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#1
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I have an athearn four axle and am having some grounding problems. Tested the motor (this is a new motor) and it worked fine. Installed decoder and went for a test run, I noticed that when the frame rocks it stops and then goes again. I put a jumper wire from the track and it worked awesome. I know where the problem is but don't know how to fix it! The problem is where the truck meets the frame where the swiper area is for the ground.... anyone got any ideas
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#2
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Step 1, remove the trucks and clean both the top plate of the truck where is meets the bolster and also clean the bolster itself. Either surface may have corroded on you or,,,,
(#2) You can solder pickup wiring to the truck frames (after removing the plastic side frames) to join front and rear pickups and then to the decoder from there.
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#3
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Ok thanks Karl I will try that. when you go to solder from the truck do you put it on the outside piece that is bare metal?
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#4
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Quote:
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#5
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Well i did the ground jumper wire and took care of the problem. now I have it running it runs good but when i put the body on i can hear a grinding sound, i know it isnt a wire cause they are all tied to the top of the motor. could this motor maybe be bad too no matter what i put the start volts at it never wants to move then it will jump and move.
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#6
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Quote:
It appears to be an electrical issue. Do brushes wear out? Would it be worth buying replacements? I trimmed back the springs per tune up article. I've also heard this is typical for Athean BB SW engines. Sorry I didn't provide any answers, just wanted you to know, you're not alone
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#7
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Quote:
![]() Could be an issue with the motor, but there are a few other things to consider. First and formost, is this just the common Athearn growl? SW's seem to have it the worst, followed by F units. Why? The driveshaft coupler is partly to blame. quite unstable,hence, noisey. Some of the noise is also from the motor, its worse if its not mounted securely. Some of the noise is also from the sintered iron wheels. If you want quiet, I recommend a set of nickel silver wheels, a can motor, and some bits from Northwest Short Line to make new driveshafts from. As far as the jumping , try adjusting the start voltage and the pulse width , you may be able to minimize the noise and the jerkiness |
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#8
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well right now I have the start volts at like 50 or so I just got it so sent athearn an email so I have to figure out what i did with the dang box to get them the stock number. Maybe they will replace the motor who knows. I know its an older one even though i just bought it because I have been looking at buying it for the past three years surprised no one ever bought it. If any one is reading this and might have the same one the road number is 7824 and I need the stock number off the box!!!!!
Last edited by WC3026; 08-21-2012 at 10:13 AM. |
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#9
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When I turned 50 my brother gave me a SW 1500 PWR CN 7824. For whatever reason I final got around to opening the box tonight (about to turn 66) so you can see I am really good at putting things off. In any case by sheer bizarreness your post came up as I was looking for info on 1500. Since I already have the box in hand. Number above Canadian National is 3105 (may be USA #) under sticker and 3934 (maybe Can#) on sticker. 35.75$ Made in U.S.A. How weird is that. Runs like a charm, much better than the new 70$ made in China version everyone on this forem seems to be having. Hope this helps Roland in Canada.
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#10
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This is kinda OT, but same engine. Anyone know where to get replacement truck frames for these Athearn switchers? Mine doesn't have any and I would like to replace them.
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Steve HO scaler, Minecraft Traincrafter |
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