constant lighting kit

[ThoroughBreed]

Ok, heres what I got in the 2 Athearn bb c44-9w's from a trade. It has what I consider to be a constant lighting kit for dc. It controls both forward and reverse lights and the ditch lights and has them flashing when going forwards. The outputs are 1.5v, I think, as the bulbs are 1.5v bulbs (tested the bulbs with a AA battery). The numbers on the DIP are GD4093B, and it comes up as a Quad 2 input Nand Schmitt trigger . It also has 8 diodes, 2 caps, a resistor, and 2 amps/voltage regs?
Now, what I'm thinking of doing is connecting this up to a dcc decoder, that is a single function decoder, that has a 12v output, but only to control the forward lights and ditch lights.
My question is this: has anyone seen this before? what kind of amperage does it pull?

 

[UP2CSX]

I've never seen one like it before but your photo is so blurry it's hard to tell what it is. I'm not clear on why you would want to use this for DCC decoder. Won't the decoder with the right CV values control the headlights and ditch lights? I guess I just don't get what you're trying to do.

 

[ThoroughBreed]

the decoder I want to attach it to is a single function decoder, only 1 light output, and thought it would be cool to hook it up and have forward headlights and ditch lights. That is the whole idea behind this topic. Other than that, I can put a 4 function decoder in to do it, but this is already hooked up to the headlights and ditch lights, and already is dropped down to the 1.5v's for the bulbs. If I hook up the decoder to the bulbs, I will have to install some resistors to drop the voltage to 1.5v.

 

[UP2CSX]

Oh, sorry, missed the part of it being single function. From the spec sheet in your link, it looks like this board will function from 7 to 15 volts DC. As long as your light output from the decoder puts out the required voltage, it seems like it should work. It looks like the power draw is down in the 100 milliamp range so it shouldn't even be noticeable, even with just a 1 amp decoder. Now, realize you're taking advice form a guy who's one step above an electrical idiot. I'd try this with the cheapest decoder you can get in case it fails the smoke test.