sealing chalk?????


M

Mixerdriver

New Member
Im new to this weathering thing. I got some chalk and am trying that, my ? is what do I use to seal it on the structure or train. I used dulcoat today it looks ok. Any suggestions on weathering is reallly needed. :( This aint as easy as it looks. But is a lot of fun trying different things.
 
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Maybe I am very much in the minority, but I just leave mine. I don't handle the equipment very much and if it rubs off, I just add a bit more.

Easy.
 
If he piece isn't going to handled then just leaving it alone as suggested works fine. For things like locomotives and rolling stock, sealing the chalk with dullcote generally works fine. I suspect that the weathering didn't look quite right after the dullcote dried. That's normal, since the dullcote removes some of the color from the chalk. You have to get used to weathering the model about twice as much as what you want the finished model to look like and then it will look correct when sealed.
 
Hi, weathering is a slow tedious job. But the end results are rewarding. Typically you weather in layers, and yes the dullcote will remove some of that powder. You need to keep laying down the powder and seal it. This will eventually turn into the look you are looking for. Also adding black wash and highlites will bring the detail out. It takes sometime, you cannot learn this overnight, if you think you can, you will be dicouraged.:eek:

If you choose not to dullcote the finish, you'll get finger prints all over the piece that you worked on. And you do not want that.:(

Good luck!;)
 
I'd look into getting some weathering powders. They stick better than the chalks. You can get them from AIM, Bragdon, Doc O'Briens and some other companies.

Dullcoat the model before you start to gave a better surface for the chalks to stick to. Rather than doing one heavy layer to compensate for the chalk coming off while dullcoating, use several layers to build up the effect.

Weathering can be a very involved process if you want to take the time.

I'd recomend a visit to www.modeltrainsweathered.com to get tips and tricks from so true weathering masters.
 
some say you can use hairspray to seal but from what I hear it will cause dust to stick to the model. I would not use any if you can and if you do then work the look in layers. seal each layer with dullcote. I found you can get dullcote at art supply store cheaper (with coupons). I get a can for $2 or so. When it's on sale get as much as you think you'll need. I use artist chalks and AIM powders. Ther artist chalks are good for colors and the powders are nice since they stick better. I also use water, windshield washer fluid and dullcote from the bottle mixed into the chalks. Remember to use washes, dry brushing, and airbrush if you got one.
 
railBuilderDhd said:
some say you can use hairspray to seal but from what I hear it will cause dust to stick to the model...
Click to expand...

Actually RBD, hairspray is the method I have used on chalk for many years to hold it initially in place. I also let the hairspray mist down onto the model and don't spray it directly onto the model. Once the hairspray is no longer "wet", 10-15 minutes or so, I do cover with dullcoat, very lightly applied with an airbrush. Works for me when I need to use chalks.

Mixerdriver said:
Im new to this weathering thing. I got some chalk and am trying that, my ? is what do I use to seal it on the structure or train. I used dulcoat today it looks ok. Any suggestions on weathering is reallly needed. :( This aint as easy as it looks. But is a lot of fun trying different things.
Click to expand...

Mixer;

Don't be afraid to try any method or media to achieve the effect that you're after. Over the years, I bet I've used everything from water colors, tempra powders, charcoal shaved off of briquets, or ashes from a fire including cigar/cigarette ashes, washes, inks, oils, colored pencils, etc and probably several methods that I can't remember. If I could possibly create an effect the customer wanted by using something "exotic", I did.

There is another thread in here about weathering, and everyone there has great advice. Even after as many years of custom painting, I generally learn something I didn't know about finishing, lettering, and weathering at the least, once a week.
 
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Do you find the chalks stick to the entire model and have a hard time removing the chalk from areas you don't want them? I assume you add the Dullcote after you add the chalks, correct? Sounds like a good way, do you have detail or how to photos to share? I think I would like to try it out!
RBDave
 
railBuilderDhd said:
Do you find the chalks stick to the entire model and have a hard time removing the chalk from areas you don't want them? I assume you add the Dullcote after you add the chalks, correct? Sounds like a good way, do you have detail or how to photos to share? I think I would like to try it out!
RBDave
Click to expand...

Sorry:( rBD. No how to Pix. (Oughta make some though.) but this old pic of one of my locos was weathered with chalks and sealed using the method I described.

Waitin1.png


Here's another more recent view of the same loco.

SRR5025.png
 
Looks familiar, Carey:D .
One thing that never seems to get mentioned: How do you protect the side mechanics and wheel contact surfaces from the sprays, paints, chalks, and other gunky stuff?:confused:
 
Rex has a good questions as well I wanted to be sure I undersatnd how you are doing this. First hair spray - dry -then chalks - then dullcote to seal it all in? Sounds good I really want to try it.
Dave
 
RexHea said:
Looks familiar, Carey:D .
One thing that never seems to get mentioned: How do you protect the side mechanics and wheel contact surfaces from the sprays, paints, chalks, and other gunky stuff?:confused:
Click to expand...

Rex;
Thats what lacquer thinner and paper towels were invented for.:D

I always, with few exceptions, paint the loco after completely disassembling it. I will paint the wheels while loco is apart. After its painted and decaled, and the wheels are reattached to the frame, but not to the gear and motor, I will use the LT and PTs to clean the wheels.(Wet the PT with the LT, and roll the mechanism over this towel on a piece of track. Cleans wheels everytime.):D

After the loco is completely reassembled & lubed, power is reattached and the moving parts are sprayed with the basic loco color, and then weathered using drybrushing and chalks. All moving parts are lubed before painting, with a "micro" drop of oil.

Hair spray, is sprayed into the air ABOVE the model, and is allowed to "mist" down onto the model. The model can be tilted from one side to the other by holding onto the mech by the smokestack, front coupler, cylinders, etc.

Like this!

460-ac.png


(This loco is next up on rebuild list! Her sister is completely apart, awaking reconstruction.)

 After the loco has been sprayed with the hairspray, I will give it a coat of Dullcoat. When that drys, I clean the wheels with the LT & PT again. :)

Hope this makes sense.



 
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;) Gottcha covered. Thanks CJ.
My dumb butt would have sprayed mess all over with it assembled and then the mechanics would have given me problems from here after.:)
 
One point of information,
After you dullcost your piece, if you brush on an india ink-alcohol wash, the coating will turn cloudy.
I have used this to further weather my freight cars and you can chalk over part of it to "layer" your weathering.
If weathering a structure, dullcote BEFORE you put your "window glass" in the structure, unless you want cloudy window panes.
Mikey
 
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