Athearn blue box


L

Lester Perry

Member
I installed a digitrax decoder in Athearn blue box. Using the kit they have I don't have the papers in front of me, I think it is AT something. I did it exactly as the directions said. It barely moves. This locomotive runs great in DC. It has been fine tuned in the gears etc. Is this a normal problem?
 
DH123AT?

First, make sure that theres no binding in the gears, and that they are lubed. With the motor, make sure that the brushes and contacts are clean. Once you've checked all of that, do the following:

Crank up the value in CV 2 until it starts moving at speed step 1. On DC, track voltage typically maxes out at 12 volts. On DCC, track voltage can get up to 14-15 volts. More voltage = more speed.
 
Like Diburning has said you probably need to change the CV value to get the engine moving.

I've used digitrax decoders with Athearn blue box and usually need to set the Start Value (CV2) anywhere from 3-6 depending on the engine. Also you might want to set the value of CV5 (Maximum Voltage) to 255. I believe the digitrax decoders come with most of the CV's set to 0 as default. This should get you going if the decoder is working correctly. Once you get it running then you can adjust the values up or down to get the desired speeds out of your engine.

There are currently 2 decoders in production that have the Athearn clips at the end. The DH123AT and the DH163AT, both are pretty much the same except the 163 supports more functions.

Here's much more info on them:
Digitrax Documents

Just scroll down till you find your decoder. Older decoders are listed as well. Hope you get it figured out.
 
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IIRC, those kits have you removing and replacing the bottom motor clip. It's possible you've got something in the motor in a bind. Try removing the driveshafts from either end of the motor, and make sure it spins freely without any power or other load. Then check to see how it runs without being connected to the rest of the drivetrain. If everything works good, hook one driveshaft up, check how the motor runs, then hook the other up.
 
Also, depending on the model, it may be possible to install the motor back in backwards. If that happens, the flywheel will bind on the frame.

Lightstorm said:
Like Diburning has said you probably need to change the CV value to get the engine moving.

I've used digitrax decoders with Athearn blue box and usually need to set the Start Value (CV2) anywhere from 3-6 depending on the engine. Also you might want to set the value of CV5 (Maximum Voltage) to 255. I believe the digitrax decoders come with most of the CV's set to 0 as default. This should get you going if the decoder is working correctly. Once you get it running then you can adjust the values up or down to get the desired speeds out of your engine.

There are currently 2 decoders in production that have the Athearn clips at the end. The DH123AT and the DH163AT, both are pretty much the same except the 163 supports more functions.

Here's much more info on them:
Digitrax Documents

Just scroll down till you find your decoder. Older decoders are listed as well. Hope you get it figured out.
Click to expand...

Digitrax decoders come with CV 5 set at 255 from the factory. Athearn motors typically need a value between 35 and 70 in CV 2 to start crawling at speed step 1

Here's another guess... Since the DHAT harness is all friction fitted, maybe theres a corroded/bad connection somewhere that needs cleaning?
 
What happened? Did you smoke it? Digitrax has a warranty, but not for user-caused damage. The cost to repair/replace is $25, which is more than getting a new one.

If the decoder is damaged/smoked, send it to NCE with $12 and NCE will send you an equivalent or better of their own decoders. (NCE's most "basic" decoder is a 4-function so if you send them a 2-function, they'll still send you a 4-function). For $12, it beats buying a new decoder. However, if you're in a hurry, I'd recommend that you buy a new decoder because NCE can take a month more or to send you a new decoder.
 
Well....I reset the decoder by going to CV8 and entering 8. It ran great for about 2 feet. At that time it stopped.After trying everything I could think of ,I removed the decoder and plugged it into a tester. It wouldn't make any lights come on. As far as NCE goes I will give it a try
 
Did you isolate the motor from the frame? You're supposed to cover the area where the bottom clip on the motor touches the frame. If the clip or the wire touches the frame, your decoder may be toast.
 
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