Benchwork advice solicited.

[Tim]

My layout space can accommodate 6' x 24" and a leg added at right angles to one end of that of 42" x 24" for total overall outside dimensions of 6' x 5'8". Not building huge mountains, just rural industry, so weight is not a concern. The 42" x 24" section must be separable should I ever decide to move. Just how heavy should my verticals be? Would a pair of 1x2's screwed at 90 degrees to each other be sufficient for each corner? What about diagonal bracing? Longitudinal supports?

Any information anyone can provide about building benchwork would be very helpful to us noobs.

Thanks in advance.

Tim

 

[Rico]

I would think 1x2's glued und screwed at a 90 like an "L girder" should be okay.
I used 2x2's with tee nuts and carriage bolts for leveling and they were more than adequate. 2x2's tend to warp however, your idea may be better.
I braced the legs with 1x2's in an "x" at 6" from the floor for stability.
Now I'm going with custom metal brackets off the walls but only to gain storage and access underneath.

 

[RexHea]

Rico has it right.
The one thing that narrow benchwork has a tendency to do is teeter (I found this out a few years ago on a friends N scale. I derailed every car in the yard.). Run you a horizontal brace across the width and low on the legs; this will help, but not cure. If you could attach to the wall somewhere or secure the legs to the floor with 90deg angles, it would really help. If you are trying to avoid holes in the house/apartment, snug the benchwork into the corner and put something heavy against the legs to hold it there (box filled with junk ).
Just some thoughts.

 

[NYC_George]

Construction ideas

Hi Tim
Since I’ve always thought I may have to move out of New York some day a lot of my 24’ X 30’ sectional layout is clammed together for rapid take down. Our club also has come up with a design for layout sections. After the golfing season is over I plan on posting some of these ideas.

NYC_George

 

[CBCNSfan]

Hi Tim
Since I’ve always thought I may have to move out of New York some day a lot of my 24’ X 30’ sectional layout is clammed together for rapid take down. Our club also has come up with a design for layout sections. After the golfing season is over I plan on posting some of these ideas.

NYC_George

Hi George, I'll be looking forward to seeing some of the ideas when you have time.
Why not post them now, golf is kind of a silly pastime anyway, just imagine, hitting a ball and then chasing it. If I might suggest get a dog to chase the ball and you'll have more time for model rail

On second thought, maybe some of my ideas are not the best

Cheers Willis

 

[Tim]

Thanks a lot, guys, for the information and suggestions. While awaiting replies, I prepared this (very) rough sketch of what I have in mind. Only drew the three front legs. Total of 6 legs, three shown + 3 on rear corners. Since it will sit on carpet, I'll place squares of 1x4 under the legs to avoid damage.Might include a triangular section where the two portions join to facilitate a curve from one section to the other. Switching industries at each end. Almost no "mainline" as such.

Thoughts?

Tim

 

[RexHea]

Tim, that should work just fine with the diagonal bracing. If you can make the 1x4 floor pads longer, even go all the way from inside legs to outside legs on the floor with a few inches beyond, they would help stablize the benchwork. Attach pads with metal angle braces to the legs (Lowes). Even a few inches longer would help a lot. The fact that it will be "L" shaped is good and in a corner better, but anything you can do to keep it stable will help you from jarring things around.

 

[Tim]

Spent the bulk of the day building the benchwork. See pic below. The track on the main section on the left (A modified Inglenook Sidings) had been previously laid on a 6' x 16" pine board to which I added a 1"x6" on the rear and a 1"x4" on the front.

I decided to go with 1"x4" construction for several reasons. For reasonable prices, I could get STRAIGHT pieces, whereas 1"x2" was so warped, twisted and crooked it was unusable at any price. Legs are 1"x4" "L's" both glued and screwed together. They are joined to the table frame with 6 screws - 3 each side. I used a whole box of 100 #6 x 1 1/4" wood screws - had 4 left over.

Later I'll add cross pieces between the 4 legs of the large section and place a 1"x8" shelf on it, set back in, to provide some storage space.

The two sections are keyed together by short pieces of 1/2" dowel, glued to the 24"x42" section. A total of 5 screws join and stabilize the connection between sections.

The table is rock stable as it stands, and quite capable of supporting my full weight.

Next problem is deciding on a track plan for the right side. I'm leaning toward the one shown in the 2nd pic. connected to the Inglenook on the left (pic #3).

Tim