I Finished a Tangent 4740


el3637

Member
Kit built with Dan Kohlberg decals... 100% made in USA!
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Andy
 
Andy, very nice job!!! A bit of weathering and she'll be ready to roll.

I'm going to let the paint cure up a bit, and probably give it a semi-gloss overcoat (decals are uncoated in these pics) and let it get nice and solid before I go at it with weathering. I like using oils for weathering but they work best on top of acrylics - in other words most factory paint. But stuff I paint myself I prefer Scalecoat. So I can't start laying mineral spirits on it until it's a month old. I could but, I would have very little working time before it would start to eat the paint. And it's the loooong working time that I like best about oils.

If I could find a killer acrylic semi-gloss I could put over the Scalecoat - one I could trust consistently not to ruin the car or hide details - that would be the ticket. Just haven't done a car yet I'm willing to risk on the trial...

The other problem I have with weathering this car is - I modeled a 1969 built car, and I can't find any usable photos of one of these cars circa 1975. A few in brand new condition, and quite a few photos of these cars still in this paint job in the 21st century. Naturally the paint is in very bad shape. I am probably better off just finding pics of other gray grain cars at the 5-6 year mark and getting the weathering patterns from them.

Andy
 
Andy, the paint, decals, and attention to details on that car are just amazing. Although I'm usually a weathering fan, I'd just do some light undercarriage grime and a little streaking. That's just too nice a job to cover up with really heavy weathering.
 
Andy, the paint, decals, and attention to details on that car are just amazing. Although I'm usually a weathering fan, I'd just do some light undercarriage grime and a little streaking. That's just too nice a job to cover up with really heavy weathering.

But it's also too nice of a car to end up as an oddball... I've got 9 more like it to build! I'm not going to trash it as to how they look today, just how it would have looked in 1975.

Andy
 
Andy, as a Scalecoat and oils guy myself, I found that a barrier of Future works great to seal and protect the volatile paints underneath from the oils and solvents I weather with.

Nice job on that kit. I'm still looking for some Kellogg decals for mine (they're out of print).
 
The car looks as if it just came of a production line, Superb!!

About the Future, if you let it dry for three to five days it makes your paint bullet proof. The reason it makes it so protected is because it is a floor material made to withstand traffic. I use Future all the time, and really love it.
 
Speaking of Future Floor wax,where can I get some?Nobody seems to carry it in West Michigan.At least not in the part I am in.
 
I see it in our Walmart all the time. I use it on our tile floors but have never used it on a model before so I'll have to give it a try.

Andy, hopefully six years of service didn't turn those covered hoppers into rust buckets. I've seen a few of them still in service and they've really deteriorated badly. :(
 
Speaking of Future Floor wax,where can I get some?Nobody seems to carry it in West Michigan.At least not in the part I am in.

Wal*mart has it here in Colorado. Our wally world has it in the cleaning aisle. IIRC it was by the brooms.
 
Speaking of Future Floor wax,where can I get some?Nobody seems to carry it in West Michigan.At least not in the part I am in.
Wal*mart. Look for "Pledge with Future Floor Shine" ( Thats the only way I've found it.) or "Future Floor Finish". Both are Acrylic floor finishes.

Ace Hardware carries it also, I'd assume Lowes and Home Depot would also.
 
You know.... I use Future mainly on window glass, and I've used it as a gloss overcoat on some attempts at stainless passenger cars but never thought of using it as an acrylic barrier. I think it will do the job perfectly. It sprays without any thinning and lays on easily. Not impossible to screw up, but it's pretty forgiving. That's exactly what I need... plus a gloss base is better for weathering - up until the final flat overcoat is due. Thanks guys!!

Andy
 



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