Caboose Industries ground throws

[WC3026]

I did a search and didnt find what I was looking for. I am looking for information on the ground throws because I think I am going put those on my layout instead of using manual ones on the fascia. Where I am going to put them is only a foot wide so reaching them will be no problem. If anyone has pictures or know where there is a vid of them (I looked on You tube) so I can see how they work and what not that would be great!!!!!! Also for those that have used them which are better the low ones or the high ones that look like a real switch stand?

[TheGloriousTachikoma]

The low ones I imagine would be more durable just from the standpoint that they're lower profile. They work alright, but you have to keep them clean. No glue residue, and as little ballast in the mech as possible. The points have to be free as well otherwise you risk breaking the unit itself.

But personally I'm not fond of them. To me, operating a layout should involve as little touching of the sceniced layout as possible. I'd rather use Atlas under-table machines and hardware store toggles in the fascia. But they are simple and usually can be adapted to most uses. IIRC, Model Railroader Magazine's 'Red Wing Central' used CI ground throws at the very edge of the table and ran wire actuating rods under the roadbed and scenery to the turnouts. Actually not a terrible idea.

[WC3026]

Originally Posted by TheGloriousTachikoma

IIRC, Model Railroader Magazine's 'Red Wing Central' used CI ground throws at the very edge of the table and ran wire actuating rods under the roadbed and scenery to the turnouts. Actually not a terrible idea.

Thats kinda what I was thinking of doing so they are all out along the edge of the layout and easy to get to. What would I use as the "rod" to get back out to the switch? I know a lot use piano wire but I dont know where I can get it at (dont know if my LHS carries it).

[Will landers]

I'm gona use several C I manual throws on my layout to make it more hands on and fun.

[montanan]

In the lower right of the first picture is one type, and in the background is another type, shown to the left in the second picture in which the little arm you can see is rotated 180 degrees. This second type has a signal stand that can be inserted and will operate when the switch is thrown. This is a more delicate throw. I did not put the signal stand on these throws.

[TheGloriousTachikoma]

Originally Posted by WC3026

Thats kinda what I was thinking of doing so they are all out along the edge of the layout and easy to get to. What would I use as the "rod" to get back out to the switch? I know a lot use piano wire but I dont know where I can get it at (dont know if my LHS carries it).

What would also probably be a good idea is to lay down brass or plastic tube for the wire to pass through to protect it. I dunno where to get it, but if you're using a guide, guitar string would probably work.

[gregamer]

I've used them, they work well. My kids like them better than pushing the points (Peco style) or flipping a toggle switch. I've only used the low ground throws, so can't compare to the high stands. I like to put a nail or something to stop the handles from falling all the way to the ground, otherwise it's kind of a hassle to pick up the handle.

[trailrider]

I use the low ones where I don't have switch machines or Peco turnouts with the spring snap-over. I have a couple in a yard area where I store some locomotives. Rather than wiring an on-off toggle switch where a turnout will connect power to one spur or the other, I will leave the lever in the vertical position, so the points of the turnout aren't touching either stock rail. This effectively cuts off power to both spurs. Can't do that with most of the other switch stands.

[choops]

Originally Posted by gregamer

I like to put a nail or something to stop the handles from falling all the way to the ground, otherwise it's kind of a hassle to pick up the handle.

Great tip. I am going to try this.
Thanks
Steve

[Rico]

Great tip Greg, I get people pushing them down all the time.
I also paint the "handle tip" green or red to show the position, makes switching a little easier.