Cut stone for portal (what to use?)


T

TomR

Member
Help!! Again. :)

I have this:

tunnel-3.jpg



and I have two choices...this one that I don't like but will be easier...

tunnel-4.jpg


...or this one I think can look better but takes a little more work...

Tunnel-2.jpg


So my real problem, no matter which I use, is what to use for stone. I'd like to use a Pennsy style looking thing with something that looks like cut and fit rock with a keystone. So what material can I cut up to look like stone??

I have lots of tools to cut stuff. I'd like to use my metal sheer (fast) but I have electric hacksaws and stuff. :)

Or can I buy cut stone to glue on my foamboard???

Thanks!

Tom
 
You could make a mold out of blue or pink foam, then use hydrocal (or similar material) and pour it into the mold. You'd undoubtedly need to clean up the casting some, but hydrocal is pretty easy to carve before it cures.
 
ianacole said:
You could make a mold out of blue or pink foam, then use hydrocal (or similar material) and pour it into the mold. You'd undoubtedly need to clean up the casting some, but hydrocal is pretty easy to carve before it cures.
Click to expand...


That might be beyond my ability. :)

I just wanted to stack up some fake stone blocks.
 
You could use the piece you have for a template and trace it on some cardboard, cut some 1/4" to 3/8" strips of card board and tape or glue them down and use plaster of paris as it sets up quickly and is esy to carve using a needle vise with a sewing needle in it...give it a try as practice makes perfect and you will be able to make as many and what ever size you need for next to nothing but alittle time. Here is an example of one I made 20 yrs ago
 
Thanks for the suggestions and links. So many choices! The Taiwan stuff on eBay and the Dr. Ben's blocks look great.

GaryMc,

How did you do that? Did you cut thin sheets of single layer cardboard paper into block sizes, glue them to a back support, and then use plaster of paris to fake the mortar? Or was it regular thick cardboard?

I can slice cardboard or things up to a 1/2 inch thick in my big metal sheer very fast and virtually any size, or I have a smaller paper cutter.

Tom
 
I meant for you to make a mold from the cardboard to pour the plaster in then carve it, very easy process and you will pleased with the results.
 
I had kinda same problem as our club. My tunnel portals needed to be 1/2 wider than any sold. So club made a form from wood and covered with release tape. Then they poured hydocal and carved the stones. They told me I could borrow the mold but since it was weeks till they are adding theirs, I made a rubber mold off of the ones they made. Saved me all the carving. I used Woodland Scenics Latex Rubber. I brushed on 2 coats and then added a layer of gauze and another layer of rubber. This saved me ALL the carving of the stone work.
Pic 1 is rubber covered original.
Pic 2 is the original on top, a stock one on bottom (notice top one is 1/2 wider on the opening)
Pic 3 is stained copy in place.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have done several portals like Trucula has done and with very good results, showing all the detail of the original. Always make sure you use the gauze and plenty of it. This firms up the flimsy latex so it will not collapse during the pour ;).
 
RexHea said:
I have done several portals like Trucula has done and with very good results, showing all the detail of the original. Always make sure you use the gauze and plenty of it. This firms up the flimsy latex so it will not collapse during the pour ;).
Click to expand...

Yes I learned that on first pour. I was able to correct it. One good tip is to build up more of a flanged edge like in my 1st pic(but more than I did)..Thats why rock molds have a large flanged edge.
This is also a GREAT way to make rock molds off real rocks so you dont end up with cookie cutter repeats on your cliffs.
 
Yeah, I learned on my first pour also:eek::D. Another tip for a large handmade mold is to fill a box with sand and and insert the mold down into it (make sure the mold hasn't distorted). This is a big help for support;).
 
Yeah the sand crossed my mind too but I couldnt locate any close. I thought of the pea gravel I had handy but figured that wouldnt keep shape. I ended up cutting a form for the mold to set into in a scrap piece of 3/4 inch foam board.
 
GaryMc said:
You could use the piece you have for a template and trace it on some cardboard, cut some 1/4" to 3/8" strips of card board and tape or glue them down and use plaster of paris as it sets up quickly and is esy to carve using a needle vise with a sewing needle in it...give it a try as practice makes perfect and you will be able to make as many and what ever size you need for next to nothing but alittle time. Here is an example of one I made 20 yrs ago
Click to expand...

Thank you Gary for that quick tutorial and the picture
I'm looking for an hydrocal retaining wall, so your tutorial will be very helpful.

Jacques
 
I took several photos of the tunnel mouth at Tunnel Hill a couple of years ago. Its been modified since it was built, to cater for double stacked containers.The tunnel is located close to Horseshoe Curve, just outside Altoona.
Ron
 
the old way to do it was to make a mold, pour hydrocal, then draw lines with a pencil, and finally score with an x-acto knife. Then they'd chip away at some of the stones with a knife. I've got an old book where Linn Wescott made a portal himself, and by the time he was done, it looked like something today you'd get commercially.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.



Back
Top