I Need Some Ideas For Making A Control Panel

[Marlin338MX]

I'm at the point in my layout build where I need to design and build a control panel for all of my Atlas DC switches, controllers, and 2 or 3 power packs.

I plan on mounting a piece of plywood on a pair of heavy duty drawer slides, so that I can pull the panel out like a drawer when I run trains, and slide the control panel back under the benchwork when I'm not running trains.

I have 30 Atlas remote switches to wire, and I think I need around 20 separate blocks, plus wiring the turntable tracks and motor.

I've completely rewired my 23ft aluminum fishing boat with all new fish finders, downriggers, an autopilot, etc, so I have a basic understanding of electricity, but I have never wired a model railroad layout.

I'm looking for some tips, ideas, do's, don'ts, and maybe posting some pics of your control panels, because I'm more of a visual and hands-on kind of learner. Just a reminder, my layout is all DC, with (almost) no chance of converting over to DCC in the future.

I'll attach a pic of my track plan from my cell phone shortly...

Thanks in advance!

 

[Marlin338MX]

The outer loop is for passenger trains, and the inner loop is for freight trains.

 

[Marlin338MX]

There is a middle loop on the right side of the layout, shown in green. This will be an extra siding for a Santa Fe passenger train and depot.

 

[Marlin338MX]

I forgot to mention that I own a copy of the Atlas wiring book. My turntable is the Atlas brand.

 

[Marlin338MX]

I got the 24" drawer slides mounted today. It took about 6 hours to figure out where and how to hang them under my benchwork, and install them. This is yet another task I have never planned or attempted before., so I took my time. I still need to buy several more bolts so I can mount the horizontal boards to the vertical 2x4's.

The width between the slides is 40 5/8", so that's how wide my control panel will be. It will be 24" deep from front to back. I hope to have this control panel assembly finished by this weekend.

 

[D&J RailRoad]

I would tend to think that running your railroad from one perspective, i.e. control panel will defeat your purpose of modeling.
Being at the point of activity, i.e. a thrown turnout to a siding to manage the activity would be interrupted by having to go back to a control panel to toggle a turnout. Breaking a train apart to drop cars at a siding requires you to be at the siding with an uncoupling tool. Yeah, you can always use magnetic uncoupling ramps, but only the purest among us has consistent success in those always working.

 

[santafewillie]

A few questions:
1) Where is the panel located?
2) Is this layout against the wall or free-standing?
3) Where is the power supply/rheostat?
4) How many trains do you plan on running at once?

Now a little background information on the Atlas components:
#205 Connectors, simply turns power on and off to three blocks. They can be connected to each other with lugs on the ends so everything can run off the same power supply terminals.
#215 Selectors do the same thing, but give the option of choosing from two different power supplies. They will control four blocks each and are also able to be connected to one another.
#219 Twins are used to reverse the polarity of the electrical connections, mainly used for layouts with reversing sections. These will control two blocks and as with other components will connect with each other. They can also be used for turntable electrical track control.
#220 Controllers are also used like the #219 Twins, but offer more versatility. Can also be used with turntables.
#056 Switch Controllers are used to control switch direction. They do not normally power track sections since they are momentary contact only.

Controllers and Selectors line up with each other and can be connected via the connecting lugs.

I don't see any reversing loops on your layout, so that simplifies things. If you're only using one power pack/rheostat to control only one train at a time, all you need are Connectors to turn power off and on to each block.

I have no turntable or reverse loops so I cannot directly comment on the Twins or Controllers.

I have two power supplies that I connect to the track blocks, but I can only control one train at a time due to my attention span. The other is useful when my grandkids run on the lower level while I run on the upper level.

I use a walkaround memory throttle for one power supply, and a fixed location MRC 2400 for the other input. The power input can be from either end.

Here is a picture of Connectors that control one of the staging yards. Excuse the less than professional looking wiring. I originally had Selectors here but I ended up just using one Selector output to connect to the bank of Connectors. Note that I only use the [+] terminal on these because I use common wire [-] method of wiring. Only the bottom input and the right hand outputs are actually controlled by the on/off switches.

I do not use many switch controls because I mostly use all ground throws. There's no part of my trackwork over 24" from the aisle so all are within easy reach. Plus I use the walkaround throttle. I do have a couple of places where I use remote switches to avoid having to reach over structures. Those are located near the switches themselves.
If you could provide answers to the questions, I can offer more observations.

