Pan Pastels Review


Genetk44

Active Member
[h=3]Pan Pastels[/h]

One of the things I really enjoy about model railroading is testing my abilities and testing myself.
I keep seeing modellers on various forums saying they are afraid to try this or that for fear of either damaging or ruining something or just failing at it. I decided early on in my modelling that if I wanted to try something that was new for me I would. with no fear or favour.

As an example, when I finally decided to try my first hard-wire DCC decoder install, I chose to install it in one of my smallest locos, an 00 gauge Hornby Terrier. My thinking being that if I could do a successful hardwire install in such a small loco then any other installs would be a breeze. Well it was successful, the loco ran perfectly and my self-confidence rose way up.... and I have never, ever avoided a hard-wire install since then.

With that sense of self-testing and experimentation in mind I'm always open to trying new products and techniques and since I really enjoy weathering models I tend to gravitate to new products.

Over the past few months I've heard a number of modellers on various forums talking very highly about Pan Pastels. I first started using pastels in my armour-modelling days back in the 1970s, no dedicated weathering powders like Bragdons or Migs back then.

In recent years my preferred powder has been Bragdons, which I believe is a very good product and it holds well to the plastics, resin and wood of todays models. My curiosity got the better of me and I ordered some Pan Pastels from my local art-store.




This is one set I ordered...it is a 10-colour set consisting of the following colours.... Titanium White, Hansa Yellow, Yellow Ochre, Permanent Red, Violet, Ultramarine Blue, Phthalo Green, Burnt Sienna, Raw Umber, Black and some soft applicators....all in shallow screw together plastic pans.


81RRZ1eN9tL._SL1500_.jpg





I also ordered this 5-pack of Extra-Dark Colours which consists of the following colours..Oxide Green Extra Dark, Ultramarine Blue Extra Dark, Violet Extra Dark, Permanent Red Extra Dark, Hansa Yellow Extra Dark.
















As you can see from the photos there are a few colours that either will never be used or used very rarely. You can order the colours individually and I believe there is a 5-pack called Dark Earth Colours that would be excellent for weathering.



So my next step is to go ahead and actually use them to weather a freight-car. This one as a matter of fact,
https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=4051751088520098809#editor/target=post;postID=4730645204565786981;onPublishedMenu=allposts;onClosedMenu=allposts;postNum=7;src=postname

This is an Athearn 40ft. boxcar with Youngstown doors.




First steps were to remove the truck/wheel assemblies and the couplers and then spray the body and the trucks with DullCote. I always do this as a precursor so as to give a bit of "tooth" to the plastic for the subsequent layers of paint and/or powders to get a good grip. It's especially helpful with the trucks.

Then, using this small handled applicator that comes with the set, I just started dabbing spots of black along the sides at the roofline and drawing them down to the bottom of the sides. I applied slightly thicker amounts on panel seams and areas that I thought would get dirtier such as the doors and handles/ladders. I applied some rust coloured pastel to the springs and one truck and finished off by giving a coat of DullCote over the pastels. I was pleasantly surprised to see that the DullCote did not seem to tone down or disappear these pastels as it often does with other powders etc.



10 minutes at most and this is the result.











So...final analysis....I really really like these pastels and I'll probably be using them as my primary weathering powders from now on. They go on neatly and colour well and hold well to the model and don't fade when DullCoted. I'm not crazy about the containers they come in but they are ok, not great.
I probably wouldn't bother buying the sets except maybe the Dark Earth sets, then buy other colours individually as needed.
Recommended.
 
Very helpful. Is the applicator like a sponge? Is the consistancy of the pastel like a paste or more powdery? Does it seem to be oily or dry?
 
Dave...the applicators seems like very fine closed cell sponge material...they seem to be typical ladies makeup applicators like you can buy at the drugstore. The pastels are more powdery than paste but not as powdery as Bragdons powders...not oily to the touch. I think they are made in Germany.
 
