I would appreciate any suggestions on how to solve this problem. I know there is no "right way" but probably a lot of "bad ways"
Summary: I'm building a "Sectional Layout" with 8 sections about 6'x2' max each (various sizes). They are each a frame of 3'1's with 2'x's underneath (L-Girder style) which frame a piece of 2" extruded foam. I then attach these sections underneath with with wing nuts. They come in prety close and secure (some wobbling I'm working on.
Now the problem. The fit is not perfect, AND I want to be able to detach the sections occasionally to work on them or (heaven forbid) need to move. NOt often, in fact I hope I'll NEVER have to seperate them but I know I will.
I've worked out the wiring and under-benchwork details on this to my satisfaction. Now the actual surface. If this was perminant benchwork I'd sand them smooth, putty them (with foam putty, spackle&paint or grout or caulking), sand & paint that and be done. But I want to be able to seperate them later so the edges need to survive detachment, re-attachment and (ug) vertical and diagnal misplacement while I try to fit them into place.
I've studied the NTRAK work on this and its close to what I want, but I dont think I need anything so formal. Since each section only buds up against a single other section I think I'm more free to improvise.
The problems I imagine are
1) How to get track to align and survive pulling the sections both apart and up, possibly at an angle, without thrashing the joints.
2) How the get the scenery (grass, rocks etc) to survive and look like there is no or minimal joints.
I think I'm going to solve the "Big Scenery" problem (mountians in Foam) by making them detachable so I can remove a big item (mountian, building etc) before detaching.
But how to do #1 & #2 ?
I've attached some picture of the joints to give you an idea.
My ideas
Spackle or foam or calk or the joints, let dry, then cut with a razor so they come apart. I've done some experiments and the Caulking works best at this, but I'm skeptical I can sand it, plus there was shrinkage. But still I think I can get close.
Rails ... Ug.
A) Build the rails (I'm hand laying) right over the joints, then cut with a dremmel at the joints. Live with the 1/16" gap
B) Build the rails up close to each edge of the joints individually and but them up to each other.
C) Do what NTrack does and leave a 2.5" gap on both sides and plug it with a bit of flextrack (or hand-laid in my case). But I'll need to power that track, so I suspect I'll need the connecting piece drop-fed to power. (ug).
Realize the tracks may not cross at 90deg ... the gaps may occur on turns (but I will NOT let them occur on switches !)
Scenery.
Spackle/putty/calk as above and just seperate and put back. Sprinkle some ground cover back on when its back togther.
Dig out a section say 1" wide by 4mm on each side ... enough room for a standard section of Midwest Cork to lay over it. This would give me a 'gap cover' piece of cork which I could scenery over then lift out before detaching the pieces.
Do the same with wood ... use a thin sliver of wood or even (gasp) a 1'x2 or plywood or modeling ply over the gap. Dont glue it down.
Somehow the scenery soluition has to mesh with the track solution.
Suggestions ? Comments ? Am I crazy ?
Summary: I'm building a "Sectional Layout" with 8 sections about 6'x2' max each (various sizes). They are each a frame of 3'1's with 2'x's underneath (L-Girder style) which frame a piece of 2" extruded foam. I then attach these sections underneath with with wing nuts. They come in prety close and secure (some wobbling I'm working on.
Now the problem. The fit is not perfect, AND I want to be able to detach the sections occasionally to work on them or (heaven forbid) need to move. NOt often, in fact I hope I'll NEVER have to seperate them but I know I will.
I've worked out the wiring and under-benchwork details on this to my satisfaction. Now the actual surface. If this was perminant benchwork I'd sand them smooth, putty them (with foam putty, spackle&paint or grout or caulking), sand & paint that and be done. But I want to be able to seperate them later so the edges need to survive detachment, re-attachment and (ug) vertical and diagnal misplacement while I try to fit them into place.
I've studied the NTRAK work on this and its close to what I want, but I dont think I need anything so formal. Since each section only buds up against a single other section I think I'm more free to improvise.
The problems I imagine are
1) How to get track to align and survive pulling the sections both apart and up, possibly at an angle, without thrashing the joints.
2) How the get the scenery (grass, rocks etc) to survive and look like there is no or minimal joints.
I think I'm going to solve the "Big Scenery" problem (mountians in Foam) by making them detachable so I can remove a big item (mountian, building etc) before detaching.
But how to do #1 & #2 ?
I've attached some picture of the joints to give you an idea.
My ideas
Spackle or foam or calk or the joints, let dry, then cut with a razor so they come apart. I've done some experiments and the Caulking works best at this, but I'm skeptical I can sand it, plus there was shrinkage. But still I think I can get close.
Rails ... Ug.
A) Build the rails (I'm hand laying) right over the joints, then cut with a dremmel at the joints. Live with the 1/16" gap
B) Build the rails up close to each edge of the joints individually and but them up to each other.
C) Do what NTrack does and leave a 2.5" gap on both sides and plug it with a bit of flextrack (or hand-laid in my case). But I'll need to power that track, so I suspect I'll need the connecting piece drop-fed to power. (ug).
Realize the tracks may not cross at 90deg ... the gaps may occur on turns (but I will NOT let them occur on switches !)
Scenery.
Spackle/putty/calk as above and just seperate and put back. Sprinkle some ground cover back on when its back togther.
Dig out a section say 1" wide by 4mm on each side ... enough room for a standard section of Midwest Cork to lay over it. This would give me a 'gap cover' piece of cork which I could scenery over then lift out before detaching the pieces.
Do the same with wood ... use a thin sliver of wood or even (gasp) a 1'x2 or plywood or modeling ply over the gap. Dont glue it down.
Somehow the scenery soluition has to mesh with the track solution.
Suggestions ? Comments ? Am I crazy ?
