Cn Gp38-2w


CP9302

CP9302

Member
I've always liked CN's GP38-2W. 38's are cool, and one with a wide cab is even better in my book!

I decided that this would be a great project to test out the Railflyer Model Prototypes parts on.

Now that I've received my first order of Railflyer Model Prototypes parts, I can get started on this project.

First up is the fuel tank. The main tank is injection molded with a cavity inside for the weight to go in. There are photo etched end plates and reinforced top plate.

Top of the tank:
RFMP-MK4062-3.jpg


Bottom of the tank:
RFMP-MK4062-4.jpg
 
Railflyer has a huge selection of step wells, including several variations on the distinctive Canadian "Ladder" style steps. Thankfully Chris H is very helpful in making sure you get the proper parts for your prototype.

I soldered most of the step well together and used CA to glue the treads to the tops of the steps.

RFMP-DP6001-built.jpg


These step wells are a great addition to any model to improve its appearance.
 
This is the frame kit that I'll be using:
RFMP-MK4031-1.jpg


The kit has injection molded frame halves, bolsters, walkway duct and scale couple pocket covers. The frame halves are hollow to accept the included weights. The front and rear weights are notched so you can run wires for ditch lights. The kit also has photo etched side sills, and bolster plates.

Here we have the bolster plates installed.
GP38-2W-bolsterplates.jpg


And here are the side sills, drilled for stanchions and glued to the frame. Pay close attention to the stanchion locations on the brakeman's side behind the cab. I also soldered the side sills to the bolsters.
GP38-2W-sidesills.jpg


And here is a really cool feature that I all most "fixed". The fuel tank hangs bellow the frame, so you can see through the gap. I was going to sand this down so it fit up tight until Chris H told me it was supposed to be that way! He hasn't missed a thing with these kits.
GP38-2W-fueltanktestfit.jpg
 
Great start to a custom build Fred. I also am a fan of the CN GP38-2W and can't wait to see this one evolve.
 
macjet said:
I'd be interested in doing the same. How would you go about powering the thing though? Rookie question I know.
Click to expand...

The Railflyer engine building system will include the drive system as well as everything else needed to complete your model.

I can see an SD40-2W in my future one day...
 
Lots of work there Fred, but it sure looks like it's going to come out as a nice model. Great constuction photos too, somethng I always remember to do after I'm done with a project.
 
CP9302 said:
The Railflyer engine building system will include the drive system as well as everything else needed to complete your model.

I can see an SD40-2W in my future one day...
Click to expand...

Awesome. The modern day Rock Island needs a pair. I've been searching ebay for Kato undecs but my modeling standards seem to be going up. Perhaps this is the way I need to go.

Thanks for the info.
 
I've done some more work on my GP38-2W, the basic frame is now fully assembled with jack pads, pilots, step wells and coupler plates. I can't wait for
more parts to arrive so I can start super detailing the frame!

Here are the jack pads installed. These are highly detailed plastic injection molded parts. They could be added to any RTR engine to improve its appearance.
GP38-2W-jackpads.jpg


This is the scale coupler plate. It is a four piece injection molded part that requires assembly. Due to the fact that HO scale couplers are over sized, they will not fit this coupler plate without modification.
DP6182.jpg


Here is the rear pilot, step wells and coupler plate installed on the frame.
GP38-2W-rearpilot.jpg


And the last photo for this update, the tread plate for the walkways. This is photo etched on very thin (.006" IIRC) brass. The tread detail is very fine. The parts are divided into separate pieces just like the prototype. You can also buy tread plate by the sheet and strip to custom fit any project.
DP6106.jpg
 
River Run said:
Fred, check out this website, it may solve your coupler problems.

http://www.sergentengineering.com/

en87s.gif


mountdims.gif
Click to expand...

Thanks Randy, I may have to resort to that, but since my rolling stock don't have sergents, it is not the ideal solution. I may have to start running an idler car like I did when switching over to kadee years ago! Sergent on one end, Kadee on the other! Hopefully the demand will be there and Kadee will make a scale shank coupler. Or maybe McHenry will beat them to it.
 
Is that the same coupler that is in the Athearn Genesis Trinity hoppers? If so, the shank is not long enough for this application. I tried already! Thanks for the heads up though.
 
I doubt it. The Genesis cars should have McHenry couplers.

*One minute later, after checking Athearn's site*
Oh well heck, I never noticed they came with them. I'm guessing its the same coupler, as there's only one Accumate P:87 I know of.
 
Fred, I wish I could help you with the coupler problem but your idler car solution just may be the easiet thing in the long run. One thing I know for sure, your GP-38 is probably going to have more man hours into than any other GP-38 on the planet. I think you should slop some rust on it when you're done and sell it for $1,000 on e-bay. :)
 
wheeler1963 said:
Fred, won't the KayDee long shank couplers work??
Click to expand...

The shank is too wide to fit, the length would be fine. The problem with most couplers is that the mounting pin inside the coupler pocket is very big, so the end of the shank is wide to go over that pin. That makes the coupler too wide to slide into the pocket.

The accurail P:87 is small enough to fit, but not long enough to reach the pin in the pocket. I'm not a huge fan of the accurail coupler anyway.
 
UP2CSX said:
Fred, I wish I could help you with the coupler problem but your idler car solution just may be the easiet thing in the long run. One thing I know for sure, your GP-38 is probably going to have more man hours into than any other GP-38 on the planet. I think you should slop some rust on it when you're done and sell it for $1,000 on e-bay. :)
Click to expand...

I plan to weather it quite heavily. But there is no way in heck I'll sell it on ebay. It is a labour of love for the enjoyment of the hobby
 
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