blue line 4-8-4

[jscw1]

I have a new blue line 4-8-4 and it runs and sounds great! I would highly reccommend it. However, even though the specs say it will run on a minimum 18 inch radius the front four wheels jump the track on 22 inch radius curves. Is there some sort of adjustment that can be done to cure this slight problem? Help!


Just an update on my problem with the 4-8-4 AT&SF Blue Line. No matter what the factory says I would reccommend running this train on 24 inch radius or above. I double checked every turn, they are exact and smooth but no matter the front four support wheels jump the track. I contacted the factory and they said they really did not have an answer. Do not think the engine is junk, it is one of the smoothest and best sounding trains on the market. Relunctently, I have sent it back for a refund and replaced it with a 2-8-2 heavy Mikato Great Northern. I can't wait until that one arrives. I have other Mikatos and they run great on my lay out. Thanks for the advice I got. Jack Strong

 

[jerrytbirdsc]

I just purchased the Blue Line ATSF #3754 4-8-4. I did a quick test on some Atlas snap track with 18" curves and had it throw the front four pilot and even the first set of drivers once or twice. Biggest problem I had was on a rerailer that is 18". I was thinking about buying some new track for my temporary setup and was wondering if 22" would be big enough. I was looking at some Kato HO unitrack and you can get 24", and 26" radius for not much more money. I'm suprised that 22" isn't enough though. I haven't ran it anymore until I buy some better track. Snap track doesn't stay together very well with just the joiners holding things together. I just set this up for my nephew for Christmas but now the train bug has me too. There is a forum on Broadway limited website, I would ask there. I bought mine from Factory Direct Trains for $149 plus $7 shipping, and I also purchased a Digitrax DZ125PS decoder for it.

Jerry

 

[Espeefan]

I have a new blue line 4-8-4 and it runs and sounds great! I would highly reccommend it. However, even though the specs say it will run on a minimum 18 inch radius the front four wheels jump the track on 22 inch radius curves. Is there some sort of adjustment that can be done to cure this slight problem? Help!

Yep! Adjust your minimum radius out to about 24"

Although these large engines may negotiate these very small radii, they will typically not do it reliably, and look silly while doing it. The best thing to do if you must have 18" radius curves is to stick to smaller power. Four axle diesels and smaller steamers, nothing larger than a 2-8-2, and large 2-8-2's may even push the envelope. I once tried to run a really nice 4-8-2 around a tight radius and it just jumped right off the rails.

 

[Boilerbuster]

I have 22 inch turns and mine does fine. But when I finaly build my full layout the turns will be above 30 inch and I may only build it with flex track. with the exceptions of around switches and the switches themselves.
The BLI SF 4-8-4s are ment for Higher end users i would think they are very nice units thought.

 

[UP2CSX]

As Don said, the 4-8-4 will run on 22" curves. It dosen't look the most realistic but it will run. The problem is the alignment of the curve has to be perfect. Inspect each joint to make sure it's smooth and even, with the rails level in each joiner. Check for any tiny kinks that make the curve wobble even a little. Run you finger over each rail and file any bumps or rough spots smooth. It took me a while of adjusting and filing to get my curves smooth and properly aligned but I can run some fairly large power on them without derailing. As usual, if you have the room, a bigger radius curve is always the best.