Adhesives for acetate


T

Toyguy

Member
I'm building a Micro-Trains Z-scale warehouse/freight building and it comes with a small sheet of acetate for the window glazing. What's the best choice of adhesive for securing that to the inside of the doors and windows?

This is my first non-plastic building and my first of any kind in Z-scale. I'm pretty happy with how it's turning out, except for the loading dock. In future buildings I will try some sort of wash rather than paint. It has a suitably worn and rugged look, but the paint hid too much of the laser etched detailing I think.

I still need to add the main doors, handrails and the supporting members for the dock but I decided to get the roof material applied first as those other details are pretty fragile. I'm debating whether to use the roof paper Micro-Trains provided or try to come up with something else. Taking the photo I also noticed a few more white edge spots that need touching up.

DSC00683.jpg


It looks a lot scruffier zoomed in like it is in the above shot than it does at a more normal viewing distance on the layout. The track is still taped to protect it from any scenery materials.

DSC00685.jpg


Thanks in advance for the advice.
 
I use the same stuff, the gs hypo cement. It's not bad, but not terribly strong either. I imagine rubber cement would do the trick as well.

The building looks good. For the deck, try wetsanding with really fine paper. It'll sand some of the paint off of the top, but leave it in the laser-etched bits. Go with the grain and it might even add some texture.

And yeah, just when you think you're done, you take a picture and whoa...
 
Try Pledge with Future Finish floor wax. It is not a wax but clear gloss acrylic and is compatible with Polly Scale and craft store acrylic paints. If you get a smudge on the visible part of the window let it dry. Set the building so that the window is flat then put a drop or 2 of Pledge on the window and let it self level.

Be sure that you get the right Pledge. Pledge with Future Finish is the current name of Future Floor Wax and is very popular with car and airplane modelers.

Pledge also works as a gloss coat for decalling.
 
IowaFarmBoy said:
Be sure that you get the right Pledge. Pledge with Future Finish is the current name of Future Floor Wax and is very popular with car and airplane modelers.

Pledge also works as a gloss coat for decalling.
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+1 It really is worth a try - It "self levels" (so you can even brush it on) and for reasons that are beyond me actually makes the windows (or whatever) appear thinner and "clearer". The car guys sometimes even add a little food dye to get tinted windows - Good stuff!

Cheers,
Ian
 
So I use the floor wax as a glue, then potentially put some on the outer surface of the window to self level?
 
Toyguy said:
So I use the floor wax as a glue, then potentially put some on the outer surface of the window to self level?
Click to expand...

As always, my 02c; No!

I have read about using it as glue, and in your tiny size it may work, but I wouldn't. What the Future does is provide a super smooth surface that appears "clearer" than without. Lifted from a model car tutorial:

Pour your future into a bowl big enough to dip at least one windshield. Brushing it one will not work here, as you will be left with an uneven looking coat. Allow a few moments for the air to settle out of the Future, then start to dip your piece. Slowly dip the piece into the liquid, leave it there for at least 10 seconds, then pull it back out at an angle very slowly. Now place one edge against a paper towel for at least 20 seconds. This allows extra Future to run off the piece and gives a much more even coat. Now allow the piece to dry, preferably in a sealed container to keep dust off of it.
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The key is no bubbles - Slip the window into the bath slowly, then remove it slowly so as to not pick up any bubbles. Set the edge of the wet piece onto a paper towel and the excess will wick away.

Once it's dry use a tiny amount of the GS-hypo to glue it into position. The Future is an extra step, but it really improves the look IMHO.

Cheers,
Ian
PS - Here's the link to the tutorial: http://www.briansmodelcars.com/tutorials/tutorial/14
 
How long does it need to cure before handling?

BTW: I read on the internet that Woodland Scenics Realistic Water is nothing more than repackaged floor wax with a 400% mark up. That stuff takes a whole day for a thin coat.
 
Charles Smiley said:
How long does it need to cure before handling?
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"Not very long"...... I think I left the parts under a bowl overnight, but am pretty sure they're actually safe to handle after an hour or so (?)

I dunno if you're following my "Painting a GE44 tonner" thread, but I'll update that with some details as I'm gonna Future the windows in that at some point.... [I still can't spray, and Xtrackcad has beaten me away from layout design again. :(]

BTW: I read on the internet that Woodland Scenics Realistic Water is nothing more than repackaged floor wax with a 400% mark up. That stuff takes a whole day for a thin coat.
Click to expand...

Interesting - Thanks. I don't know if that's what it is though - I've never used it, but the key with Future is to keep it thin - I don't know how you "build up" the WS water?

Cheers,
Ian
 
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