Help s.o.s


sd-26 chris

Member
So i bought three NEW Athearn Genesis locomotives at the Big E show for 2013. I bought two BN sd-70macs and one BN SD-60M. Over the course of the next month i took out the locomotives and ran them individually, both SD-70MACS derailed and stopped working properly. One just stopped working altogether, and the others front head lights/ditchlights quit working, only the rear light works... I really don'e know anything on how to fix this type of thing. Can anyone help me???????:mad::confused:
 
Hi Chris,

not all model trains are well built. Let me put this in context.

Once top models were made in brass and improted from Japan. The Koreans got into the act in the early 1970's, but their early attempts weren't well built and suffered from quality problems. By the 1980's the Koreans had gotten a lot better at building model trains and Korean brass from that period was as good as the Japanese stuff.

With plastic models, we are seeing a repeat of history. The Japanese (Kato) and European (Roco) drives in 1980's and 1990's models by Altas, uymm and Kato of course, were very good quality. In recent years most major importers have been sorucing their products from China. The quality of the Chinese models has been all over the place. Some seem OK but many seem to fall apart.

Athearn, BLI, MTH, Walthers P2K and even Atlas all get their stuff manufactured in China. So does Bachmann, but they are Chinese owned (Sanda Kan) so that should be no suprise.


If you want to avoid sending money on stuff with low quality control, try buying Kato or the older Atlas and Stewart with Kato or Roco drives. The older Proto stuff seems ok too. Admittedly those older models aren't always up to the current standard of detail. But at least nothing falls off. You could try the old school Athearn Blue Box. Very cheap, simple and ideal for learning how to maintain model engines.


Having said this, if history is anything to go by, we might expect Chinese models to improve in quality with time. Of course. like the Korean brass back in the day, it will increase with price too.


OK, I will let others come in a give you advice on rebuilding your Athearn units to a reliable standard.
 
Chris, can you describe your layout and how you have it set up?
Is it just a loop of track on the carpet or is it track nailed down on a plywood or roadbed surface?
Is your track clean and what kind of track is it, i.e. Atlas, Shinohara, e-z track etc.
Do they have decoders in the locomotives?
Are you running DC or DCC or DCS?
When the locos derailed, was that on a stright track, on a curve or at a turnout?
 
I'm sorry to hear of your troubles, I can only imagine how frustrating that must be.

Considering you bought them new I would contact the dealer and then manufacturer if the dealer can not or will not help you.

If dealer and or the manufacturer refuses to help you; politely tell them you will tell everyone and anyone who will listen about how they treated you.

If the dealer does not help you please let us know who the dealer is. I do not want to deal with a dealer that provides no support.

I would not necessarily expect a full refund, but I think some kind of assistance is in order to get these locomotives working again.

I wish you well.
 
Athearn's problems with the light bulbs used as headlights in their locomotives are well known. The issues of the trucks coming from the factory warped, so they won't stay on the track, are also well known. I've had several Genesis locomotives' motors burn up within a couple hours' time.
Depending on how mechanically inclined or inept you are, you can call Athearn and ask for the parts for repairs, or you can send them in to Athearn for repair.
 
I owned many of the mid-production SD70MACs and the main problem I had was mainly due to warping of the trucks. I contacted Athearn and they sent me replacement trucks for three of them including sideframes. Of the nearly 20 Athearn Genesis models I have owned, I have had 3 bulbs burn out among all of them. I replaced them with Miniatronics 1.5 bulbs. If you had a few burn out at the same time on one locomotive, it may be a problem with the light board, or DCC/light board if so equipped. Athearns quality control has improved VASTLY over the last few years, and all of my models from them in the last three years have been great. The only things wrong with them were miscelanious handrail issues, which the have also improved in the latest runs, and a ditchlight that was burnt out in a brand new out of the box SD70ACe. Twenty minutes later is was fixed and running. I understand your frustration, but get ahold of Athearn. Hopefully they will help you out.

Also I am not here to argue Athearns quality control issues with ANYONE so don't bother. This is what MY experience with them has been so far.
 
My layout is a continuous double track run with yards, branch lines etc..... The layout is on sturdy bench work that is topped with foam then cork road bed. One derailed on a switch and the other was a straightaway. Oh and i run with a mix of DC controllers and one track is DC via the DCS controller.
 
I also hit up athearn via facebook pm and a seperate email. They said it would be taken care of immediately.......... It was never taken care of :(
 
I think i bought factory rejects...... There was a table with a shit load of Athearn Genesis diesels that had an extremely low price on them. All year i have had rotten luck with buying models...... from engines to cars, 85% are broken in some way....... from ebay to hobby shops like charles row...... and train shows.
 
Chris, 1st I would contact Athearn again, and ask what the process is to get a loco sent in for repair. 2nd, I would check all track for kinks, bad joints, using a fingernail. Most of the track problems can be corrected with a file, and soldering the joints to keep them in alignment, leaving about every 4th or 5th joint unsoldered. I would also check the areas where the locos derailed for dips and humps by sighting down the track. If you used track nails to attach the track to the roadbed, make sure the nails haven't "bent" the tie down, as this will narrow the gauge of the track. Another thing to do is to make sure that your turnouts are tweaked for their best performance. Here is a link to some tips for Atlas turnouts that I have posted, but the tips also apply to all turnouts, no matter the brand. Here is the link;

http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/forum/showthread.php?24590-post-your-model-RR-tips/page3

The tips are in post #25, about midway down the page.

Lastly, to check all the track and make sure that it is in gauge and there are no kinks, get a NMRA gauge, if you don't have one, and use it to check the track and turnouts for problems.

Once the track is made bullet proof, unless there is something wrong with the cars or locomotives, there will be no derailments.
 
Chris,

I'm confused by your post. Athearn responded and said they would take care of it. But then you say it was never taken care of? Which is it? Did you send it in for repairs? How did they not take care of it? Did you give them a chance to repair it?

Call them up on the phone. Don't rely on emails and facebook pms. CALL THEM RIGHT NOW and explain what happened.

Also one more thing. Be very wary about highly discounted products, whether at train shows, hobby shops, etc. There must be a reason they are selling so cheap.
 
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hey SD26CHRIS hummm im think you & i are related like your my son lol, so like everybody said email or call thats what i did for my big boy :)
 
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I haven't had Athearn refuse a parts request when I talked to them on the phone. That's including selling me a shell for something I messed up, which was against their SOP for such a recent model.
 



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