Various

[GCRailways]

Hello,
I am relatively new to 3-rail O gauge railroading (I also am involved with HO scale), and have a few questions about my equipment:

1. The springs on the coupler pivots of my K-Line GP38 are really stiff, enough to derail a car when backing through a curve (O-36 FasTrack and regular O-31), and even some of the smaller cars when running forward. Is there any way to fix this?

2. How do I reach the axle bearings on the geared side of the wheelsets of the above engine to oil them?

3. I have noticed that the wheels of brand new Lionel rolling stock tend to be fairly grimey. I've tried both Lionel and Life-Like track cleaner, which have got a lot of it off, but the wheels still seem slightly sticky. What is the best way to clean them off?

4. Does track cleaner ever go bad? My Lionel maintenance stuff came with the Pennsylvania Flyer Freight Expansion Pack, and the cleaner has a somewhat foul odor to it. The year on the cars and packaging is 2006.

Any response will be recieved with much gratitude.

Thanks,
Aaron

[Irongrave]

can't help on the first 2 but

3, try some rubbing alcohol on a rag and wipe down the wheel sets that should get a lot of the grime off

4, with out seeing what its made if not sure but again you can use rubbing alcohol to clean the rails.

[justashes]

sweet deal

[Rail-Uke]

Hi Aaron,

I may be able to help with some of your questions

1. The springs on the coupler pivots of my K-Line GP38 are really stiff, enough to derail a car when backing through a curve (O-36 FasTrack and regular O-31), and even some of the smaller cars when running forward. Is there any way to fix this?

O-36 track is the minimum radius for an engine like this. One might be able to squeak by with O-31 but that's getting pretty tight. Minimum radius means exactly that.... minimum ie. you're pushing the limits of the engine and cars tolerances. Ideally it would be better to switch to a larger curve but if O-36 is the max you can go then one has to choose engines and cars that can accomodate a tighter curve. This can limit you in your equipment choices.

Your engine should be OK on O-36 but one thing to consider also is the type of car that is derailing. Does it have body mounted couplers? Being 3-rail, probably not but that would cause a problem on O-36. Is it a true O scale car and how long is it. Running cars that are true scale or Scale O and longer than 40 scale feet is pushing the limits of O-36. The wheels turn in so tight that they rub the frame and couplers can bind causing derailment especially backing on curves. This will happen even if the couplers are truck mounted. Even though O-36 is larger and much better than O-27 the larger 36" curves are still primarily for O-27 toy train cars and equipment and the mid scale stuff; what they are calling now as traditional scale. They are all use O gauge track but bodies are smaller than true U.S. O scale, ie. 1:48 ratio. Unless you can go to a larger curve your pretty much going to be limited to four axle diesels no longer than 17", small steamers and switchers. Cars would be limited to the type suitable for O-27 and O-31 only. All engines and cars must have traditional Lionel toy train type truck mounted couplers that can turn in sharply without binding. Car underbodies have to be devoid of most if not all details so the trucks can turn sharp.

3. I have noticed that the wheels of brand new Lionel rolling stock tend to be fairly grimey. I've tried both Lionel and Life-Like track cleaner, which have got a lot of it off, but the wheels still seem slightly sticky. What is the best way to clean them off?

Remove the wheel sets and use paint thinner to get the gunk off then follow up with alcohol. Paint thinner will really get the gunk off. Don't try it with the wheels on the car. Paint thinner will ruin plastic and obviously nice paint jobs. Some modelers I talked to use a fine buffing wheel and dremmel tool as well but I've never felt the neccesity to use that.

4. Does track cleaner ever go bad? My Lionel maintenance stuff came with the Pennsylvania Flyer Freight Expansion Pack, and the cleaner has a somewhat foul odor to it. The year on the cars and packaging is 2006.

I have never known track cleaner to go bad or even smell as I had some for 17 years and it never changed but I no longer use liquids or track erasers on the rails. Go down to a hardware store or Home Depot and buy some Scotch-Brite pads. Get the fine pads only not the course BBQ grill scrubbing type. Scotch-Brite has worked great for me and are quick, easy and cleaner to use. They keep the rail tops shiny and free from oxidation and gunk.

Hope I could help,

Jim

[GCRailways]

Hello,

First, I greatly apologize for taking so long to get back; I completely forgot about this account .

The rolling stock I use is what came with my Lionel starter set and expansion pack, plus a Polar Express baggage car. The Geep has no problem negotiating the 31- and 36-inch curves with this car because the couplers pivot on the trucks; all of the freight stock's couplers are cast in to the trucks. I want to say it's a scale-sized engine, as it towers above all the other equipment and is more detailed. The couplers and trucks can pivot far enough to negotiate these curves without any interference; the issue is the excessive strength in the coupler centering springs. They also hold the uncoupling tabs in place, and are strong enough to require some effort just to close the knuckles! I am thinking about fabricating new ones, as I don't want to trim the springs it came with.

Minimum radius is the first thing I take into consideration when looking at equipment I would like to get. The engine in question was a gift long before I acquired the other equipment. I purchased a few 31-inch curve sections specifically to check minimum radius, and later to display the engine until I could get a starter set.

Thanks for the insight,

Aaron