Coming back to model railroading! Lots of q's


R

rdemattio91

Member
Hello guys, first post! Well, to start off the names Ryan, and I'm ready to get back into model RR! Back when I was young I had a decent O scale lionel set. Well when I got older (15) I was more interested in women then trains, but now I'm starting to get back into it. I want to go HO scale cause it just seems better all around. I want to start off with the right track, the right trains, etc. I don't want to have to change a bunch of track after my layout grows, cars, or locomotives. So, a few questions:

1. What is a good track to use? I was thinking atlas, but whats the difference between true track, code 83, and code 100?

2. What is a good company for HO trains and cars? Bachman, Atlas, etc! I don't want anything cheap, but I can do without 100%top of the line trains.

3. I plan on starting out with DCC, what do I need to look for on locomotives etc? I can take a engine cover off and plug a decoder in if its that simple.

4. I plan on purchasing this track layout to get me started, (if atlas track is good ofcourse) http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/T...id.asc&Initial=&lastcat=02100-layout1&Offset=
Are there any other websites that offer set ups like this? I am very interested to look around, especially if atlas is a big no no from you guys.

Well, I know thats alot of questions so take your time! I am not jumping into this at all im just browsing and looking. Thanks! -Ryan
 
rdemattio91 said:
Hello guys, first post! Well, to start off the names Ryan, and I'm ready to get back into model RR! Back when I was young I had a decent O scale lionel set. Well when I got older (15) I was more interested in women then trains, but now I'm starting to get back into it. I want to go HO scale cause it just seems better all around. I want to start off with the right track, the right trains, etc. I don't want to have to change a bunch of track after my layout grows, cars, or locomotives. So, a few questions:

1. What is a good track to use? I was thinking atlas, but whats the difference between true track, code 83, and code 100?

2. What is a good company for HO trains and cars? Bachman, Atlas, etc! I don't want anything cheap, but I can do without 100%top of the line trains.

3. I plan on starting out with DCC, what do I need to look for on locomotives etc? I can take a engine cover off and plug a decoder in if its that simple.

4. I plan on purchasing this track layout to get me started, (if atlas track is good ofcourse) http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/T...id.asc&Initial=&lastcat=02100-layout1&Offset=
Are there any other websites that offer set ups like this? I am very interested to look around, especially if atlas is a big no no from you guys.

Well, I know thats alot of questions so take your time! I am not jumping into this at all im just browsing and looking. Thanks! -Ryan
Click to expand...

Welcome back to the hobby Ryan.

I would suggest building your own custom layout, and not buy some kit with sectional track.

1) figure out how much space you have, the available room to build it.

2) Answer some of these questions. What era ie. modern, steam, early diesle. What's your favorite railroad. Passenger trains, do you want to "switch" cars in a yard, or do you want to watch long trains run through scenery. Mountains, tunnels, bridges, lakes, rivers.

3. Then you can start to get an idea what you want to build. How big, room for expansion, etc.

4. As far as track, go with flex track, it's easy to use and you can creat your own custom radius curves. Better than using sectional track. Code 83 is more popular, it's more prototypical looking, has a lower profile rails.
Good quality track by Walthers, Peco, Microengineering. And for turnouts/switches Peco is my favorite.

5. DCC - You need to pick a DCC control system. Look at NCE and Digitrax. NCE is easier to learn for a beginner.

6. Locomotives - Some of the better and popular brands are Atlas, MTH, BLI, Athearn Genesis, Intermountain. Some locomotives come with DCC and sound. I suggest finding ones that have DCC already for beginners.

Get the model railroaders bible, a must have book. John Armstrong Track Planning for Realistic Operation. http://www.amazon.com/Track-Planning-Realistic-Operation-Railroader/dp/0890242275/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318134141&sr=1-2
 
rdemattio91 said:
Hello guys, first post! Well, to start off the names Ryan, and I'm ready to get back into model RR! Back when I was young I had a decent O scale lionel set. Well when I got older (15) I was more interested in women then trains, but now I'm starting to get back into it. I want to go HO scale cause it just seems better all around. I want to start off with the right track, the right trains, etc. I don't want to have to change a bunch of track after my layout grows, cars, or locomotives. So, a few questions:

1. What is a good track to use? I was thinking atlas, but whats the difference between true track, code 83, and code 100?

