CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
Just a teaser, the next set of cars to be done will be the grain cars. Some got the latches painted some didn't. Some will get a bit more in the weathering, and some will get grain spillage on the top.
Weathering Rolling Stock, a Continous thread
- Thread starter TLOC
- Start date
CambriaArea51
Well-Known Member
A few cars that got some upgrades, some will be different they'll come later. These got the hinges painted then dulled down the coupler area got the step painted and dulled and the brake chain got rust color.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Ver nice work on the weathering, and that building backdrop looks familiar too.A few rust buckets among the many pieces of rolling stock I have weathered.View attachment 180827View attachment 180828View attachment 180829View attachment 180830
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Here’s a 2 bay CNW covered hopper from Athearn’s RTR series that the weathering was started this morning. It was inspected, cleaned and clear Matt finished a few weeks ago. No fading…
Pan Pastels so far!
Then the truck side frames
Done with Vallejo Panzer Aces #301 light rust and #302 dark rust dabbed on
The bottom of the car and the end panels will be air brushed
There are 3 more 2-bay hoppers for the same commission that should be completed in the next day or so, these are from Intermountain
Pan Pastels so far!
Then the truck side frames
Done with Vallejo Panzer Aces #301 light rust and #302 dark rust dabbed on
The bottom of the car and the end panels will be air brushed
There are 3 more 2-bay hoppers for the same commission that should be completed in the next day or so, these are from Intermountain
TLOC
Well-Known Member
I see ThomasJ49 has a end of the line thread for caboose.
I did my 1st ever plastic caboose before I left for golf about 12 days ago
As per my procedures I inspect, clean and add a clear matte finish the car. In this case I then went with the Pan Pastels on the caboose. After a few colors added and blended I clear coat again. This car has quite a few layers of Pan Pastels blended together with most being with brushes but there was some sponge work
Used these pan pastels that along with a colorless blender are my favorites
Wheel faces and truck frames were weathered with Vallejo Panzer Aces #302 dark rust
I did my 1st ever plastic caboose before I left for golf about 12 days ago
As per my procedures I inspect, clean and add a clear matte finish the car. In this case I then went with the Pan Pastels on the caboose. After a few colors added and blended I clear coat again. This car has quite a few layers of Pan Pastels blended together with most being with brushes but there was some sponge work
Used these pan pastels that along with a colorless blender are my favorites
Wheel faces and truck frames were weathered with Vallejo Panzer Aces #302 dark rust
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Here’s a bulkhead flat car from Atlas that is supposed to be just dirtied. Nothing rust bucket about this one and the client wanted to read most of the lettering on the car. Sent these pictures off on Saturday but he texted he’d let me know on Tuesday if he approves or not. Seems he was in Vegas going to watch some game on Sunday.
The normal, inspect, clean and a clear coat to start the process. Then a fade. Tamiya white thinned 20% paint to 80% Isopropyl Alcohol using the 91% concentration. My pharmacist found a case of 91% for me and ordered it for me. I prefer 99% but that has been difficult to find and what I do have I’m saving if I need to strip any paints.
After the fade was done to my satisfaction I hit it again with a clear matte finish. I then sprayed a Tamiya brown basically as a light mist to represent a light grime all over the car, incuding the bulkheads and underbody. The deck is applications of Pan Pastels red iron oxide extra dark and raw Umber extra dark applied with a sponge. A spray of 100% Tamiya xf86 flat clear sealed the Pan Pastels.
I then went with Vallejo Air burnt umber and touched every stake pocket with a brush. That was thinned 80% paint 20% tap water
The client did not want any additional kick up spray on the bulkheads
Finally the whole car was sprayed with another application of Tamiya’s xf86 flat clear but thinned 50/50 with Tamiya thinner x20A
The trucks and wheel faces were weathered with Vallejo Panzer Aces light 301 rust and dark 302 rust dabbed on with a brush. Because this car does go through a hump yard on the client’s layout the wheel rims were cleaned off.
your thoughts are welcome
The normal, inspect, clean and a clear coat to start the process. Then a fade. Tamiya white thinned 20% paint to 80% Isopropyl Alcohol using the 91% concentration. My pharmacist found a case of 91% for me and ordered it for me. I prefer 99% but that has been difficult to find and what I do have I’m saving if I need to strip any paints.
After the fade was done to my satisfaction I hit it again with a clear matte finish. I then sprayed a Tamiya brown basically as a light mist to represent a light grime all over the car, incuding the bulkheads and underbody. The deck is applications of Pan Pastels red iron oxide extra dark and raw Umber extra dark applied with a sponge. A spray of 100% Tamiya xf86 flat clear sealed the Pan Pastels.
