DCC loco run on DC?
- Thread starter zoegraf
- Start date
TrinityJayOne
N gauge fan
Many sound decoders are "dual mode" I think they call it, which means that they'll work on DC but not to their full potential. For example on a steam loco you'll get the chuffs and brakes but not control over things like horns.
BRS Hobbies
Member
It would be best to either look the model up on the manufacturer's website or ask the retailer since some DCC locomotives are DCC only and others are dual mode which can run on both a DC and a DCC track.
Best regards,
Brian
Best regards,
Brian
ICG/SOU
HO & O (3-rail) trainman
I've done some installations for folks who run dual mode (club layout is DC analog).
For a Tsunami, the decoder generally requires 6 volts before the prime mover/air pump start up. From there, you'll get lights and movement when you give more throttle. If your lighting features are set in programming, you won't have things like MARS or ditch lights, beacons and such. You won't have your additional sound features (bell, horn, dynamic brakes, etc.)
One word of caution. The Tsunami has limits on voltages. Don't go over 16 volts DC (you really don't need much over 13 to 14 max). Your DC needs to be clean DC, not pulsed or anything else. The local guys have a club layout with old power packs running on pulse power, which spells eventual death for the decoder.
Symptoms of over voltage and pulse power (aside from hooking up a multimeter to the layout) are erratic running, loss of control, lights flashing 10 times or so. The loco may work for a little, and then just go nuts or stop working.
For a Tsunami, the decoder generally requires 6 volts before the prime mover/air pump start up. From there, you'll get lights and movement when you give more throttle. If your lighting features are set in programming, you won't have things like MARS or ditch lights, beacons and such. You won't have your additional sound features (bell, horn, dynamic brakes, etc.)
One word of caution. The Tsunami has limits on voltages. Don't go over 16 volts DC (you really don't need much over 13 to 14 max). Your DC needs to be clean DC, not pulsed or anything else. The local guys have a club layout with old power packs running on pulse power, which spells eventual death for the decoder.
Symptoms of over voltage and pulse power (aside from hooking up a multimeter to the layout) are erratic running, loss of control, lights flashing 10 times or so. The loco may work for a little, and then just go nuts or stop working.
Very interesting and helpful, thanks.
The brass loco I have that is DCC runs fine on DC pulsed and non-pulsed, which brings me to these questions: Is it most likely that I have fried the decoder at some point in the past without knowing? Also I noticed that it doesn't require much juice to operate it. Also the lights don't come on until it's about at 30 (scale)MPH. Does this have something to do with it being a model with DCC/DC by Digitrax ?
Trussrod
Well-Known Member
Say Zoe,
I need to preface this with the fact I'm no expert in DCC decoders and what works or doesn't but I'll mention what I've seen, heard.
I've seen several loco's with decoders of one type or another run on, [DC] and while there was no control over Ringing the Bell or Blowing the Whistle both of those functions worked for a bit at the appropriate time when the engine started out and I believe when it slowed down considerably too. Also the chuff sound was always there increasing as the loco increased speed or slowed or during continuous running.
When over at a new friends house helping get his track down he ran two different loco's with DCC decoders in them and I believe different brands, as the Spectrum loco produced very nice quality sound and the other loco, while the sound was ok it wasn't nearly the quality of the Tsunami in the Spectrum. He was using an MRC pack with dual meters on it at the top. Model #?
The main point here is that you should get, it would seem, the chuff all the time and the bell and whistle sounds at the appropriate times, when starting out or slowing down.
Most often, from what I seen of electronics, they usually function fully or not at all. You might check to ensure don't have a broken speaker wire or other connection problems?
I need to preface this with the fact I'm no expert in DCC decoders and what works or doesn't but I'll mention what I've seen, heard.
I've seen several loco's with decoders of one type or another run on, [DC] and while there was no control over Ringing the Bell or Blowing the Whistle both of those functions worked for a bit at the appropriate time when the engine started out and I believe when it slowed down considerably too. Also the chuff sound was always there increasing as the loco increased speed or slowed or during continuous running.
When over at a new friends house helping get his track down he ran two different loco's with DCC decoders in them and I believe different brands, as the Spectrum loco produced very nice quality sound and the other loco, while the sound was ok it wasn't nearly the quality of the Tsunami in the Spectrum. He was using an MRC pack with dual meters on it at the top. Model #?
The main point here is that you should get, it would seem, the chuff all the time and the bell and whistle sounds at the appropriate times, when starting out or slowing down.
Most often, from what I seen of electronics, they usually function fully or not at all. You might check to ensure don't have a broken speaker wire or other connection problems?
