Power Pole Connectors - My problems


D

DALDEI

Member
I'm now to layouts and building. In my research I saw many many times praise for PowerPole connectors. So I decided that for my connections of sections buss wiring (14 guage) to main buss wire (12 guage) and for connections from the buss to my DCC system I've been using PowerPole connectors. I even went so far as to use a terminal strip, then make short (1 foot) wires with power pole on one end and crimped/soldered terminal strip connectors on the other. I really thought I was doing a "good job".

But alas as I build out my 2nd section and actually start testing I'm running into lots of problems. With about 8 pairs hooked up I'm getting the following problems

4 connections so far didn't solder well and I had to rebuild them. I couldnt *tell* they didn't solder well because all the solder is inside the powerpole metal connection part (its a closed end tube) so the solder joints looked and felt fine ... until they didnt work and wires fell out or worse, would be intermittant if I wiggled them but felt secure.

All connections dont hold together as much as advertised. Simply the weight of the wire is often enough to pull them apart, either fully (not often) or 1/2 way (about 1 cm) which is enough to disconnect the connection.

I'm starting to think these things are not such a great idea and to switch over to just terminal strips and soldered/crimped connectors for the 'occasionally need to disconnect' bits, and wire nuts for the "probably will never disconnect" bits.

Although my benchwork is "sectional" its not intended for moving or taking apart often. Its only sectional for the purpose of having to do major rework later, or if (when) I ever move so its not like I need the convenience of 2 second disconnects.

Any advise ? Anyone else have problems with PowerPole connectors ?

-David
 
Hmmm - Interesting, thanks for sharing your experiences. [Although, I'd never heard of 'em.....EDIT - The connectors, not your experiences! :)]

A few comments:

- Are they designed to have the wires soldered into the pins? The guys Google found for me had a note that their (presumably special & big$!) crimp tool should be used.
- If they're designed to be soldered, It does however sound like your soldering skills need improvement (No offense) - I'm almost sure that if you're 100% honest you *suspected* some of the joints at the time?...... The solder didn't flow quite as well into the "hole"..... The wire never "sank" into the solder... Did you give all connections a good solid "yank" after it'd cooled?..... A good soldered joint will not fail unless subjected to outside influence.

Having said that, it sounds like you're saying the connectors themselves simply "fall apart"? :eek: "Poor" installation shouldn't cause that, surely?[They don't have any "clips" to hold 'em together?]

Cheers,
Ian
 
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PowerPoles ...

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes my soldering skills need improvment ! Getting better every day. If this was the only problem I could live with it, knowing now what I do that I need to be *extra dilligent*. In fact NO I did NOT have a clue they were bad joints. I pre-tinned the wire, solder flowed through the hole, I kept it hot and and it was loose then when it went cold it held firm. I had *no clue at all* that the joint was bad. Reading about crimping, yes I could possibly crimp but seeing how these connectors are structured I suspect they may have a hard time inserting the metal part into the plastic after a crimp as there is no room to spare. I havent tried it yet (and do have some good crimp tools so could try).

But yes, if the bad solder part was the only problem I could work around that with more diligence and foresight.

But the other issue is still a mystery ! Once assembled they simply don't stay together very well ? They too easily slide on and off each other. Hard to explain, but you dont hear or feel a solid "click" when 2 connectors are coupled. It is a bit firmer, and as you get over the first lip there is a *SLIGHT* hesitation. But the weight of even a 2 feet of Gauge 12 wire is enough to detach them, or a slight Jiggle. I think they might work if I put stress reduction hardware on both ends (like staple the wires up to the benchwork) but that sorta defeats the purpose ! They are not as "tight" as say an RCA or Banana clip, and no positive latching or holding latch like a RG11/12 ... They rely on the pressure of the inside "tongues" to hold them in place.


only other thing I can see is rubber-banding or taping them together .. .but that again defeats the purposes.