 

[Marlin338MX]

I would tend to think that running your railroad from one perspective, i.e. control panel will defeat your purpose of modeling.
Being at the point of activity, i.e. a thrown turnout to a siding to manage the activity would be interrupted by having to go back to a control panel to toggle a turnout. Breaking a train apart to drop cars at a siding requires you to be at the siding with an uncoupling tool. Yeah, you can always use magnetic uncoupling ramps, but only the purest among us has consistent success in those always working.

Thank you for your input and thoughts!

My switches can also be thrown manually. My initial plan is to run the wiring for the switches, but wait to hook them up to the switch control boxes (#56). If I find that I prefer throwing the switches manually, then I can leave them that way.

Being my first layout, I am facing a lot of unknowns, such as preferences, likes, dislikes, etc. I'm sure I will make many changes as my layout continues to "grow".

I have walk around access to all four sides of my layout, for switching, coupling, uncoupling, etc.

 

[Marlin338MX]

A few questions:
1) Where is the panel located?
2) Is this layout against the wall or free-standing?
3) Where is the power supply/rheostat?
4) How many trains do you plan on running at once?

Now a little background information on the Atlas components:
#205 Connectors, simply turns power on and off to three blocks. They can be connected to each other with lugs on the ends so everything can run off the same power supply terminals.
#215 Selectors do the same thing, but give the option of choosing from two different power supplies. They will control four blocks each and are also able to be connected to one another.
#219 Twins are used to reverse the polarity of the electrical connections, mainly used for layouts with reversing sections. These will control two blocks and as with other components will connect with each other. They can also be used for turntable electrical track control.
#220 Controllers are also used like the #219 Twins, but offer more versatility. Can also be used with turntables.
#056 Switch Controllers are used to control switch direction. They do not normally power track sections since they are momentary contact only.

Controllers and Selectors line up with each other and can be connected via the connecting lugs.

I don't see any reversing loops on your layout, so that simplifies things. If you're only using one power pack/rheostat to control only one train at a time, all you need are Connectors to turn power off and on to each block.

I have no turntable or reverse loops so I cannot directly comment on the Twins or Controllers.

I have two power supplies that I connect to the track blocks, but I can only control one train at a time due to my attention span. The other is useful when my grandkids run on the lower level while I run on the upper level.
View attachment 179422
I use a walkaround memory throttle for one power supply, and a fixed location MRC 2400 for the other input. The power input can be from either end.

Here is a picture of Connectors that control one of the staging yards. Excuse the less than professional looking wiring. I originally had Selectors here but I ended up just using one Selector output to connect to the bank of Connectors. Note that I only use the [+] terminal on these because I use common wire [-] method of wiring. Only the bottom input and the right hand outputs are actually controlled by the on/off switches.
View attachment 179423

I do not use many switch controls because I mostly use all ground throws. There's no part of my trackwork over 24" from the aisle so all are within easy reach. Plus I use the walkaround throttle. I do have a couple of places where I use remote switches to avoid having to reach over structures. Those are located near the switches themselves.
If you could provide answers to the questions, I can offer more observations.

Thank you for the information and examples. I'll try to answer all your questions...

My layout is free standing, with easy access to all four sides.

My control panel will be under the residential area, basically centered under the blue mark

Where this red line is

I have 4 Atlas selectors (#215), an Atlas controller (#220) and an Atlas connector (#205), plus all the switch control boxes (#56) and snap relays (#200) that came with all my Atlas remote switches. My control panel will have my controller, selectors, connector, switch control boxes and power packs mounted on it. It will be angled lower in the front, taller in the back, with a piano hinge on the top rear so I can raise the front to have access to all the wiring.

I plan on running 1 train at a time. I don't have any reversing loops.

 

[santafewillie]

