soldering flextrack


I like to place the blunt end of a 1/2" or smaller file to the inside of the joint and against the two rails. (The file keeps the two rails even with each other and this is particularly good in curves.) Apply the solder to the outside on the joint, then place the file against the inside and reheat. There may be times that the file must be used on the outside, but this is no problem and just requires heating around the file.
 
I solder mine pinned in a straight line, then bend it to the desired curve. Repeat for the third section. I also have a couple square chunks of metal I place on the rails to act as a heat sink. You will have to cut back some ties to make room for the rail joiner to slide on the one rail, usually the outer rail. When I did the helix i went thru this numerous times.
 
I don't solder straight track, but use jumpers instead. I also leave a gap at the joints that is the thickness of my NMRA guage (Yet one more use for that handy tool!).

On curves, I solder the first piece onto the end of the straight about a foot before the easement begins, then lay the track most of the way through that piece, making sure the sliding rail is on the outside of the curve. With about 6" unlayed I can then test fit and cut to length that piece and solder the next on, only removing a tie or two (save them, you need to shave off the spikeheads and slip them back in place later). Now you can continue laying out your curve until you get to 6" from the end of that piece, and just repeat the process.

Works for me, and the only thing I have to go back for is to slip in those few ties.
 
Everyone has good ideas,,, The way that Rico describes is the way I do it. I ALWAYS make sure my soldered joints are straight, flat, and rails lined up before I do anything.

The more time you take in doing this right, the less time you will be picking up derailments.

Adios Wyatt
 
Rico said:
I solder mine pinned in a straight line, then bend it to the desired curve. Repeat for the third section. I also have a couple square chunks of metal I place on the rails to act as a heat sink. You will have to cut back some ties to make room for the rail joiner to slide on the one rail, usually the outer rail. When I did the helix i went thru this numerous times.
Click to expand...

no helix but this is pretty much the way I did mine. leave unsoldered gaps at the end of 3 to give some expansion, even if indoors. The ties are connected under one rail only, make those connected be under the outer rail on a curve. This will make the inrer rail "too long" and you will then trim it to even it up to connect the next section.
 
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