2. What is a good company for HO trains and cars? Bachman, Atlas, etc! I don't want anything cheap, but I can do without 100%top of the line trains.

3. I plan on starting out with DCC, what do I need to look for on locomotives etc? I can take a engine cover off and plug a decoder in if its that simple.

4. I plan on purchasing this track layout to get me started, (if atlas track is good ofcourse) http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/T...id.asc&Initial=&lastcat=02100-layout1&Offset=
Are there any other websites that offer set ups like this? I am very interested to look around, especially if atlas is a big no no from you guys.

Well, I know thats alot of questions so take your time! I am not jumping into this at all im just browsing and looking. Thanks! -Ryan
Click to expand...

Hi and welcome back to the hobby!
HO is a very popular scale and one I got into as I got back into the hobby 6 years ago. I had O/O27 as a kid and Some N scale as a teen, but always wanted HO.
Here are some answers to your questions:

1} -Atlas track is a popular track to use. COde 100 has a taller rail profile than code 83. Code 100 also has black ties, is only available in a limited dimensional sectional pieces and switches if you go that route and is great for older locomotives and cars that had "pizza cutter wheels" with deep flanges.
-Code 83 has a shorter rail height profile, comes with more realistic brown ties and has many dimensional sectional pieces and switches than code 100.
-Atlas True track is code 83 track with a detachable gray roadbed built in. Atlas says "True-Track® adheres to high quality, prototypical standards that the hobby world demands. The result is a roadbed trak with true-to-prototype gray, graveled roadbed, a correctly angled roadbed shoulder and Code 83 track. The end result looks every bit like real track with roadbed and ballast". It is great for children who may want to change the pattern of the track and/or if you have to/plan to run the trains on a carpeted surface.
-Keep in mind you want NICKEL SILVER track....NOT STEEL track!

2}You will get as many answers to this question as there are brands and people who buy them. DOn't let price fool you- many people have had trouble with their $200-$300 locos as with a $50-$100 loco.
Lifelike and Model Power stuff tends to be "trainset cheapo quality". Bachmann USED to be that way in the 70's, but they have worked hard to improve their products, image and great service should something go wrong. I personally own 13 Bachmann DCC OnBoard locos, both Spectrum class and regular class, and only one growls at slow speeds. I have not had a lick of trouble with them, even when they have sat ignored almost a year. Mnay will pay the extra to get a BAchmann Spectrum as they are considered Bachmann's cream of the crop. Many spectrum models become regular models later on after the SPectrum runs. They, plus one Athearn I hate make up my roster for my small layout. Mine run just great on my simple to use Bachmann EZ Command DCC system.

3}Depending on your abilities, you should look for locos that are already DCC equipped and marked so, or DCC locos that are marked "DCC ready" and have an 8 or 9 pin plug in decoder, Or for locos that are "DCC ready" and have the motor isolated from the frame but require you to hard wire in a decoder {solder}. I prefer to buy my locos with DCC installed as I can fry a toaster taking it out of the box. {I don't "do" sound i find it annoying and not worth the extra $$}. Keep in mind that many will argue the price of a DCC ready loco, plus the cost of a decoder,shipping and handling, and time to put it in equals the extra cost of buying an already DCC equipped loco.
Now DCC controlers are another matter. I would read up on all if I were you and decide from there. My EZ C system only controls lighting,speed and direction, only has 2 digit addressing and can only run 2 locos without a booster. The Digitrax Zephyr XTRA {spelled correctly} is another popular one. It has 4 digit addressing and can run 3 or 4 locos easily.. It will be my choice for upgrading my EZ C system WHEN I can run more than 2 trains on my layout, such as the one you picked.

