Designing first layout, lots of questions!

[Iron Horseman]

Originally Posted by rdemattio91

so I need to purchase a switch machine. How hard is it to install these machines?

If you purchase the standard Atlas track side switch machines, it is very easy. There are notches on the ties such that the switch motor clips into. Basically one "threads" the switch motor actuator rod into the points bar, align the closest tab, then angle the motor back to be parallel with the track and snaps into another notch. Takes all of about 10 seconds.

On the other hand if the idea is to us slow motion stall motors under the layout there is drilling, mounting, adjusting, and possibly linkage to deal with.

[railfan]

Originally Posted by rdemattio91

so I need to purchase a switch machine. How hard is it to install these machines?

If you have plenty of time and money, you can have fancy remote motor operated turnouts.

If you want to get going quicker and cheaper.....you can use the affordable, popular, and easy to install, caboose industries ground throws. Then maybe work on the remote ones......one or two at a time to figure out what works best for you. Ground throws look like this. They cost three bucks each or less in N scale. They connect directly to atlas custom line turnouts.....or most normal turnouts (not for atlas snap switches). I use the ones with the built-in spring.



Mike

[rdemattio91]

Originally Posted by railfan

If you have plenty of time and money, you can have fancy remote motor operated turnouts.

If you want to get going quicker and cheaper.....you can use the affordable, popular, and easy to install, caboose industries ground throws. Then maybe work on the remote ones......one or two at a time to figure out what works best for you. Ground throws look like this. They cost three bucks each or less in N scale. They connect directly to atlas custom line turnouts.....or most normal turnouts (not for atlas snap switches). I use the ones with the built-in spring.



Mike

Will the trains run over those well tho? I always figured u get what u pay for

[rdemattio91]

Well guys here is my design with a double main. I increased the 2 sides to 24 inches which wont be a problem because I am 6'4". I made an elevation on the bottom right, I'm not sure if the clearence is good enough. I have 2 1/2 inches of elevation for the top rails, and 1 inch of decline for the under rail. Is that sufficient? Also, i used the right side for a staging yard, but I kinda want to put in a coal mine or something because I love seeing coal trains and I have alot of coal cars. But then I wont have a staging yard enless I put it on the left side, but I think that will be too much track if I pile more on the left side. Opinions?



Here is the original hog so you can see my changes



P.S Each square equals 1 foot

[joed2323]

Ground throws attach to the outside of the turnouts. Trains dont actually runover the ground throw. If you go with caboose ground throws just get the atlas custom turnouts... i also use the ground throws as well
To me the ground throws feel more like the real thing, having to manually switch each turnout plus its cheap and easy to use.

[choops]

layout Looks great

3 1/2" is the minimum. You may want to go 4". I would put the steeper grade on the branch line.

Have you considered making the bench work 18" deep on all sides. 12" may be too narrow and 24" is about the max depth that I would use.

May want to add a staging track or two.

Steve

[cuyama]

Originally Posted by choops

Have you considered making the bench work 18" deep on all sides.

It's also worth considering varying the benchwork depth in places for access or scenery. You might also want to let the branch "run" farther before crossing over or under to ease the grades.

There's nothing magical about the HOG -- "donut" style layouts have been around since the beginning of the hobby. The gimmick of cutting the HOG all from one sheet of plywood creates some limitations (such as the 1 foot benchwork width everywhere) that aren't necessary.

The HOG is certainly better than an HO "sacred sheet" 4X8 monolith, but there are many ways to take advantage of the donut idea that aren't explored in the HOG -- such as adding staging, including backdrops to create different "inside" and "outside" scenes (if in a larger room), etc.

Best of luck with your layout.

[rdemattio91]

Originally Posted by joed2323

Ground throws attach to the outside of the turnouts. Trains dont actually runover the ground throw. If you go with caboose ground throws just get the atlas custom turnouts... i also use the ground throws as well
To me the ground throws feel more like the real thing, having to manually switch each turnout plus its cheap and easy to use.

I guess I didnt type that the right way, but I ment like de-railing just due to the fact that it is a cheaper turnout, not the fact that it will literally run over the ground throw.

[joed2323]

Atlas mark custom turnouts are not junk, they dont derail any more or any less then other brands. A caboose ground throw or switch machine or remote turnout is basically the same thing except you have to switch the turnout manually vs electronically if that makes anymore sense.

[rdemattio91]

Originally Posted by joed2323

Atlas mark custom turnouts are not junk, they dont derail any more or any less then other brands. A caboose ground throw or switch machine or remote turnout is basically the same thing except you have to switch the turnout manually vs electronically if that makes anymore sense.

I think I get it now. THe caboose ground throws are just that- a ground throw. There is no track associated with it, it is just a ground throw that I could hook to my custom line turnout so that I can manually switch the track, correct?