Track Bed Foam vs Cork

[68 Camaro]

I have had excellent success with cork sheets that are used for lining drawers (don't laugh). The profile is approximately 3/32" to 1/8" thick (roughly N gauge thickness) and comes in a large roll. The down side is that you have to cut for curves, but I simply placed the sheet under the curved track section and then traced the curve onto the cork. It does come with a adhesive backing, but I used an adhesive caulk to keep it in place. I purchased it at Home Depot and is great for yards and siding where you want a lower profile roadbed.

Larry

[RexHea]

Jacob, that doesn't sound typical of WS foam roadbed as it is more dense than that and with only a moderate downward give. I've had it on my present layout for 6 years (some ballasted and some not) and have not experienced any of those problems. That includes sitting on it, leaning on it, and just plain abuse during layout work (not intentionally, of course) There are a few other brand names out there that have been tried by others with terrible results. Maybe that is what you were dealing with or even homemade.

Ron, I don't use caulking, but once you ballast and add glue to it, that track is not going to move. In fact, you will have to dilute it with water to loosen it up...or use a hammer

[ICG/SOU]

Make sure it is ADHESIVE caulk. I used the wrong kind, non-adhesive, and it was too easy to pull up a few days later.

[rem37411]

I made a switch and am going to use elmers to adhere the roadbed to the foam table and then I am just going to use nails all over the track until I ballast then pull all the nails up then. Am I correct in thinking that the ballast is usually laid and then coated with diluted elmers anyway?

[UP2CSX]

Ron, that's correct. Just make sure you pull the nails out carefully after you ballast lest you damage the ties or ballast.

[RexHea]

Originally Posted by rem37411

I made a switch and am going to use elmers to adhere the roadbed to the foam table and then I am just going to use nails all over the track until I ballast then pull all the nails up then. Am I correct in thinking that the ballast is usually laid and then coated with diluted elmers anyway?

Now that's how I did mine, except I left my nails in...no particular reason, but I don't believe anyone has every noticed. Elmers white glue is plenty strong enough and a lot cheaper than yellow glue. In fact, you don't need but a couple of lines of glue under the roadbed.

[Neopuron]

I still have my nails in and I am not using a foam board on top of my MDF 4x8 sheet. Basically its MDF board, WS foam roadbed, then track. Only thing I had to watch out for was going too deep with the nail, that would cause the rail tie to have a slight bend in it. Other then that I think both the foam road bed and track is held in place very well.

I just finished my bus wiring and managed to wire up 10 feeder wires running from the bus to the track. Used solid 14g copper for the bus that is running to my DC power pack. The feeders are 22g solid copper. I managed to get the current flowing through the tracks the other night and did some test runs with my little SD-12 and my GP38 and it ran very well. Went through all the turnouts in both forward and reverse to only one problem... (forgot to turn the switch for the direction it was coming)

Anyway I was happy with the results of it all. Now I need to wire up my snap switches. I know its going to look a little tacky as I didn't get the under the table or ground throws. They are just basic Atlas #6 remote snap switches. But since its my first layout I am ok with it.

I have 5 in all right now. Might have to add 2 more if I am going to be able to finish my storage yard. Right now the track plan is very simple, outer loop and a inner loop. With the extra switch coming off the inner loop that will lead into the yard.

All in all I think its pretty good considering the space limitations I have in the room. Hopefully we can upgrade to the bigger house in the future. Then I can move from the guest bedroom, to a TRAINROOM!

Derek

[alexlileys90]

Hi my name is Alex
I was wondering if anyone has used felt for road beds? It wouldn't dry out or shrink and it offers weed popping through the ballast on sidings. I was thinking for my next layout that I would try somthing new.

[35tac]

Latex clear caulk works finedries somewhat quickly and works fine. Spread is and use a roller and you are in business. No problem with ballast either.

Wayne

[Cjcrescent]

Originally Posted by alexlileys90

Hi my name is Alex
I was wondering if anyone has used felt for road beds? It wouldn't dry out or shrink and it offers weed popping through the ballast on sidings. I was thinking for my next layout that I would try somthing new.

Welcome to the forums, Alex. I hope that you will learn from us and we learn from you.

While the idea of this sounds fine, it may even work, my concern would be the fibers that look like weeds, getting into motors and gears of a loco. My fear may be baseless, but doing repairs on others locos, you'd be surprised at the stuff I've pulled out of gearboxes and motors. IMHO, Felt fibers just sounds like a problem waiting to happen.