Designing first layout, lots of questions!

[rdemattio91]

Hey guys im trying to design the HOG on anyrail, and I have some questions about turn outs. I wanna put in remote turn outs, but it does not have the number turnout next to remote turn outs (EX. #4,#6,#8) the only turnouts that have the # next to them are "custom" turnouts. Is there a way to know what number turnout I am using if it does not post the number? Also, whats the min number turnout I can use for a modern set up? 6 for yards and 8 for main?

[joed2323]

#6 is about the smallest i would go running modern.

I know of a few ppl who run modern and have #4 turnouts in the yard and have no issues. You gotta go slow through the yard anyways so thats why #4 would work if a must.

But i would recommend #6-#8 turnouts. You can use #6 on main also. #8 look nicer though going through them with bigger equipment.

[rdemattio91]

Originally Posted by joed2323

#6 is about the smallest i would go running modern.

I know of a few ppl who run modern and have #4 turnouts in the yard and have no issues. You gotta go slow through the yard anyways so thats why #4 would work if a must.

But i would recommend #6-#8 turnouts. You can use #6 on main also. #8 look nicer though going through them with bigger equipment.

Thanks alot, how do I know what is #6 and #8 tho? The only turnouts that show the # are "Custom" turnouts, I wanted to use the remote turnouts and they dont show the #, all the show is the radius of the turn out.

[cv_acr]

redemattio91: are you referring to "CustomLine" turnouts in an Atlas track library in the program?

The Atlas Custom Line turnouts come in specific numbers (#6, etc.)

The old 18" radius-equivalent Atlas Snap-Switches come out to roughly approximately a #4.5. They're not designed around a particular frog angle, but the replacement radius of curved sectional track that they fit in to.

The frog # by the way, represents the angle of the frog as a ratio of the distance between the diverging rails and the distance from the frog. i.e. for a #6 frog, after crossing at the frog, the rails will be 1" apart at 6" away from the frog if both routes were to continue straight. The higher the frog number, the longer the switch and the broader the curves through the diverging route of the switch.

[LoudMusic]

Originally Posted by zoegraf

I'm of the mindset of "less is more".

Here is my last layout of 11 X 13. My next will be with less track.

A shelf layout can be very interesting and fun to run with minimal sidings and destinations.

Have you considered modelling a branch line?

I'd go for more than a radius of 22; you have the room for it and could get away with 32 inch radius and trains look nice on a radius like that.

You do not need a lot of lumber to make a shelf layout. You can put a 12 inch shelf on very strong brackets and it won't be intrusive on the room especially if you have it at chin height. This way you can still use the room as a guest room or office. Check out the pics of my past layout.

Here are links to my old narrow shelf layout to give you an idea what can be put into a shelf as narrow as 9 to 12 inches:

http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/f...=scenes+narrow

http://www.modelrailroadforums.com/f...yout+continued

I have thought a lot about Zoegraf's layout and it has to be one of the most space-friendly layouts I've seen. Excellent simplistic design.

[cv_acr]

Originally Posted by LoudMusic

I have thought a lot about Zoegraf's layout and it has to be one of the most space-friendly layouts I've seen. Excellent simplistic design.

Yes. Not cluttered, and very "railroady" with a rural branch line feel.

[rdemattio91]

Originally Posted by cv_acr

redemattio91: are you referring to "CustomLine" turnouts in an Atlas track library in the program?

The Atlas Custom Line turnouts come in specific numbers (#6, etc.)

The old 18" radius-equivalent Atlas Snap-Switches come out to roughly approximately a #4.5. They're not designed around a particular frog angle, but the replacement radius of curved sectional track that they fit in to.

The frog # by the way, represents the angle of the frog as a ratio of the distance between the diverging rails and the distance from the frog. i.e. for a #6 frog, after crossing at the frog, the rails will be 1" apart at 6" away from the frog if both routes were to continue straight. The higher the frog number, the longer the switch and the broader the curves through the diverging route of the switch.

Thanks alot, that explains it alot better. So whats the difference between an atlas custom line turnout and a atlas remote snap switch? Besides the #.

[railfan]

My N scale atlas remote snap switches have a built-in electric actuator that uses a momentary current that moves the switch points. There is also a mechanical trip pin you can push with your finger to change the switch manually.

The snap switches don't look very realistic because of the black box that houses the actuator.....but mine function very well. The custom line switches require the use of manual ground throws or switch motors, (bought separately).....and they look more prototypical.

When I say mine work well.....I'm only using the trip pin manually. I've yet to try the remote hook up.



Mike

[TheGloriousTachikoma]

Originally Posted by rdemattio91

Thanks alot, that explains it alot better. So whats the difference between an atlas custom line turnout and a atlas remote snap switch? Besides the #.

As mentioned, the snap switches have a curve through them to match 18" (and more recently) 22" radius curves. the problem is that this creates a very sharp diverging route that is unsuitable for anything trying to be realistic. It simply comes down to the #4 and #6 turnouts being gentler curves than the snap switches.

[rdemattio91]

so I need to purchase a switch machine. How hard is it to install these machines?