4}That Atlas plan looks like a great plan to start with and is in code 83.It will fit a 4x8, allows you to run 2 trains at once, allows for some customer side switching and you COULD build a small spur yard in the center if you like. It is similar to mine, except mine's smaller in size. You will probably spend that amount for separate sectional track pieces to complete that layout,so the price is decent, but I did find it cheaper here by about $25 bucks:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?ID=200434335

Good luck with your endeavor...your next questions will probably be about plywood base, legs or extruded hard foam topped "layout board" on which to build your empire!
:)
 
Motley said:
Welcome back to the hobby Ryan.

I would suggest building your own custom layout, and not buy some kit with sectional track.

1) figure out how much space you have, the available room to build it.

2) Answer some of these questions. What era ie. modern, steam, early diesle. What's your favorite railroad. Passenger trains, do you want to "switch" cars in a yard, or do you want to watch long trains run through scenery. Mountains, tunnels, bridges, lakes, rivers.

3. Then you can start to get an idea what you want to build. How big, room for expansion, etc.

4. As far as track, go with flex track, it's easy to use and you can creat your own custom radius curves. Better than using sectional track. Code 83 is more popular, it's more prototypical looking, has a lower profile rails.
Good quality track by Walthers, Peco, Microengineering. And for turnouts/switches Peco is my favorite.

5. DCC - You need to pick a DCC control system. Look at NCE and Digitrax. NCE is easier to learn for a beginner.

6. Locomotives - Some of the better and popular brands are Atlas, MTH, BLI, Athearn Genesis, Intermountain. Some locomotives come with DCC and sound. I suggest finding ones that have DCC already for beginners.

Get the model railroaders bible, a must have book. John Armstrong Track Planning for Realistic Operation. http://www.amazon.com/Track-Planning-Realistic-Operation-Railroader/dp/0890242275/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1318134141&sr=1-2
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response! Okay, to start off I will probably be using a 4x8. The era I want to do is modern, and my favorite Railroad is Norfolk Southern, but I think I would do Union Pacific as my layout. The reason is beause for me to realistically make a Norfolk layout I would need lots of hills, big bridges, etc. Not that I don't want that, but thats alot to start out. Plus it seems like I can always find union pacific stuff.

I want to have some main lines, and switch yards. I want to have some long trains going!

Concerning track, you were saying use Flex track, but not atlas flex track. These companys Walthers, Peco, Microengineering are better? And with flex track, say I have some regular code 83 track from walthers does it hook up to walthers flex track also? Or is it kinda like if you go flex track it ALL has to be flex track.

I will look into the DCC!
 
galaxy said:
Hi and welcome back to the hobby!
HO is a very popular scale and one I got into as I got back into the hobby 6 years ago. I had O/O27 as a kid and Some N scale as a teen, but always wanted HO.
Here are some answers to your questions:

1} -Atlas track is a popular track to use. COde 100 has a taller rail profile than code 83. Code 100 also has black ties, is only available in a limited dimensional sectional pieces and switches if you go that route and is great for older locomotives and cars that had "pizza cutter wheels" with deep flanges.
-Code 83 has a shorter rail height profile, comes with more realistic brown ties and has many dimensional sectional pieces and switches than code 100.
-Atlas True track is code 83 track with a detachable gray roadbed built in. Atlas says "True-Track® adheres to high quality, prototypical standards that the hobby world demands. The result is a roadbed trak with true-to-prototype gray, graveled roadbed, a correctly angled roadbed shoulder and Code 83 track. The end result looks every bit like real track with roadbed and ballast". It is great for children who may want to change the pattern of the track and/or if you have to/plan to run the trains on a carpeted surface.
-Keep in mind you want NICKEL SILVER track....NOT STEEL track!

2}You will get as many answers to this question as there are brands and people who buy them. DOn't let price fool you- many people have had trouble with their $200-$300 locos as with a $50-$100 loco.
Lifelike and Model Power stuff tends to be "trainset cheapo quality". Bachmann USED to be that way in the 70's, but they have worked hard to improve their products, image and great service should something go wrong. I personally own 13 Bachmann DCC OnBoard locos, both Spectrum class and regular class, and only one growls at slow speeds. I have not had a lick of trouble with them, even when they have sat ignored almost a year. Mnay will pay the extra to get a BAchmann Spectrum as they are considered Bachmann's cream of the crop. Many spectrum models become regular models later on after the SPectrum runs. They, plus one Athearn I hate make up my roster for my small layout. Mine run just great on my simple to use Bachmann EZ Command DCC system.

