Configuring DH165K1A FX3 Rotary Beacon


I

igmuska

New Member
DH165k1A.jpg


As I am days new to this DCC business, taking the plunge with a Digitrax Super Chief, I have a question on how to install and configure a rotary beacon for this decoder for my Kato SD40-2 BN.

After reading through the books and the Digitrax site, I am still slightly confused on how the function remapping works, but I'll give it a try, explaining to you all what I think I am supposed to do.

1st: I solder my light's wires to the Blue/+common and the F3, Brown pads.
2nd: I set CV133 to 26 as I understand from the Digitrax Decoder book for FX3 lighting effects.

Can someone look this over and offer suggestions?
 
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Invest in a interface between your computer and your Super Chief (Digitrax MS100 or a SPROG2 if you don't want to connect your computer to your programming track). Then download Decoder Pro from the JMRI site. It's MUCH, MUCH easier to program your decoders to the fullest.
 
I also have Digitrax PR3 and have already downloaded Decoder Pro. At present, I also only have one locomotive that I'd like to add a rotary beacon.
The decoder manual gives tables for the CVs as well as describes the process for function remapping. In my case, this is the first time I'll have tried this but the more I read the manual and the web materials, I think I am on the right track but I just need advice from someone that has already installed a rotary beacon on this decoder.
 
I haven't done one, but it seems you're on the right track - However the first thing I noticed is the diagram says "front to the right" - Are you sure?.....

igmuska said:
1st: I solder my light's wires to the Blue/+common and the F3, Brown pads.
Click to expand...

Correct - Except, what type of light are you driving? If it's incandescent I think the above is correct - OTOH, "F3+" seems to incorporate a 680Ohm resistor, which seems about right if you're driving an LED.

2nd: I set CV133 to 26 as I understand from the Digitrax Decoder book for FX3 lighting effects.
Click to expand...

Get the sucker turning on & off first - Then mess with the settings to try different effects - Again, I don't know this decoder but suspect it has "keep alive" values and so on that you can fine tune - Have fun! You can't do any (real!) harm!

+1 on JMRI Decoderpro BTW.

Cheers,
Ian
 
I am great believer in Occam's Razor where the simplest way is the right way. My Kato SD40-2 sounds great and runs fine. I have a very basic understanding of CVs and function mapping but feel that I can do this with a little advice from this board.

Now, according to Digitrax, this decoder doesn't need limiting resistors for incandescent lamps. Second, examples on function mapping are relatively sparse, but I think I spiked the process.

I want to change F3 so it controls the rotary beacon. Below are the tables with the required information.

In the first table, CV113 controls F3 and the FX3 functions. The second table shows that CV X6 is the second digit with the first digit determined through values in the last table. Using these tables, and after installing the rotary beacon, I change CV113 to 26, which means pressing F3 would now control the non-directional rotary beacon.

Was Occam right or is there something I am missing?

TableIVaFXFX3GerneratorCVs.jpg


TableIVbSecondDigitFX3.jpg


TableIVcFX3effects.jpg
 
igmuska said:
..Now, according to Digitrax, this decoder doesn't need limiting resistors for incandescent lamps.
Click to expand...

Indeed - wire it straight off the "F3" pad.

Was Occam right or is there something I am missing?
Click to expand...

Looks good to me.

Obviously, if you set CV113 to B6 your beacon will only be on if the thing is moving (either way) - Isn't that more prototypical? [*Please* don't shoot me if not ;)]

The good news is it's easy to change - Have fun!

Cheers,
Ian
 
That is a great idea, fast_ian, and makes more sense. I never seen a SD40-2, equipped with a rotary beacon, start up; I have seen the beacons operating on the rails long ago. The yellow safety light can be seen for miles.
Setting CV113 to B6 would mean that the moment the locomotive starts moving the beacon comes on automatically and goes off the moment it stops. By the way, on this decoder, F3 controls the coupler clank sound which I can do without. Would this also mean that after setting the new CVs, that I could also turn it on if the locomotive is stationary. I've seen the prototypes at our local grain elevator and the beacon never goes off during moves?
 
igmuska said:
...Setting CV113 to B6 would mean that the moment the locomotive starts moving the beacon comes on automatically and goes off the moment it stops.
Click to expand...

