Issues in restarting Hobby, Old Euro stuff


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Ceresco2063

New Member
I have just unpacked a N-guage collection that has not seen the light of day since 1985. This was my layout and project while I was stationed in Germany in the early 80's.
All the track was useless, but the German power units still worked, tested on KATO straight sections, a combination of Arnold, Mini-Trix, Fleishman, and ROCO.

Now comes the problem, I settled on KATO track based on my failing eyesight and the no need to hand ballast, as well as the options available.
Now the old wide and deep flanged 'pizza cutter' wheels on the older equipment does not handle modern turnouts well at all. Will pass a #4 KATO turnout 40% of the time without derailing, will pass a #6 KATO turnout 80% of the time without derailing. Bought an Atlas 80 turnout and also have a high fail rate. The old mini-trix turnout no problems, but according to TRIX they also changed their rail profile since the 80's.

Wheels on the power units are metal with some traction tires and appears can not be replaced easily or at all. Used a small file to lower the plastic turnout pin that throws the rail, did not work, and no matter how tight the pressure between the throw rail and main rail is, the wheels will eventually go between and derail before power unit totally passes. Wheels do not contact the rail to tie connections, just the turnouts and any 'frog' assembly. Can change to 'modern wheels' on passengers and freight cars, power units doubtfull.

Any suggestions? Would love to use Euro as my theme, but if have to go to US not really an issue.
 
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I'm fairly new to N scale, but here's a couple ideas I have which may get those trains on the right track, literally.

1). I know that their HO counterparts have received bad reviews, but have you experimented with a Bachmann N scale EZ Track turnout? That track is generally meant for beginners and may be nicer to the older "pizza cutter" flanges.

2). Would it be possible to ever so slightly narrow the gauge of the locomotive wheels? It sounds like, even with a good contact between the main rails and the points, that the trains are still "splitting the switch". Narrowing the gauge of the wheelsets may relieve that pressure which forces the wheels to split the switch just enough to convince the train to take the desired track.
 
Just back from local RR shop. We tried Bachmann EZ track turnouts, same issue, same measured rail profile, so we were stumped. The 'wobble' of the current power unit wheels mean they are already narrow enough, as there is a very small but you can see it 'wobble', as it travels down track. And we measured, distance from rail to rail then flange to flange, enough clearence, so the wheel flat to flange is narrow enough where flanges are not forced up against rails, or riding wheel up on rail. I now believe it is that wobble that causes some of the issue.

May micro braze a thin brass 'guide' so wheel flange is pushed away from main rail at the throw and 'bounces' a little against opposite rail, may keep wheel flange from splitting the switch. I believe there is enough wobble to do it.

Ideas?
 
If it's the height of the flanges causing problems I doubt changing the gauge on the wheels would do anything, apart from likely cause derailment issues elsewhere. The brass guide you mentioned would probably work, but it'd be very fiddly to work with.

Anyhoo, I think I may have a solution to your problem. I use Peco Code 80 turnouts, but when first starting out I bought some Atlas ones. I quickly deemed these to be horrible but I still have one on my test layout that I've never bothered to replace. As luck would have it I also have some old Roco-made Atlas hoppers dating back to the late '60s, and you better believe they had pizza cutters. :eek: The trucks were replaced long ago, but I still had the old ones in my parts bin so I popped the wheels into a truck with knuckles and made a comparison video for you. Best watched in HD on YouTube.

[youtube]fKxlkcejjcg[/youtube]

The first two turnouts in the yard are Peco #6 Streamline Insulfrog switches, the third one that leads out onto the mainline is an Atlas Snapswitch. Ignore the bumps over joiners, that's just because I constructed that yard in about 30sec. :p Peco also make these switches in #4, #8, and some curved ones that I think are also #8. I own all except the #4 and they behave the same as the ones in the video. If you want to compare the size of the flanges to what you have, the ones in this video are from this car.

Hope this helps. :)
 
Thx, for vid, the flange skip is what I deal with on the metal wheels of loco's. Already changed all the rolling stock to more modern wheels no issues. According to Trix, and ROCO wheels on loco's can not be changed and design changes means I just can not replace trucks on the older equipment.

The #4 turnout issue is solved with the brass wedge, and a slight dremel cut in the frogs. The switch throw rail is a one piece metal 'H' with no rise in middel of H for actuating arm. 100% success even at speed.

The #6 turnout still skips even with wedge, 40% failure going straight through even at creep , 90% success taking turn off, creep and at speed. The switch throw rail is also an 'H' but with a big dimple center of 'H' where actuator arm is, and considerable loose movement. I guess there is not enough pressure against main rail to stay tight enough.

So I guess I am going to be limited to modified #4's and I will use the #6's (so far only 4) in freight yard area.

Been a busy and frustrating 2nd day.
 
That was my other thought, to grind the flanges down with sandpaper! For a steamer it would be easy to place the engine on a piece of sandpaper, tender on a piece of track for pickup, then hold the loco in place and crank the power. Using Peco turnouts is the safer, if not more costly option however.
 
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