3}Depending on your abilities, you should look for locos that are already DCC equipped and marked so, or DCC locos that are marked "DCC ready" and have an 8 or 9 pin plug in decoder, Or for locos that are "DCC ready" and have the motor isolated from the frame but require you to hard wire in a decoder {solder}. I prefer to buy my locos with DCC installed as I can fry a toaster taking it out of the box. {I don't "do" sound i find it annoying and not worth the extra $$}. Keep in mind that many will argue the price of a DCC ready loco, plus the cost of a decoder,shipping and handling, and time to put it in equals the extra cost of buying an already DCC equipped loco.
Now DCC controlers are another matter. I would read up on all if I were you and decide from there. My EZ C system only controls lighting,speed and direction, only has 2 digit addressing and can only run 2 locos without a booster. The Digitrax Zephyr XTRA {spelled correctly} is another popular one. It has 4 digit addressing and can run 3 or 4 locos easily.. It will be my choice for upgrading my EZ C system WHEN I can run more than 2 trains on my layout, such as the one you picked.

4}That Atlas plan looks like a great plan to start with and is in code 83.It will fit a 4x8, allows you to run 2 trains at once, allows for some customer side switching and you COULD build a small spur yard in the center if you like. It is similar to mine, except mine's smaller in size. You will probably spend that amount for separate sectional track pieces to complete that layout,so the price is decent, but I did find it cheaper here by about $25 bucks:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?ID=200434335

Good luck with your endeavor...your next questions will probably be about plywood base, legs or extruded hard foam topped "layout board" on which to build your empire!
:)
Click to expand...

So you say Atlas track is good, I guess it's opinion based. But thats where I'm currently leaning.

Thats crazy cause I just assumed Bachmann was the cheapo brand. I had a small ho scale layout a few years back (just on the floor) and the bachman trains just seemed cheap. Ofcourse, it was a 60$ set for everything so it was probably their cheapest quality.

I think I could could plug a decoder in, but I could'nt soulder yet.

So I'm glad to see you agree with the track set up. I think its a good place to start and have 2 trains going. Then I can see what the track is like and such.

The one thing I want with DCC is that it is a wireless remote. I want to be able to walk around they layout and control the trains.
Thanks, Ryan
 
Hi Ryan, glad your getting back into the MRRing. I'm one of the old timers in the hobby and have seen many changes and built several layouts in the process.

You seem to have a fairly good grip on what your interested in as to the time period and equipment which is good.

The thing I would highly suggest, providing you have the space is to create an 'L' shaped layout as opposed to having just an oval track plan. An 'L' shaped layout breaks up the route of the trains and offers more variation in operation and can be also done so it on two different elevations for more variation yet.

As far as the current Engines most of the mfg. are producing fairly good quality equipment. I always liked to at least assemble my engines but there seem to be fewer if any that offer that any more as so much is ready to run especially when DCC equiped.

As far as track, flex track is by far the fastest to get layed down, just don't drive the small nails in the middle of the track down any more than just slightly toching the top surface of the ties!

Code 83 with the brown ties look a lot more prototypical to me as a photographer than black ties but it's a bit more costly too as are the switches.

There are a number of free layout design of programs available on the web. I just downloaded SCARM but have not got to really getting to learn it but many seem to like it and the creator has added a number of advantages to it and also make upgrades to it also as well as the fact it does give you a 3 dimensional view too.

I'd give things a bit of thought and definitely try to plan in some operation to make things more interesting.

While I have not given any real specifics it's food for thought.

Hope this helps a bit?
 
