Questions about track


D

dSLR

New Member
I'm a complete newb when it comes to scale model trains, but quite enthusiastic and hoping to learn quickly.

I picked up a Bachmann starter set (HO scale) for my daughter and I to enjoy, and to be honest, it's quite nice for the price. But, I think we're going to outgrow e-z track and I want to know what my options are.

I started building a layout on some plywood and have been painting and building some of my own accessories in addition to buying some pieces.

What I'd like to do is transition to something that will give me some more flexibility than Bachmann e-z track. I like that it's easy to install, but I think I'm ready for the next step so to speak.

If at all possible, I'd like to stay with relatively the same curve radius (is that possible?) in order to minimize re-building what I've already built, mounted, etc. if that makes sense. Also, at some point down the road, I'd like to be able to take the dive into DCC, but I'm not in a huge rush. I'd like the flexibility to make that transition though.

And I'm sorry if I'm completely missing the mark on some of these questions. I'm a little lost in terms of knowing what my upgrade options are.

I saw some rather nice looking track at a local hobby shop, and I think it was made by Atlas, but I didn't see how to power the track. I'm sure they had it somewhere, but I was in a hurry.

So a few questions:

(1) Can I upgrade to some better track that will have a similar track radius for the curved sections, so I can maintain my current layout?
(2) Will I still be able to use my existing power supply/command and then transition to DCC later, or is that a completely different ball game?
(3) I'd like to minimize any soldering that may be involved, because my solder skills are a bit rough.
(4) I'd like to keep costs reasonable so my wife doesn't freak out. E-z track is cheap. A buck something per piece of track. How much are we looking at for some upgraded track?
(5) Will this upgraded track be the type where you install cork trackbed underneath it?

Sorry for all the questions, and I truly appreciate any help and guidance anyone can offer. Thanks very, very much!

-Pat
 
Hello.

To answer your questions, I'll do them in the order you presented them.

1. Yes, you can upgrade most of the time to better track. Not all 18" radius curves are going to be the exact same size (length) from one brand to the next, but the radius will still be the same. When I was younger, I had maybe 4 different shapes that all had the same radius.
2. The wiring for DCC can actually be a lot easier than wiring for DC. If you're only planning on running one train with your current power supply, it's as easy as disconnecting that supply and connecting the DCC unit to the same two wires.
3. Don't like soldering? You can buy rail joiners that are already soldered to wire. They're much better looking than those old "railroad crossing" power connectors.
4. Depending on what you're buying and where you're getting the track, it may actually be cheaper to go with Atlas instead of the ez-track. There are a lot of different places online that sell track...it only takes a little research to find a good price.
5. Yes, you can put cork underneath it. Or you can lay it on top of the plywood or foam base. Cork will help deaden the sound of the locomotives and will provide a good profile for ballasting.

I hope I've been of help. And you shouldn't apologize for asking questions...that's how we learn.

timothy dineen
 
Another option as well is "flex track". Basically the same size and profile, and connects the same as Atlas sectional track, but comes in flexible 3 foot lengths. It's compatible with most sectional track, and allows you to do different radius turns than what's availble in sectional track.

Even if you decide to go with the sectional track, you can use flex track for longer straight sections, thus eliminating the 9 inch sections, many rail joiners, and giving you a better electrical circuit by eliminating the individual 9 inch section.

Less rail joiners means a better electrical circuit for your trains.

The 3 foot sections can be cut to fit as needed with rail nippers or a razor saw.

Just another option!

Rotor
 
Timothy and Rotor, thank you both very much for the feedback!

If I switch to Atlas track, do I have to use an Atlas power supply? I assume that the connector for my Bachmann power supply isn't compatible with the connector for Atlas. Is this correct?

Also, I found this Atlas power supply (non DCC), but it's $50. I didn't see anything more basic on Atlas' web page either.
http://www.1stplacehobbies.com/cgi-bin/p_150-311_n.asp
 
As far as track - Atlas HO Code 83 nickel silver track and KATO HO UNITRACK is high quality and smooth running. The Atlas track is more suited for permanent layouts and the KATO track has a built-in roadbed which makes it good for both temporary and permanent track layouts.

You can use your existing Bachmann power supply with either track system.

Best regards,
Brian
 
Thanks, Brian.

Question: The Bachmann power supply that was included in the kit has a power cable with a modular plug at the end that just plugs directly into the track. However, I noticed that the Atlas track has terminal screws. Is there a different cable that I can plug into my Bachmann power supply that just has two power leads at the end, so I can attach to the screws? I'd like to avoid cutting the plug off the end of the cable, in case I want to use it later.

thanks!
 
If I understand you correctly, you could purchase the Bachmann #44498 Plug-in 10' Power Extension Wire and cut off the plug end that attaches to the Atlas track and plug the other end to the plug that is on your existing power cable.