OK, then some things are obvious. Use the Controller for the turntable but you'll have to consult the Atlas book for wiring instructions since I have never used one. Technically you could use Connectors for all of your blocks, but since you already have the Selectors, they can be used just like the Connectors by just using only the upper "on" and the middle "off" positions.
In post #8, you posted that you would use the Selectors for the switches; that is not what they are used for. They could be used for power to the spurs if there is an engine parked there, but not to operate switches. Use the #056 switch controls that came with the Snap Switches.
Wiring all of this through the Atlas components does not limit you to DC forever. By hooking a DCC power buss to the power inputs of all the components and turning everything "on", you can convert to DCC without any additional wiring. With the layout that you posted, you can probably use #22 or #20 gauge wire successfully. On my layout some of the blocks are as much as 85' from the control panel and I use #18 gauge wire. I leave all blocks in the "on" position until I park a locomotive somewhere; which requires a walk back to the somewhat centrally located panel. As you can see from my picture, I have 21 (of 24 available) blocks on my upper level, 18 on the lower level. I use the connectors as pictured at each of three staging yards, so I don't have to walk back to the control panel. On my old layout, I had a large panel as you are planning, with all of the Selectors, Connectors and 60 Switch Controllers lined up. I never took a picture of it so I can't show it. It was in the days before I acquired a digital camera. It was also before I got a walkaround throttle as well.
I hope that this information is helpful.

 

[Marlin338MX]

Thank you for the additional information Willie, much appreciated!

I typed the wrong information in post #8 without realizing it, so thanks for catching that. I went back and corrected it to reflect what I meant to say.

I was under the impression that I needed the selectors (215) to power my blocks, and the connector (205) to turn on accessories like lights. But I see I wasn't quite understanding how to use those devices.

I plan on keeping my locomotives on the spurs or sidings with them turned off, so I can keep the two mainlines open for the trains I am running.

Thanks again for the suggestions!

 

[J.Albert]

My opinion only.
Something that looks to be a problem with that plan above is... access.

Access to both the yard, and turntable/roundhouse...

 

[Marlin338MX]

My opinion only.
Something that looks to be a problem with that plan above is... access.

Access to both the yard, and turntable/roundhouse...

You night be right, but I think it will be ok. The layout is 6 feet wide, and I have full walk around access to all four sides. That's also why I made my control panel slide out/in like a drawer, so it wouldn't impede my access to the yard tracks from the "front" side of the layout.

 

[Marlin338MX]

I finished assembling the control panel tonight. It's 40 5/8" wide by 24" deep. It was made with scrap wood that I had laying around.

The controls, switches and power packs will be mounted here ^ on the "top"

It's 1.5" tall at the front and 4" tall at the rear

The top is hinged to give me access to the wiring under the top. The rear has two long openings for the wire routing

The boards that make up the bottom or the "floor" are 9/16" by 9.25" pine. The center 2x2 is to add rigidity to the assembly

It tucks away neatly under the benchwork

I used 24" drawer slides that are rated for 100 pounds. The two top sections that the hinge is connected to are half inch plywood. The rest of the boards are 2x2 (3 of them) and the 9/16" x 9.25" rough cut pine.

 

[Dub]

So your wires will have to move two feet every time you move it. It has to be all stranded.

The pivot point will be halfway between open and closed. With two pins the second one will slide. You can design it with three pins and no sliding. The idea is to arrange boards or pipes to hold the wires together during movement.

The lengths and angles are off. Just look at the added length for each wire needed to get it in the drawer.

As a last thought, if you bundle the wires in an S configuration you can place the tension over a longer length and not depend on a hinge type bend. Instead of running a wire from point to point Install all the necessary hardware to the panel . Then run wires out of the box beyond the flex area to a pivot point. Here the wires would be connected to terminals. When the accessory is ready, wire it to the terminal laid out for it.

 

[Marlin338MX]

Thanks for the tips and ideas Dub!

 

[Marlin338MX]

For the switches, I'd recommend color-coding your wiring to keep things organized. Also, labeling is your best friend—especially with 30 switches! Considering your boat rewiring skills, you're probably set for the basics.

Thank you!

I've got 6 colors of wire, and I really like using the terminal blocks to keep connections neat and organized. I also have labels that I'll use to label all the wires under the benchwork.

 

[Marlin338MX]

I've made some progress on my control panel. I have my 3 power packs mounted. The Railpower 1370's are for controlling the trains & track, and I'll try an older Bachmann power pack to control my remote turnouts.

So far I've wired my first 2 blocks, which are the 2 mainlines, and everything works as it should.

The railroad spike handle is for raising the lid

I still have to add 2 more Atlas selectors, which are on order.

 

[Marlin338MX]

I wired the common terminal on the Atlas controller (yellow circle) to a distribution block under the benchwork (white wire). This is where I will attach all the common wires from my 16+ blocks. The gap wires will go to the Atlas selectors.

The red circled wires are from cab A to the controller. The blue circled wires are from cab B to the controller.

The 2 selectors next to the controller are for the 7 tracks off the turntable. They will be wired last.