While I will admit that Code 83 track may look "more prototypical" than Code 100, the latter has the advantage of handling just about any HO rolling stock new or older used. With the Atlas design on a 4' x 8' layout, you will be working with 22-inch radius on the outer track and probably 18-in. on the inner oval, as these are the common sectional track radii Atlas makes. (They also make 15-in. curve sectional track.) For best result with these curves, you will need to restrict your rolling stock somewhat to 40-50 ft. cars and probably shorter switcher and road engines. By shorter, I mean SW1500-type yard diesels and possibly F7 hood units, rather than more modern SD70's, and 80-ft. container carriers, bathtub gondolas, etc. If you want to run passenger trains, I'd look at Athearn and Con-Cor's 72-ft. streamliners and the new Con-Cor heavyweight suburban 60 footers. Some steam locomotives will work fine on 18-inch radius curves. The Bowser/Mantua Pacific comes to mind, as does a Climax should you go for the logging railroad concept.

Welcome (back) to the hobby! Feel free to ask for help. (You'll still have to sort out which excellent advice you want to take from the various experienced hobbiests.))

Highball on #1!
 
Trussrod said:
Hi Ryan, glad your getting back into the MRRing. I'm one of the old timers in the hobby and have seen many changes and built several layouts in the process.

You seem to have a fairly good grip on what your interested in as to the time period and equipment which is good.

The thing I would highly suggest, providing you have the space is to create an 'L' shaped layout as opposed to having just an oval track plan. An 'L' shaped layout breaks up the route of the trains and offers more variation in operation and can be also done so it on two different elevations for more variation yet.

As far as the current Engines most of the mfg. are producing fairly good quality equipment. I always liked to at least assemble my engines but there seem to be fewer if any that offer that any more as so much is ready to run
especially when DCC equiped.

As far as track, flex track is by far the fastest to get layed down, just don't
drive the small nails in the middle of the track down any more than just slightly toching the top surface of the ties!

Code 83 with the brown ties look a lot more prototypical to me as a
photographer than black ties but it's a bit more costly too as are the switches.

There are a number of free layout design of programs available on the web. I just downloaded SCARM but have not got to really getting to learn it but many seem to like it and the creator has added a number of advantages to it and also make upgrades to it also as well as the fact it does give you a 3 dimensional view too.

I'd give things a bit of thought and definitely try to plan in some operation to
make things more interesting.

While I have not given any real specifics it's food for thought.

Hope this helps a bit?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I Am deff planning on expanding the layout into a L and then hopefully a "u" so we will see.
 
Concerning DCC, I have been looking at the NCE Powercab Starter set. Now its a 2 A set up. So say a year or two down the road I am starting to get up to 3-4 locos at a time and I want to upgrade, do I just purchase the transformer to increase the amps or do I have to buy all new system?

Also, it says it can run 2 trains. Now my question is, does that mean 2 engines, or 2 trains consisting of 2+ engines? Say I had a long freight train with 3 locos and a small train with a loco will this 2 A starter set keep all this running?

And one last question, LOL! Concerning running multiple locos in the same train, how does that work? Like how do you make all 3-4 locos all run at the same power so one isnt getting pulled while others are getting pushed? (and burnt up)
Thanks, Ryan!
 
Welcome back. I too am getting back into the hobby myself so I'm kinda reading along here to learn more. I myself am starting back in DC then upgrade later. Good luck with the layout and keep us posted on progress.
 
rdemattio91 said:
Concerning DCC, I have been looking at the NCE Powercab Starter set. Now its a 2 A set up. So say a year or two down the road I am starting to get up to 3-4 locos at a time and I want to upgrade, do I just purchase the transformer to increase the amps or do I have to buy all new system?

Also, it says it can run 2 trains. Now my question is, does that mean 2 engines, or 2 trains consisting of 2+ engines? Say I had a long freight train with 3 locos and a small train with a loco will this 2 A starter set keep all this running?

And one last question, LOL! Concerning running multiple locos in the same train, how does that work? Like how do you make all 3-4 locos all run at the same power so one isnt getting pulled while others are getting pushed? (and burnt up)
Thanks, Ryan!
Click to expand...

I believe the answer to the first question is, "Yes!" You purchase the additional transformer, and possibly one other component.

