Hallmark brass locos


srrcoalburner

srrcoalburner

Member
Anybody know anything about Hallmark brass locomotives? There are a couple on e-bay that tickle my fancy....They are DL-109's, if that makes a difference. Its one of those things I can live without but thought they were something that you dont see every day....a break from E-7s 8's and 9's. If they are going to be a problem, I'd just as soon leave them alone.
Thanks,
David
 
srrcoalburner said:
Anybody know anything about Hallmark brass locomotives? There are a couple on e-bay that tickle my fancy....They are DL-109's, if that makes a difference. Its one of those things I can live without but thought they were something that you dont see every day....a break from E-7s 8's and 9's. If they are going to be a problem, I'd just as soon leave them alone.
Thanks,
David
Click to expand...

I personally would only buy new or used brass from a reputable dealer who has tested and rates the loco.

Here is a link to a site with specifications and descriptions of various Hallmark models plus detailed thorough close up photos of each model. I hope this helps.

Also, they publish a price and data guide on brass model trains
 
Thank you very much, Sir! I dont think the link made the post. I have bought almost all my brass off of e-bay and mostly all from individuals with good results. I have had only one transaction that I was dissatisfied with and the fella bent over backwards to make it right. I can barely afford brass at all...a dealer is out of the question. Thats why I'm learning to repair my own stuff, which, is a good thing...I'm not having fun unless I can tinker with the models a little.
That being said, I don't mind tinkering and fiddleing but if it is outright junk I'll stay away from it.
Could you try to re-post that link, please?
Thanks for your input!
 
I have several brass Hallmark diesels from the 70's and 80's. One fairly consistent problem is the nylon tower gears and some had nylon axle gears. These would split. The good news is Northwest Shortline offered brass replacement sets in both 4 axle and 6 axle sets. The motors back then were open frame similar to a Pittman DC70 motor and the engines did not come with flywheels. Northwest Shortline to the rescue again with a variety of can motors and brass flywheels. Those can motors had to be set onto the chassis with a healthy gob of clear silicone sealer in most engines. Once the motors and gears were replaced the engines ran very well and they still do after 30+ years.

I don't know if Hallmark updated their motors and drives since then but if you are looking at an older model keep in mind you may be in for some work and additional costs unless you are only a collector.
 
Thank you, Mike...THAT was the answer I was looking for. NO, My locomotives have to earn their living. I have a few junkers that will become yard and shop fodder once the layout is complete, but other than that, they have to run and run well.
Thank you!
 
If you really want a DL109 BigB had 4 listed in the for sale section. I bought one and it came this week. A New Haven unit from Proto 1000 by Walthers. Excellent runner. The others are sold also but at least you know Walthers offered them in their Proto series. To be honest with you I think the Alco DL109 is an ugly child only a mother could love but it was one of the few New Haven diesels I did not have.
 
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I agree, they are "homely" looking...but are a break from the E's F's and so forth. Some of my buddies and myself have had some problems out of our Proto locos after extended running time. I have several...a couple have had wheelset wear problems and others dont seem to care how much they are run. One of my better E units is a BLI Blueline that I painted and decaled in the Central of Ga. blue and grey. Its a champ and most folks want to know where I bought it. I tell 'em you gotta build it! I'm a decent hand with a paint brush but I dont rellish the idea of painting the two-stripe "Tennessean" scheme. I seem to be stuck painting on brass steam lately. I'm currently painting 6 Southern locomotives:3 Ps-4 pacifics, 2 Ms Mikados and one Ts-1 mountain...all in Southern green. The pacifics are the hard ones due to the piping of the Elesco FW heaters. I might be finished by Valentines Day!
Thanks, brother!
 
srrcoalburner said:
Thank you very much, Sir! I dont think the link made the post. I have bought almost all my brass off of e-bay and mostly all from individuals with good results. I have had only one transaction that I was dissatisfied with and the fella bent over backwards to make it right. I can barely afford brass at all...a dealer is out of the question. Thats why I'm learning to repair my own stuff, which, is a good thing...I'm not having fun unless I can tinker with the models a little.
That being said, I don't mind tinkering and fiddleing but if it is outright junk I'll stay away from it.
Could you try to re-post that link, please?
Thanks for your input!
Click to expand...


Oops!

http://www.brasstrains.com/Classic/Trains/?searchtext=hallmark

It is fun to tinker with locos. I sometimes have to do some tweaking on diesels.

Check out this, this may be helpful with your learning to repair.

http://schutzer.net/Brass_Clinics/RebuildingBrass2006std.pdf

Though my old samhongsa runs well at all speeds smoothly, I'm going to attempt to do some work on, after reading more, it to reduce its noisy vibrations. Here is a shot of it. It is the first brass model I bought. I don't run it often because I don't have a yard for it to do switching.

Cheers
 
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I had a Halmark DL109 (used) some time ago. I spent quite a bit of time on trying to get it to run to a somewhat operable degree, but had problems with splitting gears, a very noisy drive train and very jerky operation. I gave up on it and sold it on ebay, noting the sever problems with it.
 
A good rule for Hallmark stuff is: if it says Dong Jin on the box, run away! Many of the Dong Jin models were total stinkers. I think the Hallmark DLs were done by Kumata, a much better builder. NWSL may have gears and such to quiet a noisy drive train. if you just want to run one, it might be wise to look for the Proto 1000 model :)
 
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