Removable bridge


H

hamltnblue

Active Member
Hello All
I'm brainstorming on how to use another portion of my basement for layout. the problem is that the path to the laundry would go right through it. The only option would be to make a 4 to 5 foot removable bridge that would be removed when the laundry is in use. Has anyone here seen this done? If so how do you get around potential alignment and connection issues?
Thanks
 
It is done more often than you might think. Lift out or fold up would be the best bets. More creative and engineering-heavy systems have the bridge rising on twin posts with counterweights, like a draw bridge. Keeps the alignment well that way, if nothing else.

As for the other systems, use long hinges to keep alignment tight. You build your bridge to length, add the hinge, make sure it is well supported at the far end with sturdy blocking (that won't catch an elbow, if possible) and you can use stereo jacks at the swinging end that comes down to the blocks for electrcial contact, or go through the hinges (you'll need two, one to supply power to each rail side). I wrap the bared wire ends around the screw shanks and then drive the screws in to their receptacles in the hinge halves. Works like a darn.

You build your rails to and over the bridge after it has been in place for a week or so...you need to let it get some use, up and down, and some settling into place. Otherwise, you may find alignment slips as the bencwork conforms to the stresses of having the bridge there.

-Crandell
 
Over the years I've built lift, foldup & lift out bridges on diff. layouts. The easiest one was a liftout which I had on my last layout. I made the bridge out of steel rod & welded it together. It was a 3ft, 2 track bridge. It was easy to make wire connections w/a small PC connector. It was also easy to align w/steel stops on each side of the bridge. My bridge was strong enough to use as car ramps. You could also make it to scale w/wood, plastic or aluminum.
The bridge before that was also a long 4ft bridge & it was a foldup(raise at 1 end.). I used piano hinge & just raised it straight up by hand. Just before the bridge I had a long section that I shut off to keep a train out of the opening.
That bridge was easy to align w/some stops I made.
There's a bridge that someone here on the forum can possibly get pictures of a 4 post lift bridge. That person is Leghome from Indiana.
Maybe he will see this thread & help you out.

Larry
 
Thanks for the replies. Definitely some good ideas to consider. It's a shame to see a corner of the basement out of reach. :D
 
I had a lift out on a old layout years ago. What I did was build the bridge around a long pice of thick balsa wood. then I added a bunch atlas plastic girders to help hide the wood. At the ends of the bridge the rails would over hang about a half inch. with the bridge in place I used wood shims to properly guide and hold the bridge centered to the rails of the layout at each end. For bridge power I used a wire lead from the layout rails to spring contact tabs to the under side of the rails. when the bridge was lowered into position the tabs came into contact with the bridge rails and it had solid connection. Over time some adjustments had to be made to keep the track centered. it just takes a little brain storming

Trent
 
hamltnblue said:
Hello All
I'm brainstorming on how to use another portion of my basement for layout. the problem is that the path to the laundry would go right through it. The only option would be to make a 4 to 5 foot removable bridge that would be removed when the laundry is in use. Has anyone here seen this done? If so how do you get around potential alignment and connection issues?
Thanks
Click to expand...

Check these photos out. Photo 1 is a 34" bridge span and photo 2 has a 42" span. They snap in and out and weigh about 3 1/2 lbs. Mine is in photo 1 and has been in service since '01.

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/mrrail/BridgePicture01.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i75/mrrail/BridgePicture03.jpg

mrail :cool:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top