Most of the modern DCC or DCC-ready locomotives have motors that don't draw nearly as much as, say, the old "Blue Box" Athearn "diesel" locomotives' motors. I normally run a powered A and a powered B unit on my trains. This is enough to easily pull a dozen-plus (about all I have room for that looks right) freight cars up a 3 percent grade, and the current draw on these older DC Athearns approaches 2 amps! So, when I bought a powered A-B set of DCC + sound, which require DCC to get the most out of sound, but so I can also run the old units (NOT together), I picked the MDC Tech 6 with the 6.0 amp power pack. (Had I to do it over, I might have invested more and gotten the NCE system, WITH the additional transformer.)

Others will undoubtedly have better answers, but I believe the "2 trains" probably means two separate trains at a time, given the low-current draw of the DCC motors. To get two units to run together, you either give both the same address, or, if they appear to be running at drastically different speeds (just set them on the same track, UNcoupled and a bit of separation between them, and see if one is catching up or moving quickly away from the other. In that case, you will probably have to change the speed range on one or the other by changing the Configuration Value (CV) that controls speed. I have been pretty lucky in that my F7A/B with DCC and sound from Proto 2000 seem to run pretty well together. Most of my DC Athearns also seem to run fairly well together.

Highball on #1!
 
rdemattio91 said:
Hello guys, first post! Well, to start off the names Ryan, and I'm ready to get back into model RR! Back when I was young I had a decent O scale lionel set. Well when I got older (15) I was more interested in women then trains, but now I'm starting to get back into it. I want to go HO scale cause it just seems better all around. I want to start off with the right track, the right trains, etc. I don't want to have to change a bunch of track after my layout grows, cars, or locomotives. So, a few questions:

1. What is a good track to use? I was thinking atlas, but whats the difference between true track, code 83, and code 100?

2. What is a good company for HO trains and cars? Bachman, Atlas, etc! I don't want anything cheap, but I can do without 100%top of the line trains.

3. I plan on starting out with DCC, what do I need to look for on locomotives etc? I can take a engine cover off and plug a decoder in if its that simple.

4. I plan on purchasing this track layout to get me started, (if atlas track is good ofcourse) http://www.trainsetsonly.com/page/T...id.asc&Initial=&lastcat=02100-layout1&Offset=
Are there any other websites that offer set ups like this? I am very interested to look around, especially if atlas is a big no no from you guys.

Well, I know thats alot of questions so take your time! I am not jumping into this at all im just browsing and looking. Thanks! -Ryan
Click to expand...

welcome back. If you are modelling modern equipment you'll want a min. 22"rad. I like Micro-engineering flex track for laying curves. It isn't springy like Atlas. However, it has a smaller rail head than Atlas and Walthers/Shinohara. I have the older standby company engines, Athearn, Atlas,P2K,Steeart and Walthers, many are 15-25 y/o. Some run better than others. I operate DC. There are several books on DCC. Check also with your local hobbysho if you have one and local model railroad clubs may also be of some help Phil
 
what do you guys think of the bachmann ez control dcc system? I see alot of starter sets with that, and that would be nice to start off with.
 
rdemattio91 said:
what do you guys think of the bachmann ez control dcc system? I see alot of starter sets with that, and that would be nice to start off with.
Click to expand...

Ok, let me answer two of your questions right off.

First is the Bachmann EZ C DCC controller.
It is available with a loco if you like in a set. It is a great simple little controller that can run 2 locos, maybe three if they draw few amps {current editons NOT older or Athearn "blue box" locos which draw significantly more.The EZ C has 1 amp to work with. You can buy a 5 am booster to run more locos for the EZ C here:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?Scale=HO&Item=RGBVCW&ID=200425957
On your layout plan you can run two locos one on each loop. If you get two Bachman units, you can easily program two to run in a lashup {see below for lashup} on one train consist such as a A/B units on a train and possibly another single engine train on the other oval.
I only have Bachmann DCC ONBoard locos {13 of em}, so I have little trouble with them on my EZ C. THey only have lights, direction control or speed to control the DCCC way. I don't "do' sound-don't like it.
THe EZ C is easy to program and while the #10 spot CAN run a DC loco, I don't mix any DC with my DCC'S to be sure not to burn something up. The #10 spot also turns on/off lighting. SO I don't use it as a programming number. WHat I CAN do is asign two SEPARATE locos, OR TWO in a LASHUP {A/B for instance together- see below for lashup} on ONE number. WIth two separate locos on a number I can run up to 18 different locos- as LOng as you are not running the two assigned to a number together!!!. With 2 lashups assigned, you can run 9 sets of 2 lashed up locos again, not at the same time, but with the booster you can.

