Kato melt down


Scott75atm

New Member
Hi,

Just getting back into this hobby after 50 plus years. I bought new, my first Kato engine, a Tram (14-805-2). I run it with a Tech II Railpower 1400. It has all of less that 5 or so hours of careful operation. The control was always putting out no more than 9v. This on a simple point-to-point track, Atlas code 80.
All was great until it seemed like it was slowing down very gradually, almost imperceptible until it wasn't. On inspection I found one of the wheels on one side of an axial had what first appeared to be clear glue between its inner side of the wheel and the truck. Then I noticed that the truck itself had melted and formed a bubble on its outside and that the body was beginning to melt!
So that's the problem, is it common with Kato engines? Has anyone else had this problem? Do I send it back to the dealer or is there a Kato service center?

Thanks for all help,

Scott
 
First - I have only ever run Kato engines and have never had an issue with one that wasn't my fault. That being said, there is always the possibility of getting the very odd bad one.

I would first contact the seller and let them know, IF you bought it from a retailer, and if they are reputable and it hasn't been too long then I would think they would replace it for you OR give you a refund. If they refuse to play ball with you then yes, call Kato and they have a very good Service and Repair Section, just google Kato USA.
 
So that's the problem, is it common with Kato engines? Has anyone else had this problem? Do I send it back to the dealer or is there a Kato service center?
The "Trams" are way different type of equipment then I have ever run, so can't speak to being a common problem or not. Definitely sounds like a manufacture defect of some sort. Definitely return to vendor or directly back to Kato for warranty service.
 
I think the trams run on the kato 11-109 chassis dont they?. I have bought 4 of these so far (I have 2 of the steeple cab diesels, a steam train (where the passenger carriage is the loco) and a blank chassis i am going to design something on.
I have had no problem with these so far and are as smooth as silk when they run super slowly.
As has been said maybe you got a dud, but i would wager that must be pretty rare as the Japanese are hell bent on QC.
Is it possible the controller (if not Kato) is giving out some wierd voltage pulses that make the motor get hot or something? :/

Edit: Actually it appears the trams (or some of them?) run on a Kato 11-103 like this:
https://katongauge.com/product/tram-chassis-unit/
"This Chassis Is generally the same engine fitted to the majority of Kato’s & Lemke Trams."
But if it is still soon enough then as was said contact their support.
 
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Is it possible that your loco was drawing more amperage than usual? I have heard this can happen if the locomotive causes a short, but the short doesn't get recognized by the controller in time to shut it down. I'm not good with electricity, but it had to do with not having adequate feeders to the track, which causes a lot of resistance, and that resistance kind of "cloaks" the short.

Are you able to read Amp draw instead of voltage?

People use the term "quarter test" which means to force a short with a quarter on the track at various places, and then be sure the controller shuts itself down accordingly. If it doesn't, then you need more power feeds to the track. I believe the other way is to tests AMP draw not just voltage.
 
I have Inhave over a dozen Kato trains and no issues at all. But have also set up a unitram display and this week have had two new unitrams break. Exactly the same issue with both. Ran then correctly maybe an hour in total on and off, suddenly very high pitched sound and no movement. An older tam purchased no issue with so i wonder If a faulty batch
 



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