Dioramas

[zoegraf]

Originally Posted by rlundy90

Startin to look really good, Zoe. The bits of wood in amonst the rocks look great. The scene is starting to really come to life. Great work, Ron.

Thanks Ron. I'm so eager to get on with the diorama. Help from forum members and experimenting is indeed bringing it to life. This is a great learning experience for me and look forward to applying it to my next layout. Man! I sure miss my old layout and can't wait to start on another.

[zoegraf]

I finally got the fishplates and put them on today. I find them much nicer and fit better than the Details West ones I had.
I will start painting the rails soon, but have to figure out how to do so without loosing the detail on the fish plates. I don't have an airbrush so I might think of doing thinned layers. I have some Floquil markers, but I'm a bit nervous about them.

[waltr]

I don't think that even Floquil straight from the bottle will be a problem with hiding the fish-plate details. Attach one to a small piece of extra track and give it a try.

[zoegraf]

Originally Posted by waltr

I don't think that even Floquil straight from the bottle will be a problem with hiding the fish-plate details. Attach one to a small piece of extra track and give it a try.

Well, I got brave and used the Floquil pen and I love it! Nice and thin. It took me only 40 seconds to do two feet of track. It does need another coat though because some primer is showing through especially near the the bottom edge of the rail. Now I'm wondering how long should I wait before the next coat.

[waltr]

Looking good.
Yea, there's nothing like just going for it and then having it turn out.

I'd wait 24 hours or at least over night before recoating.
If the paint isn't completely set the second coat could loosen and pull of the first coat.

Now I'm going to have to get a bunch of those fish plates for the track on my layout.
I'm already planning to use Proto87 Store's 150% scale spikes. I tried the 100% scale spikes are almost too small to see and make a difference. The 150% looked good.

How did you attach the plates to the rail? CA glue?

[Rico]

Very nice Z!
I'd wait for 24 as well, I've had paint lift before.
Are you going to make some cuts where the joints would be? (just the top of the rail)

[zoegraf]

Originally Posted by waltr

Looking good.
Yea, there's nothing like just going for it and then having it turn out.

I'd wait 24 hours or at least over night before recoating.
If the paint isn't completely set the second coat could loosen and pull of the first coat.

Now I'm going to have to get a bunch of those fish plates for the track on my layout.
I'm already planning to use Proto87 Store's 150% scale spikes. I tried the 100% scale spikes are almost too small to see and make a difference. The 150% looked good.

How did you attach the plates to the rail? CA glue?

I used Loctite Super Glue.

Let me know, if you can, how those 150% spikes work and how you put them in.

[zoegraf]

Originally Posted by Rico

Very nice Z!
I'd wait for 24 as well, I've had paint lift before.
Are you going to make some cuts where the joints would be? (just the top of the rail)

Now that's something I was thinking about, but don't know how to go about it.

Tomorrow I will apply the second coat then later I can get on with the ballasting.

[waltr]

A very thin saw to cut rail joints. I use a jeweler's saw to cut the frog gaps in my hand-laid turn-outs. The blade is 0.010 inch thick.

I would have staggered where the fish plates are on the rails instead of having them directly across from each other.

I did buy sample packs of Proto87's spikes and tried them out. I used a small pair of needle nose pliers to hold and insert the spikes. This isn't to hard to do. The spikes are photo etched and are attached to the 'spree' at the tips. So I bend the head end away then grab it with the pliers. A couple of twists breaks the spike free. Just remember which way the head points and align the pliers with the head to the rail and push the spike into the wood tie up against the rail base. Then release the spike, close the pliers and use the flat end to push the spike down with the head catching on the rail base.

[zoegraf]

Originally Posted by waltr

A very thin saw to cut rail joints. I use a jeweler's saw to cut the frog gaps in my hand-laid turn-outs. The blade is 0.010 inch thick.

I would have staggered where the fish plates are on the rails instead of having them directly across from each other.

I did buy sample packs of Proto87's spikes and tried them out. I used a small pair of needle nose pliers to hold and insert the spikes. This isn't to hard to do. The spikes are photo etched and are attached to the 'spree' at the tips. So I bend the head end away then grab it with the pliers. A couple of twists breaks the spike free. Just remember which way the head points and align the pliers with the head to the rail and push the spike into the wood tie up against the rail base. Then release the spike, close the pliers and use the flat end to push the spike down with the head catching on the rail base.

Thanks for the info!

I was thinking of staggering the fishplates, but only saw them un-staggered in some photos I used as a reference. Oh well, will do it on the next diorama.