Subject: Atlas code 80 switches

[railfan]

Don't have any switches installed on my layout yet.....and am fixing to try and sell (cheap) my cork covered door platform.....and then build a new larger U-shaped platform with 1/4" plywood.....but I digress.

I've heard mixed reviews of atlas code 80 switches......and yet every brand, every profile seems to have pros and cons to them. I found an informative guide/article written by a hobbyist who has used every type of atlas N scale code 80 switch ever made over a couple decades at least....and he shows how to indentify the ten different timeline versions of basicly the same switch....and describes the similarities, differences, and how well or not each performs. His claim is that they ALL work well except the ones he calls "number 9".....which have the moveable points made TOO THICK....which cause problems where wheels do not pass through easily and often derail due to these points being too wide causing obstruction and effectively narrowing the gauge beyond useful tolerances.....if I understand him correctly.

His guide is for only the atlas code 80 switches that have the onboard black plastic actuator housing with some being either strictly manual and others electrically remote/manual operated. At least some, if not all, of the ones with the built-in remote/electric device....also have a small tab that can be pushed for manual operation. These built-in actuator types have been made over the years in italy, austria, USA, and now china. Certain ones made in austria are said to be among the best performing.....with the newest 10's being quite good too.

The other atlas type (not covered in the guide above) is what atlas calls their code 80 "custom line switch" that is just like a peco or micro engineering or atlas code 55 with only a throwbar on the switch (NO ONBOARD ACTUATOR). These are made to be used with a manual ground throw.....or switch machine of your choice.

Anyway, I have sixteen recently aquired atlas code 80 turnouts, some with manual actuators, some remote/manual actuators, and some are the non-actuator custom-line ones. Like I said before never used any on a layout yet...(just starting out). The other night I found and read the above article and right away figured out and identified my switches with the onboard manual-only actuators as being the newest latest number 10 types (made in china). I suspect my two remote switches (still in package) will also be number 10's because source M.B. Klein goes though inventory quickly.

I took a spare rail-car truck and pushed it with my finger back and forth through the manual turnout while switching the points left and right. The truck moved very smoothly past the points (switched both ways) and through the frog. I connected short pieces of straight track to the switch so I had ample run up distance to get a good feel for how it was working through all routes. At this small scale getting these tolerances and clearances just right during the manufacturing process is more important than ever.

So far I'm pleased with the results of my little dry run. Everything works smoothly and my version number 10 manual actuators have a spring that seems to hold the points against the side rail very adequately at least in testing. Onward now to install one for some real world punishment!

Please comment about your own experiences......good and bad.....I know some people seem to have had less than perfect luck with these.

http://reviews.ebay.com/Ten-Styles-of-Atlas-N-Scale-Switches-Turnouts-Detail?ugid=10000000175276916


Mike

 

[blvdbuzzard]

I can only say that I have used the Custom line code 80 turnouts. I used Atlas under the table switch machines. I did not have any trouble with them for a number of years. I took the layout down and removed and kept the switches. I tossed the flex track. I think i have 9 left and 6 rights. Have been thinking of putting up a small 3x6 N scale to keep me from being bored.

Buzz.

 

[railfan]

I installed four manual switches on my layout to connect my inner and outer ovals.......So I can divert from inner to outer and vise-versa without changing direction. These are standard number #4's.......one inch of diversion at four inches forward......this being the smallest radius available.....and the locomotives and rolling stock fly super smoothly fast and slow through these turnouts. Interesting how the large kato ac4400cw locomotive with 6 wheel trucks goes through these tight switches more smoothly with no bumps better than an FT with 4 wheel trucks......but no problems for any. With power wires going only to the outer loop of track.....the new switches then supplied power to the inner loop. No special wiring of any kind needed in this simple setup. Awesome goodness. Totally functional!

Mike

 

[TrinityJayOne]

I have two of the manual ones with the black plastic on the side and still maintain that Peco turnouts are far superior. I don't like the soft, almost floaty feel of the switching mechanism or the large amount of play in it. I've also had trains dislike them, or rather my brother has, mainly steamers and metal-wheeled passenger cars (not pizza cutters though). That said my Challenger doesn't have any challenges (sorry) when going over them, although admittedly I only use them in yards where speeds are at a minimum.

 

[railfan]

I don't like the soft, almost floaty feel of the switching mechanism or the large amount of play in it.

I do see what you mean about the sloppy feel at the finger trip lever. The spring holding the points to the side of the rails seems adequate. Some day I'm sure I'll try some better ones. Right now at $10.99 each these are ok. They don't look the best for realism though.

Mike