trailrider
Well-Known Member
Thanks! Mine works well, after I replaced the cracked Chinese gears with Atheran ones.I know the difference, and still think yours looks great.
Thanks! Mine works well, after I replaced the cracked Chinese gears with Atheran ones.I know the difference, and still think yours looks great.
I'd be totally satisfied with a result like this. Nice job. What manufacturer E6 donor shell? Where did you get the corrugated styrene? Which silver paint did you use? Brand & Part # for decal set used? I'm excited. I apologize for peppering you with questions. Great to see a nice finished result for a project I'm about to undertake. ThanksI used an E6 and added thin corrugated sheet styrene to produce a Burlington E5. The windows are not quite right, but I didn't feel like going that far, and there are very few people (none who will visit my layout) who would know the difference. View attachment 126785View attachment 126786View attachment 126785View attachment 126786
Very Nice!
The basic unit is a Life-Like or Proto2000 E6A, DCC & sound, with corregated styrene, the thinnest available, either .015" or .030". (I can't recall, but looking up on Google, I think Plastruct has it, but maybe Evergreen, at my then LHS. Not sure if Walthers might have it. I used Scalecoat Silver, sprayed from a rattle can, but I would guess there are other brands that would do. As to the decals, I checked Microscale's website and they don't list it anymore, but #87-581 can be found on e-bay. I'd grab a set. Sorry not to be more specific, but since I kitbashed my E5A and a E7B some stuff, especially paints are no longer available. If you find a Life-Like or any of the Chinese-made pieces, I'd replace the gears with either Athearn or NWSL. Saves a lot of aggravation, especially if the engine derails and shorts out the DCC! BTW, these models will take 18" radius curves. The Burlington E5's, IIRC, lasted into the early '60's, mostly on the C&S/FW&D runs from Denver South. Last I heard, the last remaining one is still running at the Illinois Railroad Museum! Good luck with your project!I'd be totally satisfied with a result like this. Nice job. What manufacturer E6 donor shell? Where did you get the corrugated styrene? Which silver paint did you use? Brand & Part # for decal set used? I'm excited. I apologize for peppering you with questions. Great to see a nice finished result for a project I'm about to undertake. Thanks
Update: That is a Life-Like "Made in China". I think I used a Union Pacific, as the yellow was easiest to cover with the silver paint.The basic unit is a Life-Like or Proto2000 E6A, DCC & sound, with corregated styrene, the thinnest available, either .015" or .030". (I can't recall, but looking up on Google, I think Plastruct has it, but maybe Evergreen, at my then LHS. Not sure if Walthers might have it. I used Scalecoat Silver, sprayed from a rattle can, but I would guess there are other brands that would do. As to the decals, I checked Microscale's website and they don't list it anymore, but #87-581 can be found on e-bay. I'd grab a set. Sorry not to be more specific, but since I kitbashed my E5A and a E7B some stuff, especially paints are no longer available. If you find a Life-Like or any of the Chinese-made pieces, I'd replace the gears with either Athearn or NWSL. Saves a lot of aggravation, especially if the engine derails and shorts out the DCC! BTW, these models will take 18" radius curves. The Burlington E5's, IIRC, lasted into the early '60's, mostly on the C&S/FW&D runs from Denver South. Last I heard, the last remaining one is still running at the Illinois Railroad Museum! Good luck with your project!
Stay well and safe!