I'm beginning to believe they are an expensive solution for a problem that doesn't exist (for me). Where spades and terminal strips are actually superior.
 
DALDEI said:
...Yes my soldering skills need improvment ! Getting better every day.
...
I had *no clue at all* that the joint was bad.
Click to expand...

Your soldering skills sound fine! These things sound messed up!:

But the weight of even a 2 feet of Gauge 12 wire is enough to detach them, or a slight Jiggle.
....
I'm beginning to believe they are an expensive solution for a problem that doesn't exist (for me). Where spades and terminal strips are actually superior.
Click to expand...

+1

Thanks for the heads up! Sounds like they suck! :)

Cheers,
Ian
 
We use PowerPoles on our club layout and haven't had the problems you mention (which doesn't mean you aren't having them) and NTRAK has moved toward PowerPoles for connecting modules. I've seen a couple of problems........#1, if you get the pole too hot when soldering, they sometimes warp/deform. And 2, if you don't get the metal contact pushed into the plastic far enough, they won't "latch". The "bumps" on each connector should overlap slightly so they are resting on the backside of the bump.....if not, there isn't much to hold them together, and if they got too hot, the spring in the metal will be gone and they will literally fall apart. In fact if they are resting on the frontside of the bump, the can literally push themselves apart. I believe crimping IS the prefered method for PowerPoles , but as you noted, there is very little leeway for deforming the connector and still have it fit into the plastic.
 
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PowerPole problem Solved !!! (?)

I've identified my 2 major problems and believe I've solved them.

1) bad solder/crimp.
I was using the wrong crimp tool or none.
I've ordered a tool explicitly for power-poles and it definitely has a different shape. I'm confident that with the right tool and more attention to solder (if any) I can solve the wire-coming-out-of-pin problem.

2) PowerPoles disconnecting from each other.
This one I had no clue over. But tonight I solved it !
I had 3 connectors (of 8) which would simply flop apart about 1/2 cm with no stress at all but a little jiggling.

SOLVED ! On advise and retrospection, I took the wires and pushed REALLY HARD (one more time, believe me I did it before).
This time they "Clicked" (again, they clicked before) but they definitely moved about 1mm and "clicked" into place.
Now the connectors stay solid together and take a significant tug to take them apart ! Yea !!

But the lesson learned ....

Powerpoles (probably ALL connectors) take practice, patience, education, and the right tools to work.

I still believe I was putting them to use where they were unnecessary, where simple spade connectors are better. To that extent I'm replacing those cases with spades, but now feel much better about the cases where I could really use a detachable connection to use the powerpoles.
 
The thing with Anderson Powerpoles is they were never meant for soldering - they are a crimp connector and if you're going to use them you must have the proper crimp tool. In one of my other hobbies (ham radio) we use them and with proper care in crimping there's never been a problem with them. With a proper crimp there's absolutely no need for soldering. Besides with a goofed up solder job you might never get things to mate up correctly.
 
Looks like some other Ham operator chimed in on the power poles. They are a common connector in low voltage Ham radio gear.

To tell you the truth I avoid power poles. They CAN be soldered and it will work out well if your soldering skills are good, but as was pointed out they were intended to be crimped. Soldering is actually better **IF** you can solder carefully and correctly with the right tools.

I dislike power poles where wires might get "tugged on" because they have a low holding ability that shows up when dealing with larger wire sizes.

I primarily use Euro style barrier strips for my connections. I have literally thousands of indoor and outdoor connections with Euro-style barrier strips. I like them because they are easy to modify, require no special tools, and are very reliable even when exposed to weather.

wiring-block.jpg


For my plug in connectors I use a "Phoenix" style connector. They are a bit expensive, but extremely reliable, strong, safe, and very easy to use.

http://www.phoenixcontact.com/usa_home.htm

I design new consumer, broadcast, automotive, medical, industrial, and Ham radio equipment. Everything I design uses either European style barrier blocks or Phoenix style connectors. I have not used a power pole in anything yet.


Tom
 
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