When you get started, you need to experiment quite a bit. I have found that it's necessary to get the paint rather thin, something like milk. This will prevent clogging. Then, with a light touch you can apply the paint without excess and prevent any runs.
just got a airbrush
- Thread starter marriedshades
- Start date
When you get started, you need to experiment quite a bit. I have found that it's necessary to get the paint rather thin, something like milk. This will prevent clogging. Then, with a light touch you can apply the paint without excess and prevent any runs.
marriedshades
Member
I thinned my paint the airbrush had trouble picking it up plan on replacing the regulator when i have the money compressor working fine requlator froze in one point short of hitti.g it with a hammer it don't want to turn
Alan Curtis
Member
I have nearly always used Badger airbrushes over many years, and have had pretty good service from them. Not used my current one for 4 or 5 years, so I may have to re-learn the technique as I need to start repainting my roster.
As has been said, cleaning is VERY important, and to do it immediately after finishing spraying. I always an aerosol of Airbrush Cleaner, so quick, easy, economical and very effective. A little burst into the cup whilst blowing air through and it cleans beautifully. Then a dismantle to check all parts are clean before storing.
As has been said, cleaning is VERY important, and to do it immediately after finishing spraying. I always an aerosol of Airbrush Cleaner, so quick, easy, economical and very effective. A little burst into the cup whilst blowing air through and it cleans beautifully. Then a dismantle to check all parts are clean before storing.
Beginners should stick with paint that is formulated for spraying. Build yourself some skills, then start experimenting. Craft paints are meant for brushing. Some do thin them for spraying. It isn't impossible, but brush paints have coarser pigments (bigger particles) that can give your airbrush problems. The milk rule is great. I use it myself.
Have you tried picking up the regulator knob? Some lock in place. Grab the regulator with one hand. Lift the knob with your other hand until it pops up and you hear a click, then adjust it to where you want it and push it back down. It will lock in place.
goscrewyourselves
I'm the one
Thought I would add what I (unintentionally) did yesterday to my airbrush so other new guys might not make the same mistake.
I am using two types of paint, Model Master (Acrylic) and Tru Color (Solvent). Anyway, I re undercoated my engine with Tru Color Primer, and it went on beautifully! Then sprayed a white line around the engine, also using Tru Color paint. Left it all to dry for quite some time and went over the entire engine with Model Master Pale Green.
So what was the "mistake"? I discovered, a little late, that Thinning an Acrylic Paint with a Solvent Thinner doesn't work one little bit. Not only does it wreck the paint but almost ruined my airbrush, not to mention the engine) to the point where it took me almost 2 hours to strip it down (completely) and get it all back together so it worked again.
Moral of the story - keep your Acrylics and Solvents well clear of each other and be very aware of what paint you are using BEFORE thinning it.
I am using two types of paint, Model Master (Acrylic) and Tru Color (Solvent). Anyway, I re undercoated my engine with Tru Color Primer, and it went on beautifully! Then sprayed a white line around the engine, also using Tru Color paint. Left it all to dry for quite some time and went over the entire engine with Model Master Pale Green.
So what was the "mistake"? I discovered, a little late, that Thinning an Acrylic Paint with a Solvent Thinner doesn't work one little bit. Not only does it wreck the paint but almost ruined my airbrush, not to mention the engine) to the point where it took me almost 2 hours to strip it down (completely) and get it all back together so it worked again.
Moral of the story - keep your Acrylics and Solvents well clear of each other and be very aware of what paint you are using BEFORE thinning it.
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goscrewyourselves
I'm the one
Think I have the solution to getting paint thinning spot on! Used food dye colored milk!!!! 
Hmm, wait - is there a texture difference between full cream, 2%, low fat, no fat, saturated, unsaturated, poly saturated, high fiber, low fiber, no fiber, lo cal milk???????
Would you recommend using moo juice (milk - for non Aussies) or goat juice??? What differences, if any, are there between the two in terms of spray ability???
If so, do I need to add additives or reducers to attain the right consistency????
Okay, bad attempt at humor, sorry
Hmm, wait - is there a texture difference between full cream, 2%, low fat, no fat, saturated, unsaturated, poly saturated, high fiber, low fiber, no fiber, lo cal milk???????
Would you recommend using moo juice (milk - for non Aussies) or goat juice??? What differences, if any, are there between the two in terms of spray ability???
If so, do I need to add additives or reducers to attain the right consistency????
Okay, bad attempt at humor, sorry
Charles Smiley
cspmovies
I eventually sprayed Floquil with no thinner.
It was a practice I held for decades. If it was fully stirred I found I got better results un-cut. It usually took a few more PSI but the paint had less of a satin/gloss look to it.
If I wanted a final satin finish, I put a top coat of "Flat Finish" on it the next day. For decaled areas another coat of "Gloss" was in order the next day.
Now I'm running out of Floquil and will soon have to adapt to something new.