Best regards,
Brian
 
Brian, thank you! This is exactly the type of solution I was looking for. I really appreciate the help!
 
dSLR said:
If I switch to Atlas track, do I have to use an Atlas power supply? I assume that the connector for my Bachmann power supply isn't compatible with the connector for Atlas. Is this correct?
Click to expand...

Any manufacturers power supply will work. It doesn't have to be brand matching. Same with most sectional track. You can use Atlas track with Model Power, for example, as long as it is the same code track i.e. Code 100 with Code 100, Code 83 with Code 83, etc.

BRS came up with a good solution to avoid cutting your original power cord. If I remember correctly, the connector on your power supply is just a small (mini? Sub-mini?) audio connector, and could be had at Radio Shack for around a buck or so, and a roll of 2 conductor wire for maybe $5, and you could make your own power cord. You'll need the wire for stuff later on in the construction of your layout.

Rotor
 
dSLR said:
So a few questions:

(1) Can I upgrade to some better track that will have a similar track radius for the curved sections, so I can maintain my current layout?
Yes, and you should be able to find the same radius curves as the EZ T. The most common is 18" radius, and Atlas makes 18"R curves. Atlas is what I use, the Code 83 Nickle Silver {NS} track is good to work with, either in cut to fit flex track, or in sectional pieces. Since you have EZ T there should be {roughly} exact equals to Atlas sectionals. A good place to purchase them Cheap is here:http://www.wholesaletrains.com/HOProducts2.asp?Scale=HO&Item=150TRACK83
(2) Will I still be able to use my existing power supply/command and then transition to DCC later, or is that a completely different ball game?
You can use your existing DC power supply to any track, and can easily upgrade to DCC later if you have a relatively small simple layout. You can use a Bachmann transformer on Atlas track and vice versa. If you are hesitant to cut the plug on the Bachmann wire, then you can either buy new wire to connect the two and cut the plug, OR cut the plug far enough away that plug so that you can re-solder the plug back onto the wire if you like. AS mentioned above you can easily connect the two wires of DCC controller to the same connections on the simple layout track. You may want to add feeder wires to be sure of continuity of DCC signal about every 3-6 feet. You can do this with the ready-made track connectors with wires attached.You can find those on the pages of the listing above.
(3) I'd like to minimize any soldering that may be involved, because my solder skills are a bit rough.
Soldering track connections is NOT necessary, BUT will strengthen your electrical flow. Loose rail connectors can result in loss of electrical flow and result in shaky performance or dropped speed as teh loco circles the track. Practice on a few pieces of scrap track to make "perfect". Use a heat sink to be sure not to warp the palstic ties.
(4) I'd like to keep costs reasonable so my wife doesn't freak out. E-z track is cheap. A buck something per piece of track. How much are we looking at for some upgraded track?
Atlas comes in packages of multiple sectional pieces for a few bucks. At the site listed above it is relatively cheap. You can always set a budget and then order each month if you need to. But a one-time shot ordering of what you need to replace what you have already built will be better than piece-meal. Just bite the bullet. Other brands can be more expensive, and some will swear by them. Atlas is good general purpose track and used by many serious modelers.
(5) Will this upgraded track be the type where you install cork trackbed underneath it?
You can lay it directly on the plywood, or put cork underneath it, or use the Woodland Scenics foam track roadbed as in here:http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?Scale=HO&Item=TRACKBED&ID=200409445

Sorry for all the questions, and I truly appreciate any help and guidance anyone can offer. Thanks very, very much!


-Pat
Click to expand...
Not a problem. You're welcome!
 
Greetings, I am a new member of this forum and have been an HO enthusiast for most of my life. I have never had the time or space to build a layout but now that I am retired, I am trying to renew my aquaintance with model railroading, and stay active (golf, gym, etc).

That being said, in reference to this thread concerning track, is it nescessary to super elevate a mainline curve and if so what are the methods.
Thanks
Joe.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi Joe,
Not sure exactly what you mean by elevating a mainline curve, but I'm sure someone on this forum can answer that. My layout is flat.
 
Joe G said:
Greetings, I am a new member of this forum and have been an HO enthusiast for most of my life. I have never had the time or space to build a layout but now that I am retired, I am trying to renew my aquaintance with model railroading, and stay active (golf, gym, etc).

That being said, in reference to this thread concerning track, is it nescessary to super elevate a mainline curve and if so what are the methods.
Thanks
Joe.
Click to expand...

Howdy, Joe,
If by superelevating, you refer to having the outer rail higher than the inner on a curve, no, it's not necessary to superelevate a curve unless you really want to go to the trouble, or are running your trains at a scale 200 mph. Superelevation in HO is pretty much for looks, and I doubt many modelers bother. I recently visited the Museum of Science and Industry's new HO layout in Chicago, and I don't believe they have superelevated any of their track, though the layout is pretty much flat.
 
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