I then went with Vallejo Air burnt umber and touched every stake pocket with a brush. That was thinned 80% paint 20% tap water
The client did not want any additional kick up spray on the bulkheads
Finally the whole car was sprayed with another application of Tamiya’s xf86 flat clear but thinned 50/50 with Tamiya thinner x20A
The trucks and wheel faces were weathered with Vallejo Panzer Aces light 301 rust and dark 302 rust dabbed on with a brush. Because this car does go through a hump yard on the client’s layout the wheel rims were cleaned off.
your thoughts are welcome
logandsawman
Well-Known Member
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Thanks Dave
TLOC
Well-Known Member
NiceI just had to do one of these, needed another option than regular freight rolling stock.
That's beautiful! Also, now I think I know who both of "the two Toms" @Smudge617 was referring toI just had to do one of these, needed another option than regular freight rolling stock.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Blast, ok, the THREE Toms, this is getting confusing nowThat's beautiful! Also, now I think I know who both of "the two Toms" @Smudge617 was referring to
Sorry, ChrisBlast, ok, the THREE Toms, this is getting confusing now
. I'm done making assumptions
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
Very nice job, you'll also have to show us through your process next time so us lesser mortals can learn.I just had to do one of these, needed another option than regular freight rolling stock.
I second that....and I'm the least of the lesser mortalsVery nice job, you'll also have to show us through your process next time so us lesser mortals can learn.
Smudge617
Well-Known Member
If you go back to the start TomO's weathering thread he's kindly explained his process and how he gets various weathering effects, I copied and printed them all out and they sit next to my paint box so I have a readily available "bible" to work from.I second that....and I'm the least of the lesser mortals
And there is no reason you can't do this, if this idiot (me) can get half-decent results no reason you can't do the same, probably far better.
I think I might have mentioned something when I first started posting here recently. The easiest and really good looking weathering job is with a wash of either of two oil artists tube type paints , just a small amount pressed in a small bottle like the kind you would buy your normal modeling paint in or if you don't have an empty bottle the the size of a whiskey glass would do. Fill the rest of the way with Mineral Spirits and you have your wash. Brush it on and immediately brush it back off. You won't remove all the wash because the oil will set in no matter what. From there you can determine if you need to do it again or not. The wash will also settle in crevices and give a nice detailed look. Anyway that's the easiest way, from there it's all about using an airbrush.Very nice job, you'll also have to show us through your process next time so us lesser mortals can learn.
TLOC
Well-Known Member
Yes thanks for talking about the oil wash method. Lots of different ways that we all weather.I think I might have mentioned something when I first started posting here recently. The easiest and really good looking weathering job is with a wash of either of two oil artists tube type paints , just a small amount pressed in a small bottle like the kind you would buy your normal modeling paint in or if you don't have an empty bottle the the size of a whiskey glass would do. Fill the rest of the way with Mineral Spirits and you have your wash. Brush it on and immediately brush it back off. You won't remove all the wash because the oil will set in no matter what. From there you can determine if you need to do it again or not. The wash will also settle in crevices and give a nice detailed look. Anyway that's the easiest way, from there it's all about using an airbrush.
The original idea with this thread was to show our models, describe the way and the products used to weathered them and discuss them. Constructive criticism is #1 on this thread and very much encouraged. We don’t mind if you don’t like something just tell us why and how to correct it.
I think that philosophy has held up well.
The thing about weathering methods is if you personally don’t like the effect you created it is fairly easy to remove it and start over. The other thing is we all evolve, many of my methods have changed from ideas and discussions here on this Continuous weathering thread (TomO) and the one on CambriaArea51’s (Tom) Locomotive thread . Alan’s (espeefan) thread on passenger cars has been very helpful with ideas and I know has helped me fix some decal issues. Alan is an airbrush guru.
But we need involved readers. Show your weathered models and discuss them as you did with oil washes. Thanks for being here…
Jaz avalley
Station cat
Rolling stock, not so much any more…
reference
bought model obviously used the reference photo too
i found it by accident
some colour and I want a view through the windows so drew sone ‘distant’ bushes
I used warhammer paints at the dirty colours work
glue added
texture added
not quite on topic, but in the ballpark if you squint hard
in a vw graveyard
added to a safari area the train passes
…strolls off check over shoulder in case Tom‘s hand appears and slaps me ….nope all clear whistles off key…..
reference
bought model obviously used the reference photo too
i found it by accident
some colour and I want a view through the windows so drew sone ‘distant’ bushes
I used warhammer paints at the dirty colours work
glue added
texture added
not quite on topic, but in the ballpark if you squint hard
in a vw graveyard
added to a safari area the train passes
…strolls off check over shoulder in case Tom‘s hand appears and slaps me
….nope all clear whistles off key…..