gear noise, Ac4400 athearn bluebox


dalehenigman

New Member
Hi, all. Made some progress on my ac44 starting , works 'bout as good as an athearn can. gearboxes are pretty free. Now I have excessive gear noise. All the gears look good, mesh nicely, using brass worm. I cant figure out the noise. The buzz seems about in sync with motor revs, pulsates slightly about with wheel rev. I have ac44's that don't make noise. any ideas?..... Thanks...Dale.
 
I know in real life the AC6000 had that issue,thats why most RR went with the AC4400. I would it back to athearn,its a shame there inside of there locos dont run as good as the outside look.
 
I had a slew of GP15's that made a sympathetic rumble at speed. I ended up changing the worms, worm bearings, shims, and wheel bearings on them. I still have two out of the eight I started with, and they still make some noise, even after all the parts swapping.
Does it still make the noise with the shell in place?
 
I know in real life the AC6000 had that issue,thats why most RR went with the AC4400. I would it back to athearn,its a shame there inside of there locos dont run as good as the outside look.

Sending a blue box engine back to Athearn isn't going to accomplish much.

The majority of all the drive noise is due to sloppy tolerances. They can be made to run really nice, but it takes a lot of fiddling. I've been able to make an old grinder actually run better than an Atlas and even draw less current !

It's a divide and conquer kind of thing. Add shims to each gear in the truck to take up any slop. You want them snug, but not tight. I don't remember where I sourced them, but replacing the brass worm with a plastic one really helps.

All the drive shaft components are sloppy as well. I put a thin film of silicone on every joint and put it all together with the trucks facing straight and let it set over night. The silicone tightens up all the joints, but is still flexible enough to allow everything to turn .... and they still just pull apart if need be.

The motor itself isn't the best quality either. Cutting a few turns off the brush springs will soft the brush pressure on the armature. Speaking of the armature, I remove it and clean the commutator really well. I then flow a thin bead of epoxy between each commutator segment. When dry, I chuck it in my drill and sand / polish it smooth (old slot car racing trick). Now the brushes won't "clack" as they move from one segment to the next.

There a number of other things you can do, but that's a good start. You really can make a silk purse out of a cow's ear if you want to put the time into it. ;)

Mark.
 
the shell amplifies the noise. i will try better bearings and less play in my components. i've dressed several commutators by spinning motor at full speed,while touching commutator w/ 400 grit sand paper, very lightly. Motor speed actually increases during this process. I have a GP-50 that I worked that starts easy, runs smooth, starts at bout 3.5 volts. The puzzle is not only the noise in this eng, but also why its brothers run smoothly and more quietly. Im hunting for the differences in these engs. also cold, like 40-50 deg makes them run really slow and smooth, - lube viscosity.
 
The old gold motors in the Athearn blue box engines weren't the highest quality motors. The armature shaft in them is very seldom perfectly true which also contributes to a vibration noise. Out of ten motors, I only found two that had a perfectly true armature shaft. Those are the ones I will rebuild. The others will never run perfectly quiet.

Mark.
 
I've heard that that adding a thin lead plate and gluing it to the under side of the shell, will prevent the shell from vibrating and making noise. Might try that.
 
Since you have several, and only one bad apple, maybe you can swap parts around to make it work well. Swap a rear truck, then test both engines. Then swap the front truck, then one worm and drive shaft, until the noise stops.
 
I have 2 Athearn loco and a switcher and that is all I will have there shells look super but for that kind of money I will buy BLI , or for cheaper price bowser. Ive had my share of programming issues as well as other things and have sent more back then ive kept. No company is perfect,but it seems some are better then others.

Jay
 
You can't go wrong with a Kato motor (or the older Atlas / Kato motors). Seen lots of Athearn swaps using them.

Mark.
 



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