The reason I asked is because I purchased some oil based pastel sticks that look like chalk sticks. I thought they were acrylic because I didn't read the label very well. I find it difficult to get rid of the brush marks, the article I read advised using a hog bristle brush.

I think your type of applicator would work, however. Maybe my wife has something I can try.

THANKS for the quick reply!
 
Thanks for the info. I will have to try this. Years ago I used to use the applicator that I got from my wife for her eye makeup. It worked well. I also used to use black artist chalk and a hard tipped brush to show streaks where soot would have run down the side of a car from the roof and then give the lower part of the car a light dusting of "mud" with an air brush.

IMAG0265.jpg

NICE JOB.
 
I normally use one of these type of make-up brushes to apply powders like Bragdons.
image.jpg They come in various sizes, very soft bristles. The applicators that come with the Pan Pastels are more spongelike...I used both types on this car.
 
I have been using these pastels for a while now. The consistency is kind of like womens makeup. It feels a bit greasy but isn't. To me it feels like powdered graphite. They work very well for all kinds of weathering. Those bright reds and yellows come in handier than you think. They work really well for dulling the finish on a car in a hurry. They stick very well and will work for this purpose without dullcoating the car first. Just brush a bit of that red on your caboose or other red car and it will dull it out and make it look better in a few minutes work.I don't Dullcote any of my cars after using the pastels, becuase my cars don't get handled much. I do dullcoat before I start weathering. The pastel needs the rougher surface of the clear, to stick properly. I use all kinds of brushes with these pastels to do different things. I use a big brush like the one in the previous post, for blending and softening the pastels and use smaller brushes for applying the dirt and rust colors. It is very easy to blend and shade, the colors seem more realistic as well as the texture. If you want to dullcoat after weathering(which is a good idea if you handle them frequently) the colors don't disappear like they do when using powders. I think it is a great product. Best I have used by far.
Logandsawman, Those oil pastels don't work for weathering. They are greasy and stay that way. Much to thick and they will never dry in a reasonable time. Many of them dry with a shine as well. You have to use a powder or chalk. Find something that will wash the oil pastel off your model and get yourself some weathering powders or better yet a few Pan Pastels. I have seen sets especially for weathering, but you can get by with about 5 colors. Nice thing is, they are very forgiving. Make a mistake you can get it off and try again.
 
RLundy...I agree with everything you said...I always DullCote before weathering...it gives " tooth" to the model for the pastels to grab onto. Unfortunately I have to handle my models to carry them back and forth to the club and shows, so they always get DullCoted after they are weathered...but as you said it does not fade or ruin the Pan pastel weathering.
 
)Logandsawman, Those oil pastels don't work for weathering. They are greasy and stay that way. Much to thick and they will never dry in a reasonable time. Many of them dry with a shine as well. You have to use a powder or chalk. .

I have a wide variety of products that I use for weathering. The oil pastels were mentioned in a Klambach publication on weathering. They recommended rubbing the oil pastel on sandpaper and picking up a small amount on a hog bristle brush. I don't mind experimenting with several products.

I used washes on a lot of my older stock. I think it looks realistic for older rolling stock. I also have the 4 pack assortment of Bar Mills weathering powders. I find these to be very effective. The "rust" colors I mix with a small amount of khaki acrylic paint and water and apply with a small brush to get realistic rusty effects.

My era is transition and I look at the year built on the car before I start any weathering. Many were built in the late 50's and probably wouldn't have rust or be very heavily weathered. This is where the airbrush really shines, it can put on a light coat of dust.

It seems like weathering is a very personal thing. Many cars I see are over done, yet get lots of kudos.

Here is a locomotive I weathered using the oil pastels and the technique prescribed in the Klambach publication:

Bringing logs.jpg.jpg

I won't be redoing this loco as suggested and find the oil pastels adhere well. There is no dull cote applied.

I like the looks of the loco, it was repainted flat black rattle can and gray oil pastels applied. I am not happy with the loco wheels but did not put any time into them, either.