Now second question to answer for you is about lashups. A lashup is two {or more} locos aligned with in a train consist..a consist being one train length....You will need a booster On ANY DCC SYSTEM you buy IF you plan to run 4 lashedup locos on one train consist!!! Especially if you want to run TWO such train consists...or EIGHT locos alltogether on a system!!!
Well, some systems like the Digitrax Zephyr Xtra have 3 amps so if all four locos only draw a half amp each then you could lashup 4 in one train and 2 in another train to run on your second loop. THat would MAX OUT YOUR DCC controller though and WOULD BE TOO MUCH FOR THE EZ C!! The EZC can only comfortably run 3 locos, though some guys have said they do four or more..depending on amp draw of each loco..the EZ C only has to 2 amps to work with!

Now- you can "speed match" locos on the more expensive DCC sets so there is no push/pull on the locos. On the Bachmann EZ C, I happen to have a Bachmann DCC oN Board FT A & B set that I run together in one consist and usually can run another Bachmann DCC OnBoard single loco in another consist on the two ovals of my layout {similar to your planned purchase design.}That is easy to do..UNLESS you have modern Bachmann short nose diesels and want to direct one short nose forward and one long nose forward then on the Bachmann DCC DVD it shows you how to "assign" front direction for two locos to be lashed up like that. and then you just program them for the same number and they should speed match well like my A/B set does.
On other DCC systems...you have to assign direction and ""Speed match" locos..ESPECIALLY if of different brands of locos.I don't know much about all that as I only have 2 EZ C controllers..one for each of my two layouts.

I may have confused you more {may have confused myself here}. SO if you have more questions after this be sure to ask!
;)
 
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Wow, good post! That help a bunch! After reading that, I am probably going for the NCE system. This is the deciding question, I plan on just buying bachhman dcc locos for now (no sound, ditch lights, etc) BUT evenutually buying locos with sound on board and mixing them in my consist to give sounds to each consist. I understand the bachmann locos do not have sound, but can the EZ command make use of locos with sound? Both systems have 2 amps so I would need a booster shortly after making the layout.
 
Having just returned to the hobby myself I can tell you that the NCE Powercab is fantastic. Pretty easy to get the hang of and it's all modular with the other NCE stuff, so nothing is useless the moment you need more trains. I can't find the exact parapraph now that I'm looking for it, but somewhere in the manual it states that it can handle up to two HO locomotives or four N locos.

You make consists by creating a new consist address, which is dead simple on the NCE Powercab. First you would assign the consist an address, the default being 127. It then asks for the address of the lead loco, then the direction it's facing relative to the rest of the train. Next step is to add a "rear loco", which is skippable but follows the same process. Finally you can add additional locos that would be in the middle somewhere. When you're done, all the locos specified to be part of the consist would have "127" written to CV19 (advanced consist address).

To give an example let's say I made loco #401 the lead loco, #404 the rear, and locos #402 & #403 are in the middle. Now when you select loco #401, the Powercab recognizes that is the lead loco of consist 127 and it sends the commands to all locos with 127 written to CV19. You can still manually select other locos within the consist to turn on lights and such as well. If you select loco #404, the Powercab knows you are running the train in the other direction now because that is the rear loco, so forward will make the consist run in the opposite direction to what would be forward if you were still in loco #803. It's not always needed (which is why you can skip it), but it's good for say double-ended trains that don't turn around, like an Amtrak Acela or a TGV.