That's certainly my understanding. :)

By the way, on this decoder, F3 controls the coupler clank sound..
Click to expand...

Not any more!

Would this also mean that after setting the new CVs, that I could also turn it on if the locomotive is stationary.
Click to expand...

I would guess not. I guess that the function needs to be on AND the loco moving before the light comes on. If it's off, then no light regardless.

[But, you've got plenty more outputs on that decoder that could be used for another light..... ;)]

You'll have to try it and report back :)

Cheers,
Ian
 
I just suffered a case of extreme speed reading, not noticing that the CVs listed in the FX3 tables are in hex, the correct value for CV113 is 38, and not 26, if I wanted to control the rotary beacon with F3.
This is all starting to make sense now. But enough dreaming about the rotary beacon, I have to find out how to reduce the impact of installing the rotary beacon, i.e., if I have to drill through the Kato light pipe or if I can squeeze the lamp wires through without any body modifications.
 
igmuska said:
I just suffered a case of extreme speed reading, not noticing that the CVs listed in the FX3 tables are in hex, the correct value for CV113 is 38, and not 26, if I wanted to control the rotary beacon with F3
Click to expand...

Don't you program the thing in hex? No translations needed if you do.

Cheers,
Ian
PS - Good luck with the install!
 
And the short and skinny of progress, evidently the board needs limiting resistors although they say they don't...I burnt out several bulbs so far. In a couple of days, my resistors should arrive parcel post; I ordered them thinking just in case.
The other issue is that although I changed the CV113 to 38, the coupler clanks is still there. How do I free F3 itself so it can just turn on and off the rotary beacon.
 
igmuska said:
And the short and skinny of progress, evidently the board needs limiting resistors although they say they don't...I burnt out several bulbs so far.
Click to expand...

Oh dear! I'm sorry I said anything!.....

Have you tried connecting it to the "F3+" pad? - I *guess* from your OP that already has a 680Ohm resistor - Typically for LEDs. What voltage are your bulbs?

The other issue is that although I changed the CV113 to 38, the coupler clanks is still there. How do I free F3 itself so it can just turn on and off the rotary beacon.
Click to expand...

Are you sure it wants these values in decimal? I think I'd try setting it to B6hex.

Good luck, and sorry about your bulbs!

Cheers,
Ian
 
I have a Miniatronics 1.2mm, 1.5 volt bulb, incandescent, for the rotary beacon I want for this locomotive.
When I soldered to the F3(brown wire) on the right hand side of the DH165K1A decoder, it burns the bulbs out.
On the left hand side is the F3+ pad as shown in the photo, how do I access that through the CVs?
 
igmuska said:
.... 1.5 volt bulb....
Click to expand...

:eek:

I could be leading you up the garden path here, and was kinda hoping someone with that decoder might have jumped in by now. YMMV, the usual disclaimers apply etc......

In general, the "direct" function output (the F3 pad you're soldering to) is ~12v - Most incandescents like that. 1.5V is "typically" for LED's, and it seems Miniatronics are expecting your bulbs to be used instead of LED's.....

On the left hand side is the F3+ pad as shown in the photo, how do I access that through the CVs?
Click to expand...

I *think* its an "either/or" - Put your brown lead on the F3+ pad rather than than the F3 pad and you've got 1.5V - The CV's remain the same - Unless someone knows better (?)

Cheers,
Ian
 
Finally got the beacon to work, using a 330 ohm 1/4 watt resistor (Radioshack), now I just got to button up my locomotive and start applying the decals and #8002 is on the rails...
 
igmuska said:
Finally got the beacon to work, using a 330 ohm 1/4 watt resistor (Radioshack), now I just got to button up my locomotive and start applying the decals and #8002 is on the rails...
Click to expand...

Congratulations!

What CV's & values give you the correct effect? Hex or decimal? ;)

Did you ever try coming from the "F3+" pad?

Anyway, glad to hear you're got 'er done! :)

Cheers,
Ian
 
CV113 = 38 in decimal works great, the bulb doesn't flash too rapidly, it gradually fades and brightens perfectly. And I kept it on the F3 pad (brown) but still have to silence the default coupler clank associated with F3.
 
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