KATO SD90/43MAC help!


Trucklover

Trucklover

BNSF SD70MAC's
I cannot for the life of me get the screws off that hold the couplers in place. I have never re-moved them, and the engine was brand new when i got it, i applied all the details and everything a while back, now i wanted to try and replace the couplers and open up the shell, and i cannot loosen the screws that mount the couplers in place. They are so dang tight from the factory, they just wont budge. I even tried to put the screw driver in my power drill and it just wont come loose, its just stripping.... Its almost like there welded in place or something, and its really frustrating!

What should i do? Should i contact KATO? Can anyone suggest something to do? The screw on the front of the loco is kinda stripped now, and the rear one is also a little stripped :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:
 
I have the exact same problem with my cp sd90. I want to get at the decoder, but i dont strip the screws. They wont budge!!! :mad:
 
I got an idea from someone on another forum i posted this on, he said to heat it with a soldering iron and then try it again. He said they might have used Thread Lock on it and this one may have gotten to much. If this doesnt work, im going to go to KATO for advise....
 
I seem to remember something about the coupler mounting screws being installed while the paint on the model was not completely dry. This would cause the screws to stick. An alternative to the soldering iron trick is to cut a slot in the head of the screw with a cutoff wheel in a Dremel tool, and using a slotted screwdriver to get a better "bite" on the screw.
 
Hey thanks for the reply Terry :D

Ill have to give this a shot too. I just dont want to get to the point where the screw is completely screwed up and then i have to drill it out, and tap new threads in it :rolleyes: :mad: lol
 
Trucklover said:
Hey thanks for the reply Terry :D

Ill have to give this a shot too. I just dont want to get to the point where the screw is completely screwed up and then i have to drill it out, and tap new threads in it :rolleyes: :mad: lol
Click to expand...
If that happens, after removing the old screw, put a drop of CA in the hole, and thread a new screw into the hole. The CA will hold the screw, and you should be able to unscrew it if needed.
 
Let me know what works for you and I'll give it a try. I wont get to it for a while, but id love to know the outcome! Thanks
 
I have run into this on several of the Kato engines I have worked on.
The ones I have seen use a self threading screw. I have busted one off and you really dont what to go there. Without a mill and spotting bits it is very difficult to keep the drill from wandering into the soft frame. I have had ok luck with heating the frame and rocking the screw back and forth backing it out a little till it will screw out. Best of luck to ya Bob
 
No one mentioned whether this was the N or HO scale version.
Anyways, some manufacturers use a non-threaded pin to hold the couplers draft gear boxes in place that has either a straight slot or Philips head cross slots. Bugged the daylights out of me until I figured it out - the doggone thing just kept spinning and wouldn't come out!
 
I have had trouble on occasion with Kato screws but I finally got a screwdriver to fit right into the screw. No more problems.
 
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