Foam Question


Foam, water, and scraps

:)Ditto here on the 2" foam insulation on top of plywood. Workd great and you can cut into it with a foan knife or tool. When making your streams and rivers,etc. make sure and seal the sides of your river banks with paint or plaster, and then paint the bottom and side with a ground color,etc. then put in your choice of water pour. I used woodland scenics realistic water and it worked great, just a little expensive, and it shrinks a bit when it dries, so a few pours may be rquired depending on your depth.

When making hills, moutains, etc, just stack up the scrap foam and cover with plaster cloth. Goes on quick, then scenic. Everything glues to the foam pretty well. The foam helps to deaden the sound like cork roadbed does. Good luck, have fun.
 
JoeG said:
Is it common practice to use foam on top of your plywood?
And what thickness and type shoud be used?
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Are you building a homelayout or one to take to shows? does not matter as a N scaler I use rpimed sound board holdstrack nails great and will accept most paints for groundform,its lightweight and cheaper then plywood:D

Larry
 
I used 15/32 birch sandwiched with 2'' foam board, coupled with foam risers and incline sets makes for a sturdy and quiet foundation.:p
 
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All Foam N scale

Here is a shot of my N Scale 34" by 8ft "shelf Railroad. Thickest portion of the foam 'sandwich' is 4.75". Very easy to carve, sculpt, repair, etc. I will be placing the layout into a fold down cabinet over a long bookcase sometime this spring. Layout now has the track layed and all trains run well over the entire layout. More pictures later.
 
Scootermon's foamboard RR

Thought I'd better post some specific pictures of my layout. N Scale, 34" by 8ft shelf layout.
 
And a second batch of photos

Faom sandwich at max thickness is 4.5" Foam roadbed w/sectional track for large main line curves and flex track all other places.
 
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New guy question...

Hi all, I am new to the board and new to the hobby.

So from what I have read in this thread everyone seems to be using foam for the base of their layouts. I am wondering; do you use the track nails to hold the track in place or just glue the track in place. If using glue, is elmers the best to use or would you be better off using some silicone adhesive. Also, how do you hold the roadbed to the foam?

This foam thing sounds like the way to go, but do you guys paint the entire top of the foad and if so what type of paint is being used?

Hope you guys don't mind some newbie questions.

Thanks,
Tony:D:D:D
 
Screwjack said:
Please excuse me for being ignorant here, but do you mean you cover the foam entirely with plaster cloth? Then you paint or stain the cloth? Sounds interesting...thanks!
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basically yes. Altho I use papier mache (Sculptamold brand) instead of plaster or plaster cloth. Either way, they add the surface texture you need for realistic looks. you can carve and sculpt the foam directly as well, but the texture may be a bit too large/oversize.

papier mache can be painted with virtually any type of paint, in my case, I added latex paint ("dirt" colored) to the mixture while making each batch, that way the color goes all the way thru and doesn't show the "white" when you damage it or otherwise affect the surface layer. The latex paint also toughens the papier mache considerably, making it holdup better over the years.

Plaster can be pre-colored as well, altho I've never done it.
 
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For holding roadbed to the base and track to the roadbed, many people use inexpensive latex caulk. You spread it very thinly with a putty knife and then use pushpins or weights to hold the track in place while the caulk cures.

You need to be sure you use a foam-safe caulk. Some types of caulk will dissolve or melt the foam.

- Jeff
 
Working foamboard

Hello. The foamboard photos above (page three) are my second layout of this type. First one was a 'concept' layout fully working but no scenery. That one was 'painted' with a thin slurry of plaster and dark colored water. Made the foam surface rather hard. Can still carve thru it if necessary. Just repaint with the same type slurry. I used regular Elmers white clue for ALL glue work. Held the foam roadbed in place with pins while drying. Same with the track. Used sedctional track for tightest end curves, flex track for the larger curve and all other places. Just give flex track more pins and longer to dry. Things have worked out well as I am now into the wiring phase. Got tired of jurry rigging the wiring just to test the track.

I understand that Liquid Nails for hobby use is a good foamboard bonding material. Have never used that item.
 
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There is a tube adhesive, like a liquid nails designed specifically for gluing foam together, and to other materials like wood. Read the directions though, as you are supposed to spread the glue, put the materials together, then separate them and let them sit exposed to the air for a bit. Then you carefully put the pieces back together, and they will bond hard VERY fast.

For Gluing roadbed and track down, I tried white glue, it worked okay, but I am working on a yard addition, and decided to try the latex caulk method, and THAT works amazing.
 
Scootermon said:
Thought I'd better post some specific pictures of my layout. N Scale, 34" by 8ft shelf layout.
Click to expand...

Hey Scootermon, I really like the way that looks, real neat. Unfortunately all I can get is the crappy white stuff. Do you have any updates you can post? Sure would like to see them.

Paul
 
dispatcher812 said:
If you use foam, do you still use cork roadbed?
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A primary purpose of the cork is to create a roadbed profile that raises the track slightly above the surrounding terrain, just as real railroads do. So if you would use cork roadbed on a wood baseboard, you would also use it on a foam baseboard.

There are places, such as yards, where some real railroads do not use a raised roadbed. If you are modeling such an area, then you might lay your track directly on your baseboard, whether your baseboard is wood or foam.

In summary, when you substitute foam for wood as your baseboard, it need not effect your decision of when and where to use cork roadbed.

- Jeff
 
Cork or foam roadbed

Or, you could use the foam roadbed. Either will glue to the foamboard without problems. Just use pins to keep it in place until the glue dries. I use Elmers white glue as it makes it much easier to pull up to reposition or repair even if the track has also been placed down.
 
No, the white caulk dries basically clear as well. Just get the cheapest stuff they have and it will work fine.
 
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