It was a practice I held for decades. If it was fully stirred I found I got better results un-cut. It usually took a few more PSI but the paint had less of a satin/gloss look to it.
If I wanted a final satin finish, I put a top coat of "Flat Finish" on it the next day. For decaled areas another coat of "Gloss" was in order the next day.
Now I'm running out of Floquil and will soon have to adapt to something new.
I just scored a lightly used Iwata HP-C for $54! I am really looking forward to improving my painting and weathering with this major upgrade. I've got two custom locomotive projects to do in the next few months, and I wanted to upgrade my brush. I've got a lot of practicing to do before I aim the new brush at my projects.
Brad
Brad
Charles Smiley
cspmovies
After several Binks and Paashce airbrushes I finally bought a Iwata -- based on what they told me at Continental Art store in Reseda, CA. Normally, I won't buy foreign-made stuff if an acceptable US equivalent is available. But I'm glad I made an exception on this one.
The Iwata is pricey but never sputters and has a good measure of finesse in controlling the paint. They like to be cleaned a lot though. I immerse the brush in a small bucket of thinner and use 40-psi to do the preliminary cleaning and then take it all apart and clean things one piece at a time. Don't bend or drop that needle-rod!
The Iwata is pricey but never sputters and has a good measure of finesse in controlling the paint. They like to be cleaned a lot though. I immerse the brush in a small bucket of thinner and use 40-psi to do the preliminary cleaning and then take it all apart and clean things one piece at a time. Don't bend or drop that needle-rod!
goscrewyourselves
I'm the one
Have to be honest here. My, only used 4 or 5 times Paasche Air brush AND Compressor has died! As such, I am ow looking at a Harder Steenbeck Airbrush with an Iwata compressor.
To be a little more honest, if a European item is available, I will buy it in preference to most other makes.
To be a little more honest, if a European item is available, I will buy it in preference to most other makes.
Consider carefully. Harder & Steenbeck are very nice, however the needles & nozzles are very fragile. The Iwata uses surgical stainless steel for these parts, so they are much more durable. You can't beat Iwata for quality. You won't buy many parts either.
goscrewyourselves
I'm the one
Thanks for the advice Alan. As said, I am only considering the Harder and Steenbeck and I did hear that their needles were not as strong as others. I haven't looked at Iwata, but might just do that now.
You could'a knocked me down with a feather today. Wife was browsing the latest Aldi store catalogue (German grocery and other stuff chain) today, when she says "Here's something you could do with for your trains" . An airbrush set comprising a small compressor and 2 dual action airbrushes (suction and gravity) for a cent under a 100 bucks.
I've got a 12cu ft per/min compressor from my building days that I'd been intending to adapt an A/brush to (overkill I know) using a reducer to attach the hose. Was going to experiment first with my auto touch up gun on a couple of Bachman box cars that no-one has wanted to buy at the sale days (once again probably overkill). Also bumped into the guy that told us about the Rustoleum primer being available here now and found out that Tru-Color is being imported by a NSW agent and he had previously told where to get 100% iso-propyl alcohol in Brisbane (he said just dilute with water to get other %ages as need be). Strongest available before was 70% rubbing stuff from Pharmacies.
I'm still pinching myself and only hope the mood doesn't change 'tween now and 8 AM Sat morning when these $100 ones go on sale. I figure, why not, they've got a 3 year warranty and they'll be good to get the feel of proper airbrushes. I'm only going to be doing 2 tone repaints and light weathering.
Hope the iron stays hot.
. An airbrush set comprising a small compressor and 2 dual action airbrushes (suction and gravity) for a cent under a 100 bucks. I've got a 12cu ft per/min compressor from my building days that I'd been intending to adapt an A/brush to (overkill I know) using a reducer to attach the hose. Was going to experiment first with my auto touch up gun on a couple of Bachman box cars that no-one has wanted to buy at the sale days (once again probably overkill). Also bumped into the guy that told us about the Rustoleum primer being available here now and found out that Tru-Color is being imported by a NSW agent and he had previously told where to get 100% iso-propyl alcohol in Brisbane (he said just dilute with water to get other %ages as need be). Strongest available before was 70% rubbing stuff from Pharmacies.
I'm still pinching myself and only hope the mood doesn't change 'tween now and 8 AM Sat morning when these $100 ones go on sale. I figure, why not, they've got a 3 year warranty and they'll be good to get the feel of proper airbrushes. I'm only going to be doing 2 tone repaints and light weathering.
Hope the iron stays hot.
goscrewyourselves
I'm the one
Darn Toot'n, I'll have to take a look in our local Aldi Store and see if we are as fortunate. For $100, you really can't go wrong. Nice find.
marriedshades
Member
Tootn if my wife told me about a deal like that i would held out my hand and said so why didn't you get it
What are you using the alcohol for ? Don't use it to thin the TruColor paint !
Mark.
Aldi has specials Wed & Sat. This ones not "out' till this Sat. So on tenterhooks (the iron has also cooled a bit).
