Derailment problems with Bachmann Spectrum

[SilverBlade]

I've been tweaking for about a week and want to get some guidance.

My Bachmann Spectrum 2-8-0 has been a real problem child when it comes to derailing. The problem appears to be with the front truck on the tender. That's almost always what derails and always in the switches (any switch). I'm useing Atlas code 80 remote switches. I found the front truck was pretty tight so I loosened it and that got it running smoothly in forward but it still derails in reverse constantly. I'm a little suspicious of the coupler between the tender and the engine. Is this a bad design or are my problems unusual? (obviously the truck is electrified)

What kind of tests or tricks can I try to trouble shoot my track? I've read that the frogs are often the culprit. How can I tell if my problem is being caused by a frog?

To recap my problem is only in reverse, only in the switches (all switches), and usually the front truck on the tender.

Help me out here guys. What do I do?

 

[Graff]

Could be weight related. If the front of the tender is a bit on the light side (as the HO version), then you get derailments in reverse.
Try to add some weight if possible.....

 

[TrinityJayOne]

Try some different points. My brother has some steam engines with less axles than yours that have trouble over Atlas switches, but on Peco ones they have no issues. From a previous thread on turnouts-

I'll throw my $0.02 in here for N gauge.

The basic Atlas snap switches are poo, avoid them. They have the switching lever on the opposite side of the diverging rail with the mechanism inside a black plastic casing running parallel to the track. Throwing the switch gives only a very mild click, and the mechanism is obviously plastic because it is easily broken. My brother accidentally pulled a derailed carriage over one and the underside got caught on the blades, pulling them to the center while the switch was still closed. Ever since then trains would regularly hop the blade and derail when set to diverge. Additionally the rails are very poorly "locked" into position, so a trailing point movement without the switches set correctly would cause similar issues if your train is heavy enough to force the blades. They also pass current to both the through & diverging routes at the same time, something which DC users might want to avoid.

Peco Streamline insulfrog switches are great! The switching mechanism in locked directly to the blades so there's no play like you get in the Atlas snap switches. The mechanism is also spring loaded and gives a very satisfying click when it locks into place. I can go over them at a snail's pace without any stalls and I can't think of a single turnout-related derailment occurring since I made the switch (sorry) from Atlas.

Both of the above were code 80.

Looks like a fantastic engine you have there just btw.

 

[railfan]

Try some different points. My brother has some steam engines with less axles than yours that have trouble over Atlas switches, but on Peco ones they have no issues. From a previous thread on turnouts-


Looks like a fantastic engine you have there just btw.

Hi Pete, do you know if the atlas code 55 switches are better than the code 80 snap switches? I'm glad I read this before buying track. I read someone said his atlas code 55 #7 switches worked great but the #10's had problems.

Mike

 

[WCWBrassHat]

The Atlas Code 55 turnouts work great! I have the #5, #7, #10, #2.5Y, and #3.5Y. Other than having 2 of the #7's break over the years, I have not had any problems.

Glenn

 

[SilverBlade]

I think Graff is on to something. I tapeed some ballast onto the front of the tender and that definately had a significant improvement (and unfortunately created other problems elsewhere - still working on them).

The info from TrinityJayOne is not particularly good news for me as I have about $140 already invested in atlas switches. I looked into Peco and was dissapointed to find they don't offer switches with the motors already installed. More over the motors weren't the easiest things to find. Walther's had none. I eventually found them at NScaleSupply.com. So figure $19 for a standard 12" radius switch plus $10 for the PL-10 motor, plus I have to buy a $4 PL-12 adapter base and a $5 PL-13 switch to wire to the motor?! (you're kidding, right?) Plus the hassle of assembly. That's $38 per switch compared to $26 from Atlas. Ouch. Still my switches do appear to be the biggest part of my headaches, so I gotta at least try them out.

And yes TJO, my engine looks stunning. Now if I could just get it to run half as well...

 

[Graff]

Regarding switch motors, try the servo controls from Tam Valley:
http://www.tamvalleydepot.com/products.html
Much better and cheaper in the end.
I have looked at the costs and the Quad, wich controlls four servos and have a DCC decoder built in, costs $47.95 if bought with four fascia controllers!
That's $12 per switch. Servos including mounts are $7.50 each, that sums up to $19.50 per switch + the cost of the turnout ($19) wich totals to $38.50!
Even money with Peco! And then you have slow motion switches controlled with either your DCC or fascia mounted buttons!!

 

[TrinityJayOne]

The info from TrinityJayOne is not particularly good news for me as I have about $140 already invested in atlas switches. I looked into Peco and was dissapointed to find they don't offer switches with the motors already installed. More over the motors weren't the easiest things to find. Walther's had none. I eventually found them at NScaleSupply.com. So figure $19 for a standard 12" radius switch plus $10 for the PL-10 motor, plus I have to buy a $4 PL-12 adapter base and a $5 PL-13 switch to wire to the motor?! (you're kidding, right?) Plus the hassle of assembly. That's $38 per switch compared to $26 from Atlas. Ouch. Still my switches do appear to be the biggest part of my headaches, so I gotta at least try them out.

I know where you're coming from as I already spent close to $100 on Atlas switches myself, but I think it very much comes down to "you get what you pay for". Of course YMMV so if you're able to definitely try before you buy. Personally I'm still get to have a single derailment with the Peco ones, including reversing 15+ cars into a siding.

EDIT: A video I made for a different thread. I wouldn't dare do that 3rd pass on my Atlas switches!

[YOUTUBE]ov0oipdV-_I[/YOUTUBE]

 

[hamltnblue]

Is there a way to adjust the drawbar length? If it's too short and you go around tight radius turns the loco could pull the tender off the track.

 

[SilverBlade]

Is there any reason I can't use the buttons from my Atlas switches to control the peco motors? And is there a video or other resource to describe how the motors mounted. I'm at work and can't access social sites like YouTube but if it's out there, I'd like to take a look later.

New question: Any opinions on using switches on an ascending grade (say 3%)? Has anyone ever tried that or am I just asking for trouble?

 

[railnut49]

Well, I have four of the Bachman spectrum 2-8-0's and all work great, like a swiss watch, and my turnouts on this layout are Atlas code 80 like all my track. I haven't checked, but the little consolidation may have wheel flanges not designed to run on the code 55 track, or switches. I've done nothing to mine, and love em all.

 

[TrinityJayOne]

Do yours work in reverse? SilverBlade said they were using code 80 as well so it shouldn't be flange-related.

As for switches on a grade, I think that could be asking for trouble but it would really come down to how you plan on using them. If you had the switch diverging on the ascending grade then you'd probably be ok. If it was the opposite then I think you'd want some N scale cranes nearby, especially if the switch was anywhere but at the top of the grade. The heavy locos would probably go through alright, but then the very first car is going to have the weight of the entire train pushing it forward and would very likely derail at the frog.