Peco Turnouts


Kevin,

Not sure but I think what's on second if that's any help :)

And Mark (akaNP2626)

Just got a reply from Hattons and they do have code 83 in stock and peco can get any track you want.
 
The SL-E95 I did mention was actually an SL-95 turnout.
The "SL" means it is from their "Streamline" line of track. The number with an "E" means it has an electrofog, while the plain number is an insulfrog type. There is no difference in the geometry.
 
I just looked at the package the turnout came in and I've found I've been confused all along. What I bought was a Peco SL-E95 Code 100, right hand, Electrofrog turnout. Sorry for the confusion and I hope I have it right this time!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I didn't wire up the frog as it would require Peco's switch machine to do so.
 
Mark,

Might be wrong here but I don't recall needing the switch machine to power the frog on the turnout. Wiring the frog ensures a proper flow of power. It isn't needed but is a "safety measure" if you like.

As said, I might be wrong or they may have changed the way the turn out is wired.
 
Might be wrong here but I don't recall needing the switch machine to power the frog on the turnout. Wiring the frog ensures a proper flow of power. It isn't needed but is a "safety measure" if you like.
You are correct. A Peco electrofrog's frog (if that makes any English sense) is by default powered from the points. No additional wiring is needed.

Some modelers remove the point spring so they can drive it with a tortoise motor and in that case, run another feeder to the frog from the contacts on the tortoise motor.
I take the alternate route and replace the tortoise drive wire with a heavier wire so it can throw the turnout despite the points springs.
Other modelers just over engineer them by running an additional wire to the point so they are not dependent on the point rail contact with the stock rails for power.
 
The instruction on the Peco package does not show any other way of switching the polarity of the frog, without using their switch machine. If there is a way, I am unaware of it. If the points do the switching, then why have a diagram on the back of the package showing wires going from the switch machine to the frog?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The instruction on the Peco package does not show any other way of switching the polarity of the frog, without using their switch machine. If there is a way, I am unaware of it. If the points do the switching, then why have a diagram on the back of the package showing wires going from the switch machine to the frog?
Don't know. I've never used Peco switch machines. I'm in the no motor (manual) or stall motor camp for changing turnouts. Tortoise work great for this. Possibly because they are pushing their own product line?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The instruction on the Peco package does not show any other way of switching the polarity of the frog, without using their switch machine. If there is a way, I am unaware of it. If the points do the switching, then why have a diagram on the back of the package showing wires going from the switch machine to the frog?

The electrical connection between the point rail and the stock rail may not be 100% reliable. So the option exists to power the frog using another device to switch the power.

Some turnout motors/switch machines have contacts for this purpose. I use Tortoise devices on my layout and I use the contacts they provide to switch power.

There are also electronic devices called "frog juicers" which control power to the frog if you desire a solution with "no moving parts".

Frederick
 
Peco may "assume" that people who use the electrofrog (a bit more advanced) than insulfrogs also use switch machines. If that is even close then they probably include the wiring for a switch machine as a courtesy.
 
Its my understanding the folks who use slow motion Tortoise machines need to remove the spring that comes in the stock Peco turnouts...cross purpose action.

One thing I do NOT like about Tortoise is the considerable depth they extend under the layout subroadbed and/or shelf layout.
 
Peco may "assume" that people who use the electrofrog (a bit more advanced) than insulfrogs also use switch machines. If that is even close then they probably include the wiring for a switch machine as a courtesy.

I have checked to see if I have power at the frog, when my system is powered up. I have an electrical test truck with contacts to the wheels that has a light that lights up if there is power to the track and the light stayed on the whole way through the turnout through both routes. So you guys are right, the electrofrog needs no special wiring to provide power to the frog. There, that question is answered!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have checked to see if I have power at the frog, when my system is powered up. I have an electrical test truck with contacts to the wheels that has a light that lights up if there is power and the light stayed on the whole way through the turnout through both routes. So you guys are right, the electrofrog needs no special wiring to provide power at the frog.

Correct - as long as you are OK with using the points to control the power to the frog.

If you chose to power the frog with another device (switch machine contacts, frog juicer, etc) you can put jumper wires on the underside of the turnout and provide constant power to the closure rails and point rails without relying on the contact between the point rails and the stock rails.

Frederick
 
Truth be told I have no plans to change to Peco turnouts. I wanted to replace one Atlas Snap Switch and thought trying out a Peco switch would be interesting. It was and I am done. The rest of the layout with all of it's Atlas Custom Line turnouts is working great, so I am good! Thanks to everyone for your help and insite!!
 
Its my understanding the folks who use slow motion Tortoise machines need to remove the spring that comes in the stock Peco turnouts...cross purpose action.
Not necessarily "need to", I have used Peco turnouts with Tortoise motors for years (maybe decades) and do not remove the springs. I do upgrade the throw wire on the Tortoise to ones that are much more stout.
 



Back
Top