Quick Q: Cork roadbed --> extruded foam insulation - how to bond?


T

TheZeke

New Member
Hello,

I wanted to double check my findings here as I've been Googling this for a while now. I also searched the forum for information. Everyone talks about cork roadbed to wood but rarely do I find info about cork roadbed bonded to foam. Anyway, thought I'd ask here. I want to avoid using PL300 for the roadbed --> extruded foam insulation. PL300 seems way to permanent for this purpose at this time. I don't think I'm ready for that kind of commitment yet. :D

- Can I use latex caulking?
- Is silicone caulking better for this purpose?
- Am I doing this wrong entirely? (never hurts to ask)

Thanks!
 
I use the cheap wally-world brand latex caulk to hold the foam to wood, foam to cork, and even cork to track. Just lay down a good size bead, go back with a sheetrock blade to smooth it out, widen the bead, and thin it.
Easy to remove when its set, just wet it, and work it loose, or even using the same sheetrock blade, just run it along under the foam, cork, or track and it will pop up.
I've even cut thru track, cork, and roadbed to create sectional type pieces when redoing sections.
 
I'm a big fan of Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. It's available just about anywhere. It's a craft glue very similar to Elmer's, but provides a stronger bond. Bonds just about anything and dries clear. I have used it all over my layout. Foam to wood. Foam to foam. Wood to wood. Plastic to foam. If necessary, it is even fairly forgiving when you decide to change the layout.
 
RJasonB said:
I'm a big fan of Aleene's Original Tacky Glue. It's available just about anywhere. It's a craft glue very similar to Elmer's, but provides a stronger bond. Bonds just about anything and dries clear. I have used it all over my layout.
Click to expand...

Yup, me too. I've also used whatever latex adhesive caulk I've had on hand. Nothing has attacked the foamboard.
 
I like to use hot glue. You will be running trains quicker instead of waiting for glue or caulk to setup and dry. Im not biased, i use aleenes and caulk also.

Back to the hot glue, get a dual temp hot glue gun for when you need to glue to foam, use the low temp for the foam when you need to bond anything to foam.

The high temp works great for gluing to wood or other hard surfaces.

There is always a few ways to skin the cat.

My suggestion is to try these or whatever method is more cost efficient to you.
 
I like hot glue for many purposes, but gluing down cork and track is not among them.

I find hot glue has too little working time. I like more time to tweak the position of whatever I am gluing, so I am in the latex caulk camp.

- Jeff
 
Hot glue cools too quick for me, I use Elmer's, then put a bunch of pins and weights on the curved bits.
 
Thanks guys. I ended up using DAP latex caulking (clear). It's viscous enough that on straight and larger radius areas you don't really need pins to keep it down or in place. I got down and checked from a low vantage point though to make sure there were no high-spots after a few minutes to be sure though. I used pins in all other areas. Dried enough to put track down in 2 hours.

I haven't affixed the track to the roadbed yet though because I need to buy some more turnouts still and I'm going to need to install some switch machines and stuff. I'll probably put some dabs of caulking under track in places that definitely have no remote chance of having to be moved slightly aside so I can cut or drill for a switch machine.
 
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