Lifelike SW9 DC to DCC Conversion


I recently purchased a LifeLike Proto 2000 series SW9 locomotive and want to convert it to DCC with sound. I think I'm going to go with the Soundtraxx Tsunami "TSU-AT1000 for ALCO 539 Turbocharged"

Here is the locomotive:
Wy93N.jpg


And here is the locomotive with shell removed showing original 21.1x47mm circuit board which I'm going to replace:
dhZoE.jpg


My only concern is what size speaker should I get and where to place it. I realize that I may very well have to remove the engine's weight from the front of the locomotive. The weight itself is 21.7w X 9h X 33.5l mm. Where can I get a speaker to fit the space that won't sound horrid. If I'm going to spend the money on a tsunami I want it to sound good as well.

On a side note relating to the loco shell, the rails along the side are wavy, is it just because the engine is likely old? and how should I go about straightening them?

Thanks!
 
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Being an audiophile in N scale, I don't know much about HO decoders, but the correct prime mover for this unit is some variation of a non-turbo EMD 567 - If you haven't bought the decoder yet, look around for the correct one first.
 
Being an audiophile in N scale, I don't know much about HO decoders, but the correct prime mover for this unit is some variation of a non-turbo EMD 567 - If you haven't bought the decoder yet, look around for the correct one first.

I figured someone would call me out on that; I'm torn between the prototypical sound which is the same as a gp9, or the sound I love which is the turbo version of the same engine... that will probably come down to the day I order the parts. :D

Any decent links on where to get the appropriate speakers would be greatly appreciated though!

Thanks!
 
Regarding the warped handrails - in cases like that, I usually replace them with wire. Nip off the mounting lugs from the handrail casting and drill them out to accept a fine piece of wire and re-install. Yes, it's tedious, but guaranteed to give you permanently straight handrails.

Another method I've tried with limited success .... sometimes works, sometimes doesn't - warm them with a hairdryer (you'll probably see them all warp), then immediately stick it in the freezer. What you are doing is working on the expansion / contraction aspects of the plastic. When they were made, they were correct and do have some sort of memory. What you are doing is forcing the plastic to find that memory point again. By repeatedly heating and cooling, the plastic may find its original state again.

Again, this doesn't always work. My results have been about 50:50. Worth a shot first.


Mark.
 
SO, I've decided to go with the standard EMD567 Engine sound, no turbo, in order to stay within prototype. However; in deciding which decoder to use, I know I want to use a Tsunami 1000 series; but which one should I use? the TSU-1000 or one of the more specific brand type decoders like the AT1000 or GN1000? I can't seem to find which one will work best with a pre-DCC proto 2000 model locomotive. :confused:

As for the rails, I tihnk I'll use the thin wire method, I've worked with tiny things before, I try it again with this. Thanks!:)
 
I'm doing the same conversion soon but in N scale so I won't have room for a speaker. I barely have room for the decoder itself - apparently I have to remove the weight to fit the decoder in there. The decoder is being shipped and is in transit as I write this.
 
Well great news, all of the parts have come in! I'm going to start wiring this in as soon as I can. I have one question though: does anyone have any tips/tutorials on how to keep the wiring taught/tight within the compartment space? There are going to be a number of wires running through here, and I'd like to be able to keep everything extremely tight (it's an HO switcher...). Please let me know, and wish me luck!

sS5uU.jpg

Brass cleaner, fine soldering tips, Kapton tape,
Soundtraxx EMD-567 & Soundtraxx 8-Ohm speaker


Merry Christmas!:D
 
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