Hope that helps. :)
 
It all sounds pretty easy! I'm excited to get going. Another question for ya'll =D lol. I see alot of loco's DCC equipped. Now I'm pretty confident that I can take a cover off and plug a decoder into a circuit board, what im not confident in is what decoders to buy!
 
rdemattio91 said:
Wow, good post! That help a bunch! After reading that, I am probably going for the NCE system. This is the deciding question, I plan on just buying bachhman dcc locos for now (no sound, ditch lights, etc) BUT evenutually buying locos with sound on board and mixing them in my consist to give sounds to each consist. I understand the bachmann locos do not have sound, but can the EZ command make use of locos with sound? Both systems have 2 amps so I would need a booster shortly after making the layout.
Click to expand...

First, glad it was of help.

As I think I have said before I just LOVE my Bachmann DCC OnBoard locos. They fit my budget and do what I want.

I do not know the answer to your question about how they handle sound locos. I will try to find out for you but it wont be tonight! If they do allow for sound, then it would be whatever the default at the factory is as with the EZ C there is no way "control" those sound features. SOme sound locos come with like 100 different sound noises- like 13 different horn sounds- and so you have to cinfigure each sound loco as you wnat it to sound form the available sounds the decoder carries.

Your idea of a lashup with just one sound loco sounds good. I don't like sound locos as it sounds to "tinny" for my high-pitched sensitive ears for one thing, and I can't imagine the deafing noise 4 lashed up locos would make!!!

The Bachamnn DOES make SOUND locos..Called DCC SOUND OnBoard locos. The Spectrum series, which is Bachmann's "cream of the crop" locos. FOr example here:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/Detail.asp?Scale=HO&Item=CRT2662BAC&ID=200501302

This one is a little large to be running aorund the tight curves your planned layout wilhave, but it ws the quickest one I could show you.

Yes, you will need the boosters if you wnat to run several locos at once. Remember: the newer ones are less amp draw than older ones and just cuz its sitting onthe shelf in a hobby store, don't mean it's newer!! There are still some older Athearn "blue box"es out there on shelves.

You can hunt and poke around the site here under the left pull down menus for "bachmann" to see what they have. I should also like to point out under that title, you will find a category for "EZ Command"..in which you WILL find Bachmann's newest "DYNAMIS" DCC COntroller- which DOES handle sound and is infared wireless. I don't know a thing about that though!
Here is the link:
http://www.wholesaletrains.com/HOProducts2.asp?Scale=HO&SPECIAL=0


Again, hope i have been helpful, and good luck inyour new endeavor!
;)
 
rdemattio91 said:
It all sounds pretty easy! I'm excited to get going. Another question for ya'll =D lol. I see alot of loco's DCC equipped. Now I'm pretty confident that I can take a cover off and plug a decoder into a circuit board, what im not confident in is what decoders to buy!
Click to expand...

First, If is says "DCC equiped" it HAS a decoder in it. If it Says "DCC READY" it NEEDS a decoder. You wrote above "DCC EQUIPED" which would mena it has the decoder already in it. People will argue over quaity of decoders, sound of decoders {when you get to that stage}, etc. as there are many different brands of decoders.

Here is who you can call who can tell you about decoders and what one is correct to buy per loco brand, name and etc:

http://www.litchfieldstation.com/xcart/home.php

Call them up and ask to talk to the "DCC guy" who knows all and he will set you up right. They are a small outfit that only handles DCC and products for DCC. They will have some Bachmann locos - "DCC SOund OnBoard" locos included apparently in November. They really DON't carry locos, but apparently they are going to carry Bachmanns.

Oh, one OTHER thing: I looked at the Dynamis posting at the site above and it says "Allows 40 consists of up to five locomotives each. " THAT is what ALL DCC controllers will say something like, BUT do NOT be fooled...that is IF you have the BOOSTERS and the AMP power!!! NOT the basic controller right out of the box!!! BE forwarned!!!That is the MAXIMUM performance you can expect with the booster power the controler will allow!!!

Good lUck!
;)
 
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Well I stopped bye a local hobby shop, (Esther's Hobby) and the owner seemed pretty cool. He tried to convince me from DCC (He is an old DC fan) but he said if I am going DCC he said Digitrax is the best. He seemed pretty informative and has a HUGE selection of trains (mainly N scale). His shop is 20% off whatever the MSRP is. He has a website, check it out! Esthershobby.com
 
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