Building the Canyon Diablo Bridge


Me neither, Mark, but with those "stick-on" rivets ---
Maybe the D&H should "hit it" with a coat of Dullcoat first before the paint?
I would certainly hate to see those rivets start sliding around!
 
Mark is correct about not having any problems with Floquil on plastic. I custom paunted my fleet of Alco locomotives with it as well as scores of Blue Box freight cars. The reason I went to Tru Color is because Floquil is no longer made. There is a possibility of finding some, but it may be difficult.
 
I applied that Microsoft solution after all the rivets were in place. If I understood it correctly, the solution softens the decal so it grips the plastic better. I could be wrong though.
Just got home from Timonium. Found a vendor who supplies the Tru Color Grimy Black. He didn't have all four bottles that I needed so he'll mail them next week.
 
That is exactly what the decal setting solution does. I have been using Solvaset. Here is a photo of one of my custom painted blue box kits. It was black painted with Flowuil. You can see where the decal has been softened and drawn down over the rivets. A coat of dull coat was applied after the decals were applied and then another coat of dull coat after the weathering was done.

IMAG0259.jpg


You might consider a light coat of dullcoat on the bridge before painting. If you have any of the rivet details left, you might apply them to a scrap piece of plastic and use that scrap as a test strip before painting.

Good luck. I am really anticipating seeing that bridge installed on your layout.
 
I haven't heard of Floquil melting plastic, but Scalecoat I would melt plastic if brushed on. If airbrushed on, there was generally no problem because the solvent would dry before damaging the plastic. If brushed on, the solvents would have time to damage the plastic. Scalecoat II was safe for plastics. The formulation for the two was different.
 
It is a work of art! It looks like it was fun project! Does it have the tracks on top?
 
D&J RailRoad, Can I ask why you would use Flquil or Scaleoat Solvent based paints on this bridge, when such wonderful Acrylic paints in a rainbow of colors are available to do the job? Especially since Floquil paints are no longer available. I would have no problem using solvent based paints, if that is your choice,; however, since Testors took both Floquil and Polly Scale Acrylic paints off the market market (I feel a real mistake on Testor's part) why bother?
 
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There are lots of rumors that Floquil causes kidney problems. I don't know if they're true or not, but why take a chance when there are other paints available that don't have that stigma?
I went with Tru Color because I have seen paint jobs done with that brand and I'm pleased with the results.
Now I just have to get a compressor that doesn't spit water with the air and I'll start the painting process.
 
FYI: - I purchased my Badger air compressor from Michael's when they had a 40% off Coupon in the newspaper which reduced the cost of an expensive piece of equipment.

A barrier coat on your project will prevent the Floquil from attacking plastic models when applied after the barrier coat dries.

Greg
 
D&J RailRoad said:
There are lots of rumors that Floquil causes kidney problems. I don't know if they're true or not, but why take a chance when there are other paints available that don't have that stigma?
I went with Tru Color because I have seen paint jobs done with that brand and I'm pleased with the results.
Now I just have to get a compressor that doesn't spit water with the air and I'll start the painting process.
Click to expand...

One of the reasons some of the older paints were discontinued was because they could be dangerous if proper precautions weren't taken. I know that Floquil used Xylene as a base. Not very good for you.

I was looking for a company that offered Northern Pacific Green colors for the North Coast Limited. I called them direct and spoke to someone there who was quite helpful. I was concerned about the color match and didn't find the colors I wanted on their web site. They did have the colors and they were right on. I had an Athearn F-7 painted in the Lowey paint scheme which I knew was correct. I also had a few Walthers passenger cars which were right on and a perfect match for the F-7. The Tru Colors were a perfect match. I also liked that it could be used right out of the bottle for an air brush. Regular paint thinner did not completely clean the air brush the way I preferred. Using the Tru Color thinner did the job. You should be quite satisfied with it.

Can't wait to see the painted bridge.
 
I'm not sure. The first time I used it was with a brush. It seemed to clean up with regular thinner, but when cleaning the air brush, it didn't clean completely. I had some Tru Color thinner on hand and used that. You might experiment and see what works. Let me know.
 
I installed the window treatments today to cut down the UV rays that might damage the bridge material over time. Pretty simple application.
The TC Grimy Black paint arrived today. Don't think I'll have time to mess with that today or tomorrow. Tomorrow is football and cigars at the mancave a couple counties away.
I found an air compressor in the MicroMart pages. Has the regulator and water separator all built in. I just didn't want to mess around with trying to jury rig those items onto the air compressor I have now. It's pretty old and I'm sure there would have to be many adapters to make it work.
Anyway, the compressor arrived yesterday I think or the day before.
 
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