I also did not find that it worked that well,...again too slow.
Josh I've had the best results when using Plastruct Weld or Testors liquid by first lightly sanding the 2 surfaces with #600 paper, especially on ABS plastics like Plastruct structural shapes. This removes the slick and lets the cement soften the scratched plastic much better. Plastic Weld works on all plastics while Testors works best on styrene. Also a cheaper alternative to either one is buy a pint of MEK at any hardware store and use it the same way as the hobby liquid cements. In fact MEK is the base of those. MEK will bond all plastics. Definitely use in well ventilated area and away from any flame producing device. The vapors are highly volatile!