It is a $10 loco, an old Mantua unit. The tender trucks are treated with the Bar Mills rust powders mixed with the watered down khaki acrylics.

The greatest diffuculty I have is getting good color photography of the 1950's rolling stock as a guide. The lighting plays a huge role in the appearance of both the prototype in the original photograph and how the finished product looks.
 
You can find a lot of great products to use to apply weathering pains and powders in the ladies cosmetic isle at WalMart or such store. I get the little sponges they have and love to rip them apart to apply materials to my models.

Oh, it takes a real man to walk in the ladies cosmetic isle and shop. LOL I love the look I get but really don't care. One time I said to a lady "can you believe my wife trusted me to shop for her". LOL she didn't know what to say to me. Mostly they just keep their distance from me. LOL

Enjoy!
Dave
 
You can find a lot of great products to use to apply weathering pains and powders in the ladies cosmetic isle at WalMart or such store. I get the little sponges they have and love to rip them apart to apply materials to my models.

Oh, it takes a real man to walk in the ladies cosmetic isle and shop. LOL I love the look I get but really don't care. One time I said to a lady "can you believe my wife trusted me to shop for her". LOL she didn't know what to say to me. Mostly they just keep their distance from me. LOL

Enjoy!
Dave

Funny you would mention that we were at walmart yesterday and I remembered about the weathering project just as we were leaving. I asked my wife if she had any of those sponges and she said I could go back in and get one, they probably would have them in separate packaging. Maybe on our next visit.
 
I did a review of these a while back, which is here: http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...itle/colorfin-pan-pastel-weathering-set/cat/5

One thing I've found after using them a while: You get much better control of what you are doing with decent paint brushes as opposed to the sponges or cue tips. Get yourself a decent stippler or "Deerfoot" brush or two, a good blending brush and some smaller round and flat brushes. Keep them separate and use them just for dry media. It makes getting into air filter grilles and so forth much easier. I also use them in conjunction with artists oils, say for an Alco with a really dirty exhaust area. Pastel, oil paint (lamp black), them more pastel. The results are excellent.
 
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I did a review of these a while back, which is here: http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/...itle/colorfin-pan-pastel-weathering-set/cat/5

One thing I've found after using them a while: You get much better control of what you are doing with decent paint brushes as opposed to the sponges or cue tips. Get yourself a decent stippler or "Deerfoot" brush or two, a good blending brush and some smaller round and flat brushes. Keep them separate and use them just for dry media. It makes getting into air filter grilles and so forth much easier. I also use them in conjunction with artists oils, say for an Alco with a really dirty exhaust area. Pastel, oil paint (lamp black), them more pastel. The results are excellent.


Sorry I missed your review...it would have saved me the time and effort That being said I definately agree with your comments here and in your review.

Gene
 
Maybe MR will do a cartoon in the back pages of their mag of all these guys wearing engineers hats buying up big in the local mall's make-up shops.
 
And while you're in the makeup aisle at Walmart, pick up a variety of nail buffs. They work great on both wood and plastic.

What are the nail buffs used for? I know I also like to use nail files (emery boards) for a lot of my sanding needs when building models but the nail buffs, not sure about that one.

Dave
 
Nail buffs are like emery boards on steroids. Most are about 1" x 6", more flexible than an emery board, and range in grit from about 120 to over 4000. They are used just as you would a file or an emery board.
 
At the risk of sounding cheap... I just Googled "where can I purchase Pan Pastels" I was surprised at the prices. Although I well understand that you get what you pay for and these sound like they would give some great results. I am getting ready to experiment with weathering rolling stock and structures. I was going to try airbrushing but the more I read about using chalks and pastels... I am liking that "textured" look from chalk/pastel that you get especially in the rust colors. Does anyone know of any cheaper pastels that I can experiment with before spending the big bucks on my credit card that my wife does not know about yet :rolleyes:

I wonder if Amazon has lawyers .... might need one when she does find that credit card.
 



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